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Steve73tii

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Everything posted by Steve73tii

  1. Steve73tii
    I have an Agave '73 tii. I'm not a very motivated seller, but every year I get a little closer to selling after garaging the car for 6 months. Maybe she would be happier back in SoCal where she came from... Send me an email.
  2. Steve73tii
    Nates -- Lemme play the infomercial shill here in case you're being conservative with the numbers... I can't remember the definition of stage 1, but wondering if your Dad's engine is stage 2 since it does have higher-compression pistons and head work? And that's 130 rear-wheel HP at 4k RPM, right, hence the "more on tap"? --Steve
  3. Steve73tii
    Nice car! Looking for 20 years? I'd say your patience was rewarded in spades. Almost sorry to see it leave the area, but looks like it found a good home. Enjoy! --Steve
  4. Steve73tii
    Just an attaboy for Evans Motorworks in Dayton: They found a tii alternator and a new voltage regulator same day (don't know how!) and got me back on the road. Armin and all were extremely gracious and went out of their way working late and looking in Columbus and Cincinnati for parts. Prices were in line with realoem, etc. and I was happy to have them do the installation while I worked on the computer and got food. Don't know how much a mention here counts to them, but you might want to check them out since they seemed to appreciate the older cars and the prices were fair. --steve
  5. Steve73tii
    I'm at the dealer and they say they'll have an alternator here in the next 1/2 hour or so. They're going the extra mile so far and if they can do it, I'm going to leave much "positive feedback" (and $$). Karl, Thanks. I sent you email. Hey Kris - didn't get your email, but thanks. If it was through FB, it's filtered by the firewall here. So... do you think I came out better or worse by missing V@V :-) --steve
  6. Steve73tii
    eurotrash - thanks for the info. I'm following up on those. I might be interested in your used tii alternator if nobody in Dayton has something close. sherman - you're right, an actual tii alternator may be a tall order. I will try your conversion suggestion if I get a new/reman alternator today. --Steve
  7. Steve73tii
    Another bad alternator, but not at V@V... I'm at the dealer in Dayton, OH and they're saying it might take a couple days to get an alternator. Does anyone know a Bosch dealer or somewhere else in the area that might stock a tii-compatible alternator? --Steve
  8. Steve73tii
    Hi CD - These are supposed to be driving lights, so like the hi-beams they would NEVER be on facing oncoming traffic. I may or may not exhibit stupidity, thank you for mentioning, but my father taught me road manners back when there was such a thing. SO... Do you think those cut-offs are for fogs only or for driving lamps as well? I don't see them on new production Hellas. A friend generously gave these to me and said they were driving lamps, but I don't think he ever hooked them up. Is there a way to tell by the reflector shape or do I just need to get them hooked up and aimed and see if they light way down the road? --Steve
  9. Steve73tii
    Yep, that's exactly right. I think the clearance issue is more with the underlying frame in that area than with the extra padding, but you have the right idea. It might not hurt to make a little adjustment to the retaining clips but I think you're right to avoid drastically modifying the seat. --Steve
  10. Steve73tii
    Anyone else's old Hella driving lights have metal shields/diffusers that plug in around the bulbs? One of mine has it and the other doesn't. What are they for? Are they still available? --Steve
  11. Steve73tii
    Michael - you're right that there is a difference for the retractable belts. I have both mid and late rear seats for a roundie and can confirm this. It's just an additional small cutout in the back corner of the seat cushion. A parts vendor tried to describe it to me over the phone once and I too was confused at first. The earlier seat will still fit with the retractable belts; you'll just need to "finesse" it into place. You can also take some channel locks and gently re-bend the retaining clips or the seat frame itself, but it's basically a tool-free install if you don't mind wrestling with it a little. HTH, --Steve
  12. Steve73tii
    A couple of thoughts from my recent muffler install: get the factory rubber mounts. They're reinforced with a nylon belt. The aftermarket plain rubber ones are too stretchy. As mentioned, rotation is important. Rotating at the downpipe/center resonator will get the right clearance with the trannie tunnel and the saddle bend over the subframe. Then you can adjust the muffler for the right clearance to the rear valance/trunk floor (thinking about the pre-'75 right-side tailpipe exit, can't remember on the center exit.) The factory exhaust fits better and is less touchy in terms of rotating into place. If your exhaust lacks hangers anyway, might as well replace it with OE. HTH, --Steve
  13. Steve73tii
    Follow-up question that might answer Tom's as well - do the turbo seats have a tilt base or do they tip at the backrest hinge like all other '02 seats? I thought the seats that tilt like those in the picture were from the 911 (RS?) and their courtesy rear seats. A pair of those went on ebay.de for a couple thousand euros last week. --Steve
  14. Steve73tii
    So, I did the 5-spd conversion this summer and I got the slave cylinder to tunnel clearance 99% right, but that 1%... If I take off out of 1st just right (wrong?) I can still hear some rattling. We only have 5-6 months of good driving weather, so I put it off until winter. Now, do I really want to drop the gearbox again this winter or is there any way to get another 16th" or so with the trannie in place? Would a slide hammer from inside the car have any effect? Feeling lazy... --Steve
  15. Steve73tii
    Got some as a gift. Their service seems ok and shipping was timely. I believe all their mats are made-to-order and they don't accept returns, which is something to consider. One nit-pick: after asking whether my car was a standard or automatic (it's a tii, but fair enough - normal people wouldn't assume it's a stick) the cut-out around the pedal box is vertical, not angled like the factory mats. This creates a lot of material behind the pedal where I already have Dynomat and carpet underlay and it doesn't follow the line of the pedal surround in my carpet. Maybe they have to do it this way to keep the fibers from unraveling, but it's a little annoying. --Steve Edit: Sorry for the jack! To the original poster, your floor mats look awesome!
  16. Steve73tii
    I remember that from the news last year. Not a pleasant memory. If I recall, someone came barelling down the hill across Market from the direction of Corona Heights and Davies Medical Center and either ran into or knocked another car into a row of parked vehicles. The man in the '02 was killed. I don't know if the other driver was drunk or had a seizure/heart attack/fugue of some sort, but I would hesitate to pass judgement. I didn't want to remember that, but it's a good reminder that it could happen to any one of us. --Steve
  17. Steve73tii
    Really nice-looking wheels Tony! No rubbing issues? BTW, did you get your trailing arm sorted out? --Steve
  18. Steve73tii
    I was born the same year as my 1st car. Three cars before the first '02 (and two more '02s, two e30s and another Ford since). 1) '69 Ford Galaxie 500 4-door, Aqua Blue on black, family car from new. Learned to drive and wrench on it well before 16 and passed it on to my brother in '91 [7 or 8 years without a car] 2) '76 Toyota Corolla ("Coroda" aka "Brenda the Fenda Benda"). Free car, totalled before I got it. 3) '83 320i, was looking for a 2002 but found this. Reliable daily driver for years and easy to work on. Friend Carey still has it. --Steve
  19. Steve73tii
    There are two bolts, one for the intertia reel and one for the shoulder belt attachment up on the B-pillar. You need the washers and spacers too. Realoem has pictures so you can see which pieces you're missing. Be safe and order the correct factory parts from Blunt, Maximillian, or a friendly dealer. They would be impossible to find and more expensive from the hardware store. --Steve
  20. Steve73tii
    Thanks John -- So I have the "improved" timing cover then. I wanted to know because the face of that hole is chipped, making the location of the alternator mount subject to bolt tension. It's a nifty design 'n all - the hole is on kind of an "island" (peninsula?) in a hollow area of timing cover, so it doesn't cause an oil leak if it cracks, but there's not much mating surface there. Not sure I want to replace the whole timing cover for this. Maybe this winter I'll level it off and put a washer or spacer between that and the alternator mount? --Steve
  21. Steve73tii
    I tried to scrape and wire-brush off the oil/dirt/broken-down undercoating on my car, but what turned out to be the easiest was shop rags soaked in mineral spirits. A little elbow grease -- and I mean not RSI-inducing -- took it down to the factory primer without gouging up the surface. YMMV. --Steve
  22. Steve73tii
    Is there more than one style of lower timing cover for the tii? On my car (3/73 build), the front of the iron alternator bracket mounts through a hole on the cover. Was there another style where the alternator bracket was part of the cover? I'm wondering not so much for correctness, but whether there was an update to make the alternator mount stronger. --Steve
  23. Steve73tii
    (nt)
  24. Steve73tii
    I'm looking for a pair of saddle brown door panels for my '73. Don't have to be perfect, just clean. Thanks, Steve Sorry for the repost. My 1st post fell off the edge of the screen :-)
  25. Steve73tii
    Does anyone have pics of the different gas caps? I once sold one with a clever, solid-feeling lock cover and I'm wondering if this is the squarie gas cap that Mike mentions. Also have an old one with a flimsy cover and small keyway and I'm wondering where it fits in between the non-locking and the new Mobile Trad. locking caps. --Steve
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