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Steve73tii

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Everything posted by Steve73tii

  1. Steve73tii
    Email me if you want to meet in Buffalo or for recommendations. I live here, as does at least one other 02-er. My wife is an erstwhile New-Yorker and recommends Frank on 2nd Ave. in the East Village for good, inexpensive Italian. She'll try and think of some other spots for you or ask friends in the city since she only gets back there once or twice a year. Steve
  2. Steve73tii
    You can also parenthise keywords you DO want by omitting the "minus" sign as used in the previous post. bmw (2002, tii, 2000, touring) will give you anything with "bmw" and any of the other four words. You can use "*" as a wildcard. 325i* will give you 325, 325i, 325is, 325ix, etc. Double quotes will give you an exact phrase with no extra words between the enclosed keywords. And if you want parts but not cars or bikes, search only in "ebay motors"->"parts and accessories" and maybe then in "car and truck parts" or "vintage car and truck parts". Hope this helps, Steve
  3. Steve73tii
    From a little recent experience with the stock setup and the faq / CCA tech tips, my guess would be you probably want a stock-like connection to the gearbox. There is a short bracket bolted to the back of the trannie then a separate ~8-10" bracket attached to that through 2 rubber shock mounts. The downpipe or header is attached to the long bracket with a U-bolt. For a larger diameter header, it would be fairly easy to modify the longer bracket or fab a new one and use a bigger U-bolt. Also, I don't know if it's possible to flare the end of your header or weld on a flange, but being able to detach the exhaust at the transmission is a huge help in accessing the driveshaft/guibo and shift linkage. Just my $.02. Steve
  4. Steve73tii
    There's a stethoscope somewhere in my basement if that helps. SA
  5. Steve73tii
    Sorry, just thought I'd throw that in there ;-) Steve
  6. Steve73tii
    Yes, very collectible, but only the rare "2002i" model and only the coupe, not the more common 2-door sedan ;-)
  7. Steve73tii
    Yeah, that seems like good stuff. Haven't road-tested it, but I just painted my exhaust manifold with it. I don't know about burning it off, though -- it's supposed to be heat resistant to 1400 deg. F. and the directions call for curing it at 500 deg. before a 2nd coat. Nothing you don't know already I guess... Good luck. Steve
  8. Steve73tii
    I understand the rear horsehair pads are NLA, but I once went to a salvage yard in Berkeley called Bay Motor Wrecking that would trim the pads and/or upholstery from a 320i to fit the 2002. The upholstery is a little obvious, with rolled edges, but since you have that already... May or may not work for you, but it came to mind for some reason. Steve
  9. Steve73tii
    Brian -- Thanks. Email sent. Steve
  10. Steve73tii
    Thanks Rob, that's how I got the old ones off, but I want to finish tightening the new ones without gouging them up too much. And for whatever reason (anal retentive?), I want to use a torque wrench. Steve
  11. Steve73tii
    Does any one have the spanner that used to be included with the Bilstein strut inserts? I squirreled mine away in a move a couple months ago and I'm going to go crazy if I waste any more time looking for it. I just need to borrow one for about 30 minutes (+shipping time unless you're nearby and almost nobody is). Will pay postage, bribes, trade parts, whatever sounds reasonable. Email me. Steve
  12. Steve73tii
    Dude -- Are you talking about paint code 003 or would that be another "girlfriend" 2002 like the Diana? And three from which left? Hey, wait a minute... have I just been trolled or something? SA
  13. Steve73tii
    Kris, Nathan -- If you need a "Plan B", you're welcome to use my driveway. My tii's not leaving the garage soon and the "white beast" can stay in the street for all I care. (Nathan -- we'll talk... see you tomorrow.) Steve
  14. Steve73tii
    BLUNT -- Thanks. I took some measurements and your tray in the picture looks to be 11" long which is the same as my regular 2002 battery tray and 1" longer than the tii. Thanks anyway for the response. Steve
  15. Steve73tii
    Thanks 02fanatic -- I didn't know there were other differences in the core support. No telling what mix of features I have there then, 'cause I have a non-original nose panel. Whoever replaced the nose probably hogged out the battery opening at that time to make it work with the short battery tray. Maybe another reason to cover that area with the battery? About trunking the battery, that would probably be "Plan C" after under the seat. It makes sense to me, but I like the trunk space and don't really need or want a shock tower brace. I agree with you -- I like stock even though the battery's a headache. Steve
  16. Steve73tii
    Wow that was fast! All I managed to do at work in that time was tread water. (Uhh, sorry boss...) From the pic, that may be the right one. It is slightly different than my weld-in tray and my non-tii one, so I will measure when I get home. Steve
  17. Steve73tii
    Hi Blunt -- I would be greatly indebted if you have the right tray. Pics would help a lot. Would it be possible to send one with a ruler in the picture? (Not trusting my guestimation skills lately.) Steve
  18. Steve73tii
    The standard tray is longer and higher than the tii one, interferring with the brake master cylinder (because tiis have the long, smaller-diameter brake booster to allow room for the air intake). Steve
  19. Steve73tii
    I've painted myself into a corner here... My welded-in tii battery tray was removed during body work and the bolt-in replacement tray I have is out of a regular 2002 so won't fit. (Please don't ask how -- it's as stupid as it sounds.) My "Plan B" is to install a sealed battery under the rear seat, but I would prefer to stay with the stock location. Does anyone have any leads on a mythical and ellusive tii bolt-in tray or something else factory-like? Steve
  20. Steve73tii
    Bill, That's terrific news! A hearty welcome home to Nathan and many safe and happy miles ahead! Steve
  21. Steve73tii
    Ditto on the '72-'73, though it might be easier and cheaper to find a nice '74 or '75. As a follow-on question, is there anything non-mechanical about the "California-ness" of the CA '76? That is, theoretically, based on the VIN or something else, could some other state try to make a car pass visual inspection with the CA smog gear intact? I hope not -- I agree with Mike that the '76s should all be rescued from CA and live as thermal reactor-free 49-state cars! Steve
  22. Steve73tii
    I read somewhere (was it McCartney?) that installing a sunroof by cutting through the roof pillars compromises the integrity of the shell and makes it hard to refit the glass if you don't get the rewelded pillar perfect -- Is this the case? So the right way to do it would be to weld in just the top of the roof panel -- I think that would be skinning the panel as Skippy posted? It's all out of my expertise, as I'm an untrained rhesus monkey with the MIG, but I thought someone should raise those points. My opinion (and I'm a newbie here): I'd want to keep the finished car as safe, tight, leak-free, and worth as much or more (especially when spending a couple month's salary on a resto) and be able to sell it with a clear conscience. That being said, I actually really like factory sunroof '02s and I'd be looking to trade for one. Steve
  23. Steve73tii
    You're right about the fasteners -- They're too cheap not to replace. Ordered a new set yesterday. Steve
  24. Steve73tii
    Nah, some new hardware, but not all. I may change my mind since the motor is so purty, but some of the fasteners I am pulling out look like they're still shiny yellow cad so I'm going to see how things clean up. That is my biggest problem right now, getting the dirty parts clean and keeping them that way.
  25. Steve73tii
    Ha! Thanks Steve. Actually I'm a little slow so my friend has agreed to park his '72 here while I work so I have a 3-d diagram... Steve
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