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Steve73tii

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Everything posted by Steve73tii

  1. Steve73tii
    I think I found the answer. There are 2 drawings with 2 different rear mufflers for each car, but apparently this is one of the non-tii mufflers. I'll have to re-order. --Steve
  2. Steve73tii
    Quick part /part # question: Is this the factory tii muffler? Mfg by Boysen, part # is 18 12 1 103 939. ETK lists a 739 part number, not 939. I'm sure it's just a new # for the same part and it probably doesn't matter whether it's Boysen or Eberspacher. I'm just double-checking since I have gotten the wrong part from the dealer before. Sorry if it's been covered, but the forum search yielded a wealth of other info. --Steve
  3. Steve73tii
    I'm sure others more experienced will weigh in shortly, but since you asked for dubious advice... What's the objection to the factory fuel lines? Are you anticipating metal-spike-wearing passengers stomping precisely in the corner where the line runs? Do you want to be able to have 'just a little' cabin fire without shutting down the flow of fuel? Of course I'm being sarcastic, all in good fun... I'm sure there's a convincing argument for running hard fuel lines, but for peace of mind, I would just replace the old lines with new factory plastic lines. --Steve
  4. Steve73tii
    Of course you could always just google it and specify the site you want to search. (hint: searching craigslist.org will get you sfbay.craigslist.org, losangeles.craigslist.org, etc., etc...) --Steve
  5. Steve73tii
    You could drive down to Hayward and visit Double '02 Salvage for the rare thrill (unknown back East, anyway) of buying 2002 stuff over the counter. There's also Bay Motor Wrecking right in Berkeley (assuming he's still there - I left the area a couple years ago). If you like record stores, Mod Lang is must-see, but they've moved up to El Cerito. Great bicycle shops and lots of Indian food in Berkeley, but that's my own personal bias... --Steve
  6. Steve73tii
    e21s had a slightly different rear spring/shock setup - basically coilovers. The non-"s" 320i (at least the late ones, not sure about '77-'79) also lacked a rear swaybar, supposedly to keep the inside rear tire from lifting in corners. Not sure if this is what lead to the tail-happy comments, but my old 320i never seemed to oversteer with or without the swaybar. --Steve
  7. Steve73tii
    Hey Ray, Sharp eye - the clock's where it belongs on the dash (not visible from this angle) and it actually works. On the other hand, if you would have asked where the snorkel is, I would've had to say, "where it doesn't belong, under the hood"... --Steve
  8. Steve73tii
    Esty, Thanks for the suggestions and the offer - a definite possibility. I'm going to check out some fabric samples before I do anything, but I'll let you know in a couple weeks if that's okay with you. --Steve
  9. Steve73tii
    Thanks everybody for the comments - keep 'em coming! The black coco mats look awesome... C.D. - If I lived in a neighborhood with pools, I could probably afford a perfect interior. Even the Cheektovegas (NY) above-ground pool would be a step up from from my 'hood. This is Barfalo, after all, not Darien :-) A note on the bus wheel - it's the euro-bus with metal spokes, center horn button, leather rim, and slightly smaller, like the '70 "fire sale" ti wheel. It's probably a relic from my car being driven around Germany for several months before being shipped over. I have a 320is wheel, but I guess I'm a little attached to this one. --Steve
  10. Steve73tii
    Some of the resident experts have posted on the difference between 'early' and 'late' saddle brown interiors, but it was hard to find pics to compare the two while trying to put my '73 tii together. Since I've found some of the '73 pieces, I was able to compare them with the ones out of my '72 (VIN 2478816, late '71 build date). Pics show early saddle brown on the left, late on right. (Not shown are the pre-'71 "tobacco" brown or the tan from the square taillight cars.) These examples are all worn and sun-faded (the round piping on the seams should not be black), but the earlier saddle was more gold with dark striations and the late was more reddish and solid color. To those with saddle interiors: I feel your pain. --Steve
  11. Steve73tii
    I'm not very good with cosmetics, so I'm going to throw myself on the mercy of the faq here and ask for suggestions for my should-be-late saddle-brown* interior. As many know the factory colors are NLA, so this isn't easy. The door cards are out of a '71/'72 so they're the earlier saddle. The rear seat and panels are the 'right' color but a little rough. The seats are e21 Recaros with generic brown tweed centers. The carpet is some other shade of saddle-type brown. The black & tan coco mats were a very nice gift, but they throw another color into the mix. So... I have enough shades of brown here to cause a disco-era flashback! The car is a tii with stock setup and I'm trying to keep it kind of low-key, so nice stuff like 6-series rear seats is out for now. Options I'm considering: Redone front Recaros and/or rear seats from Aardvark Racing in close-to-factory saddle brown vinyl. Trade around for decent factory front seats and door cards (goodbye lateral support) Some kind of cloth seats similar to a euro factory material? Forget brown altogether and redo everything in factory black basketweave. Suggestions anyone? (Other than 'ignore it and drive' - that's what I've been doing.) Thanks, Steve * see my other post for early vs. late saddle brown pics
  12. Steve73tii
    John - Thanks for posting and leading the drive. I still can't keep up with your car! Thanks for the hospitality Kris, Tony, Don, all. All in all a nice meet-up despite the tragedy on the track. --Steve
  13. Steve73tii
    I don't think early seats are screwed down (the backrest is, but that's different). The idea is the curved part of the tab pops behind the lip on the under-seat kick panel and provides tension against the seat easily coming out. When I had a hard-to-fit seat, I bent the whole tab back with a pair of channel locks, then re-bent to maintain that curved shape you mentioned. With the tabs bent properly you should be able to get the seat in by pushing toward the back of the car just firmly enough to slightly deflect the frame of the seat. If it's very difficult, maybe your seat was originally made for non-retractable seatbelts, (though it looks like your seat is the '73 brown, so that shouldn't be a problem). HTH, Steve
  14. Steve73tii
    Huh? I thought only the brackets and the holes in the fender were different and the chrome pieces were the same for all early cars (except for the holes for rubber strips on '72/'73). I have the front bumper off of my '73 right now and it's taking some pushing and prying to line up, but I'm going to go try to finish it just so I can see what you're talking about. --Steve
  15. Steve73tii
    How about drill a hole in it and see if the *metal* turnings stick to a magnet? --Steve
  16. Steve73tii
    Hi Dave, I'll be there. I think I've got Nate talked in to it and we have a new '02 owner and another older bimmer driver who's new in town. --Steve
  17. Steve73tii
    Blinding drivers of on-coming cars (and those in front) is a popular leisure activity for ugly Americans... j.k. (sort of) but whatever laws we have are seldom enforced and are just as likely to get one of us cited for running more considerate Euro H4s without DOT approval as they are Blindy Blingington driving his $50K manure hauler around town with mis-aimed HIDs, hi-beams and driving lights on. I'm just taking the p*ss. Man, I'm cranky before the coffee kicks in... --Steve
  18. Steve73tii
    Anyone have an extra factory lug wrench/jack handle? I've been carrying around the generic "+" wrench, but it would be nice to have one that fits under the trunk boards (and has a little more retro appeal). Thanks, Steve
  19. Steve73tii
    As mentioned, too many other possibilities, but if you're focusing on the fuel system, check the 3 other filters aside from the can on the bulkhead. There's a fine mesh pre filter on the in-tank fuel pickup and a wire screen cone inside both the fuel pump and Kugelfischer pump inlets. Rust in the tank is almost a given unless you've flushed it and the filters can load up very easily. Sometimes the car will idle, then the junk will get stirred up and sucked toward the filter once you start moving. If a goofball PO left out any filters, the blockage will travel up the line to the next one - hopefully then the screens will be there so the fuel pump or k-fish won't be destroyed. Running the fuel pump dry can also wreck it - it needs a gasoline bath for cooling (!) I got a Mesa Performance rebuild for peace of mind and carry a spare, but I also took care of those filters, new fuel lines, and flushed and sealed the gas tank. --Steve
  20. Steve73tii
    Thanks Mike for the clear picture (of such nice clean parts too!) That's exactly what I was trying to describe in too many words - the same hose and rigid line that I have in my setup. I see which way I need to bend the pipe. --Steve
  21. Steve73tii
    Thanks Skip, That totally helps. That will give me some peace of mind to get that done right. Best, Steve
  22. Steve73tii
    If anyone has installed the Aardvark 5-speed kit, how did you route the hard line and hose from the slave cylinder? My kit has a short hard line that's bent in roughly two 90s. I pointed it rearwards so the rubber hose comes out over the back of the slave then loops underneath up to the master (sorry, no pics right now). This routing makes me a little nervous - I'm thinking I should point the pipe forward so the hose is less exposed and the coupling isn't in a tight spot against the tunnel. Is this right? If I have to pull the slave cylinder, can I bleed it off the car as the instructions suggest, or will this shoot the pushrod out? Thanks, Steve
  23. Steve73tii
    I'm a newbie too, but make sure the fuse for the fuel pump is tight in the fuse box and the connections are clean. I had my fuel pump go out 3 weeks ago between driving the car onto a dyno and starting it up for the first run and the fuses "looked" good, the connections to the fuel pump were good... I was getting ready to get my hands dirty when I inspected the fuse manually and it was just slightly loose. Bent the conductors in the fuse box and it started right up. Hope yours is something so simple. Steve p.s. Tombstone - good flick and good quote. My favorite, cause it was so obscure: "No need to go heels to get the bulge on a tub like you." Wyatt Earp/Curt Russell
  24. Steve73tii
    I proposed to my wife with that line... But seriously, beautiful job on the car and nice pics. Something to aim for (along with "light" and a "level floor" in my garage, but that's a whole 'nother job...) --Steve
  25. Steve73tii
    Hey Kris, Were you able to get the Wurth undercoat locally or did you mailorder? I don't think anybody sells it retail down here. How's your car coming? It sounds like you're doing a really thorough job. I wanna see you driving it before the next Mississauga drive! Best, Steve
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