Grover

Thanks Andrew. If you are suggesting that IE will sell them individually, I'll give a call tomorrow.

I have a full set of stainless brake lines on my car. All are in fine fettle except for one that had some abrasion on it due to an error on my part. I'd like to replace just the one rather than pay another $100 for a full set. Anybody have a good source for individual lines of the right length and size?

The guibo is no more than 2 or 3 years old so I don't think that is the issue. My thinking was that if the tranny was not properly centered in the tunnel, this could result in poor alignment of the tranny to driveshaft.

Thanks guys. The only sign of ill side effects I see is that my guibo is showing cracks after just being in there about two years. Whether this is a direct result of the transmission sitting off center or not, I don't know. I will follow the advice to see if I can confirm that the output shaft and driveshaft are perfectly aligned, and see where to go from there.

For as long as I've had my car, the transmission has sat slightly off center in the tunnel. Basically, it sits about 1/2" closer to the driver's side of the tunnel than the passenger side. I'm in the midst of replacing the guibo and a couple of other odds and ends down there, and I'd like to see if I can resolve this issue at the same time. The motor mounts are new and this hasn't changed how the tranny/engine sit, and I don't see any opportunities to twist the motor via elongated mounting holes for the motor mounts or anything. Is there a way to ever-so-slightly twist how the motor sits in its mounts? I can "pull" the tranny centered via the mounting bracket, but given that it isn't where it wants to sit naturally, I'm inclined to think this will just cause wear somewhere else. Thanks in advance.

Sorry. I should have mentioned I have Volvo Girling calipers up front.

I'm a big fan of Hawk HPS pads for the type of use you are talking about. I previously tried Textar and PBR MetalMasters and was disappointed in both. I have Ferodo shoes in back from Ireland and they mate perfectly with the Hawks in my opinion.

Colin. To be clear, when on the dyno we did almost nothing other than hard acceleration tuning. Most of the lower portions of the map were done by me over the past few months, and then Rob and I did some around town driving (with him driving and me working the laptop) to get a couple of other niggling issues dialed in. Each and every portion of the map is not "dyno" tuned. Regarding the advance at idle, I've tinkered with it quite a bit, and this is the best I've been able to get it to idle. With ITBs the idle KPA is higher than when I was using a common plenum, and I've had to raise idle rpm by a little bit. Right now it's idling around 1050 or so at high 40s kpa. and remarkably smooth. In contrast, with the common plenum, I used to find the best idle around 100rpm lower and if I recall correctly kpa was in the low 40s.

Colin. I set up those bins ages ago, having one that low was something to do with initial cranking, can't even remember any more honestly.

Colin. Here's where we netted out on the Spark Advance Table. We tried adjusting both fuel and spark advance to see if we could budge the hp and torque a bit higher into the rpms, but neither did the trick. As such, we backed things back down to where there was no additional gain, but a greater margin of safety for the motor. We also tried it both with and without the airbox and saw no more than a 1hp or ft/lb torque either way.

Conkitchen, I was thinking the same thing.

I struggled with this for some time while running both 195's and 205's. I did camber plates, rolled fender lips, etc... Ultimately I just accepted that I had the wrong offset wheels, replaced them, and haven't looked back. From the photos, it looks to me like this may be the case for you also as numerous people run 195's with no issue.

Thanks guys. Yeah, I figured I could force it to close tighter by using your method Tom, but wasn't sure if there were supposed to be splines on that lever that have just been rounded off. Can you confirm this one way or the other? And thanks for the photo Andrew but I'm going to try to avoid welding it if possible. Curious to know if that is the "correct" resting angle for the lever, all the way up at the top like that.

After initally thinking it was the throttle cable that was slipping (I don't have the stock rod as I'm not running carbs any more) I confirmed that it's actually the lever which is spinning on the splined nub protruding from the side of the pedal box. Even with the bolt on the lever fully tightened, there's still enough slop that the lever can slip under pressure. So, which part needs replacing (assuming it can't safetly be fixed with the existing parts)? There are still some subtle splines on the nub of the pedal rod, but I can't see any splines for it to mate to on the inner circumference of the lever itself. Are there supposed to be splines on there or is it purely a friction fit?

It's running at about 12.4:1 at WOT at 100kpa

The corner weighting was done with an empty car. It honestly came out of Rob's desire to see how it differed vs. a Datsun 510, which apparently weighed 2,200 from the factory. I claimed that this was also the weight of an 02 and Rob called BS and busted out the scales in good fun. Turns out I was off by a bit, but it was a fun exercise nonetheless. Palindrome, my battery is in the trunk. MikeB, I agree that a cam is likely the next logical place to look if I want more power. The car drives very smoothly around town and idles very smoothly too at about 1050rpm, so I think I've got some wiggle room to go to a bigger cam and still keep it relatively comfortable on the streets (which is, realistically, where I drive it the most.) Mlytle, here's a graph showing just the first and last pulls we did. You can see that in the first one that Rob aborted the run around 4k rpm as he could see that it was running too lean and also heard some indications of slight detonation. However, you can see that to that point we were running about 5pts lower in hp and about 10pts lower in torque. By the end of the day, we'd removed about 2 degrees of advance on average at the top, and increased the fuel by about 15% in the same areas.

After installing Megasquirt four years ago, and ITB's about 6 months ago, I finally got around to putting the car on a dyno today. I'd spent quite a bit of time tuning the around town driveability to where I was happy with it, but never felt fully confident to do WOT pulls without being on a dyno with someone much more experienced making sure that I wasn't risking detonation or something. Today I took the car down to see Rob Fuller, the owner of Z Car Garage in San Jose. I've gotten to know Rob via the Z that some friends and I run in Lemons, and he is the epitome of an enthusiast shop owner. I could swear that at some point he underwent some experimental surgery and had his veins and arteries replaced with a Z wiring harness. Rob welcomed my 02 with open arms, although he couldn't refrain from a few kind hearted jabs about 510's beating 02's back in the day. Long story short, we hooked the car up onto his DynoJet and made a few passes. Rob diagnosed that I was actually running too much advance in the upper areas of the spark map, but was too lean on fuel in the same areas. We tweaked the files a number of times between runs, and ultimately did a nice pull at the end that showed peak HP at 131.6 at 5,500rpm, and peak torque of 139.3 at about 4,600rpm, but a pretty nice torque curve all the way from down at 2,500rpm. I'd guess this roughs out to something like 150hp and 160ft/lb torque at the crank, but I know it's a bit fuzzy to back calculate such things. As a point of reference, my car has a 2.3L stroker, 292 came (I think) and 9.5:1 compression, with 45mm TWM ITB's. While there Rob was also curious to see how much the car weighed, so we put it on his corner scales (another first for me) and it looked pretty darned good. Total weight of smack on 2,300lbs (about 8 gallons of gas and a spare tire in the rear), with perfect 50-50 side to side weight, and 53-47 front to rear weight bias. All in all, a fantastic day of fun!!!

Very cool. While I live in California now, my grandparents were from Lincolnshire so I spent a lot of time in the area when I was younger. My brother and I were toying with making a pilgrimage back to the area next year and possibly tie it in with the historic races at Donington Park. Have you been to that event? Worth making a visit to?

I have a bizarre happening I need some insight on. About a month ago I replaced my slave cylinder, and three times since then a strange thing has happened. The circumstances are consistent: 1. First time the car has been driven in a few hours, if not days. 2. First movement of the car is in reverse, and I'm basically hardly even giving any gas, it's just reversing via the clutch being almost completely released with a touch of gas. (I'm probably going no more than 3 or 4mph) 3. When reversing out of my driveway slowly, the clutch pedal will all of a sudden feel rock hard, as though I couldn't depress it if I wanted to. Each time, instinctively, I've hit the brakes and at that very same moment the clutch pedal goes in no problem. This has never happened in a forward gear, and it has also not happened ever in reverse other than on the three starts mentioned above. Very weird. Any guesses as to what could be going on?

I'd missed the last two Swap & Shows, so was really glad to be able to attend today. Once again, the weather was perfect, and there were lots of very nice cars on show. At least to me, it didn't seem noticeably down on attendance given the overlap with Bimmerfest. Was nice to catch up with a bunch of "old" 02 friends as well as meet a few new ones. Thanks as always to the organizers for putting on such a nice community gathering. I also scored in the raffle!!! I saw so many folks taking photos while strolling the show that I actually took very few, so hopefully others will add some on. Until next year..

Here are some photos of the re-covered dash that Chris at Only02 did for me. I know some folks don't care for the French seams, but I'm really happy with it, and am quite impressed with the workmanship. I also recently put in nice fresh wool square weave carpet which I'm loving.

I just installed mine this past weekend that I got recovered by Chris Willit at Only02. I am VERY impressed with the workmanship. Will take some photos in the next couple of days and post them up.

Your attitude is what sucks.

Thanks guys. Time permitting, I'll give it a shot today.

I need to replace my motor mounts but don't have an engine hoist. Is this possible? Maybe using a jack to lift and/or hold the motor? Can it be done well without draining the cooling system as suggested in the Blue shop manual? Thanks.