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monkeystripe

Solex
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Everything posted by monkeystripe

  1. Hey I'm in Ann Arbor, and can pick up. do you have a passenger side door I can snaggle? how much?
  2. Exactly to stock specs. Generally to really blueprint, you take a bunch of unused motors rip them down until you have enough parts that are exactly to spec or a little under and machine the under parts to spec and put 1 motor back together, that is exactly as it should have left the factory.
  3. I have to take exception to the statement blueprinting is a made up word. When an engine is designed, the blueprints lay out the exact measurements for a specific engine to run at its maximum potential. (in stock form) However, when an engine leaves the factory there is a range of exceptable tolerances that pass QC. The process of blueprinting is going back to the factory blueprints for an engine, and matching them to the exact ten thousandth of an inch for all parts. It reduces wear and increases horesepower, as this is how the engine was exactly designed to run. Your decreases in wear and increases in horsepower will only be marginal, but thats what blueprinting is. The real reason anyone ever blueprinted an engine is in the old days of NASCAR when you actually had to produce 500 of a car to run it. So any advantage you could gain in those areas was seen as a great asset.
  4. I will guess that you meshed an old style switch with a new style switch and as a result, you have a crossed connection inside the switch. As I am sure you know, you have now turn signals without the hazard switch. The worn out switch thing is very common. Here was my quick fix before I get a new one. Push button in, stick tooth picks around the edge, cover with clear two part apoxy and there you go. Once dry pull out or break off toothpicks.
  5. not 166 miles as stated in the headline but 166,000 miles as stated lower down. Why would anybody be that excited about a 166,000 mile car?
  6. You would have much more siginificant leaks when under load when the system is pressurized. Also you would have water in your oil or vice versa. It has to be a leak in the cooling system somewhere that is running down the side of the head. As a somewhat side note- I always found that coolant pooling by the starter is a sign of overheating, as when it spews, thats where it ends up. Are you using the stock temp gauge or do you have a more accurate aftermarket mechanical one? Things to do- check for water vapor in the exhaust, do a compression check, a leak down if you have the capibilities, tighten all hose clamps, drain your cooling system, park it on a hill and put a hose in the the radiator and try to isolate the issue. I would guess that if you had a cracked water jacket in the head, the issue would much more apparent with a pressurized system. I Doubt the short block water jacket is the issue either. Good luck
  7. Come spring when it melts up here and I can get the '02 out of storage I will take the actual measurements and post them, so we can put this to bed. I too, have seen this bit come and go without a diffinitive answer.
  8. yes, I agree, I didnt have the numbers in front of me, so I just cut to the chase of the concept. I would say however, if you have points, that running a blue coil without the resistor at all is a recipe for burning points faster. my setup- flame thrower with pertronix for 2 years now with no problems.
  9. get a pertronix and ditch the resistor all together. The point of the resistor is to provide you with full 12v+ at start up, and slowly cut back to 6v+, to keep your points from burning up. As the resistor is open at startup anyway, jumping it at start up won't do anything that it isn't doing for itself already.
  10. looking like it just came from the paint shop. It was yellow and white and it was in the back of pick up truck, outside of Ypsilanti Michigan.
  11. I wouldnt say that a smaller intake port helps mix fuel, however, the casting marks that are removed in the porting process do help. there are two contradictory schools of thought when it comes to porting heads. First is that the sand casting bumps mix fuel and air better. The second is that smooth runnners flow better, causing a more linear charge, and thus more air fuel in each pump of the engine. So take your pick- better mixed ari fuel or larger charge, but not both. the heads for the m10 engine are fairly efficient th begin with. If you want to port the best thing to do is a intake match port, and then decrease the inside radius of the intake runnner and exhaust runner. Prety much stuff you can do yourself.
  12. ohhh, the floor mount location. The reason I did mine is the passenger side floor rusted out and I welded in new steel. As a precaution, because it wouldnt be as rigid as the original piece, I put the A frame in, to my surprise it made a huge difference in the way it cornered. If you can do an X between the seatbelt mounting locations and the fender wells, I would think that provide a strong additional mid car tie in for the cage.
  13. high on the B pillar? I dunno, but triangles are strong, the more triangles, the more frame strength.
  14. I welded an A frame around the tranny tunnel where the back seat used to be for torsional strength. I also made a pretty nice catch can for the head vent with a white fuel cell, a fire extinguisher bracket, and a head vent filter for a chevy 350. I also made my own upper rear shock mounts by buying some urethane parts for a honda and putting them on the lathe. shaved the gas filler and moved it into the trunk. shaved the rear side markers, shaved the panel seams in the front and the back, shaved the rear bumper.
  15. 1) take your battery in to be checked 2) check your battery ground, body to block groud, etc 3) look for the hidden short, which your first stop should be to look where the wires pass through the firewall. over 30 + years the rubber grommet (obviously) disintergrates and allows the wires to rub, causing + side ground. Especially check the wire that is the lead for the charging warning light, its a stupid rare flaw in the 2002, but when that bulb burns out, your alternator wont charge your battery. and of course, you cant tell that its burned out because a fault in the charging system is indicated by that bulb.
  16. set the timing, set the valve clearance and change to oil with a 20w 50 before you do anything else. if has been sitting that long your oil may have turned to gunk and glogged the screen in the oil pump, especially if there was any water/coolant in the engine, which will make your valves chatter like crazy. I would blame the dizzy before anything else, but you should do as much prep as possible before starting an egine that has been sitting that long.
  17. I used to do the eight o'clock trick and then press into the filler neck with my knee, until I did like the other guy and shaved the gas door. works much better from inside the trunk, plus you look cool when you have to pop the trunk to fill the tank. very race car chi-chi.
  18. I just welded a tab into the linkage to do the same thing. no fab required. cut little metal tab, weld, grind, install. worked great too...
  19. I dont know about their 5 spd kit, but I bought the Lynx kit back when they had it, and as the website said it would be custom jetted for my set up. Well what I got was a stock dcoe, and when I callled they told me tough luck. so basically when I thought about buying their battery relocation kit, I just looked at their picture on line and fabbed my own. I would not give them $1 ever again, they need a lesson in F*ck the hell off. (No I really am not bitter)
  20. I tried that once until I caught a resonance @ 6k (sounded like a bell) and the exhaust system shattered (literally) at 95 miles an hour. A resonator should just be a tube with a spiral inside, to align your exhaust pulses. it should in reality increase your exhaust gas exit speed. And of course keep your exhaust from 'sploding.
  21. You can do it without the tool, I have done it many times you just need to (carefully) take the whole thing apart at once. make a "handle" to rotate the camshaft and remove the rockers, and camshaft in unison. It's slow but cheap. Never had a problem with any of the heads I have disassembled this way.
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