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jetboy

Solex
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Everything posted by jetboy

  1. if i were you id pop open the tank and stick a hose in there direct(or jsut use a gas can) , hook it to your pump and see if it pumps. you might have a cracked hose between the pump and the tank-- since thats the low pressure side it would not be shooting gas all over, just sucking air not gas------ or it could be your sending unit got a rock stuck in it or something i suppose-- it will take a while, use a short piece of clear hose so you can see it come and yo don't run the pump too long dry- if its still good now, running it while dry is gonna ruin it eventually.
  2. they say: KX2 (which I assume is KAMAX) 10g on them looks good!
  3. hey, thats real good to know-> so you could make it pretty much any color you wanted if you have the base clear to start from. too bad the regular yellow ones are not just coated - they are solid yellow plastic right?
  4. got new bolts -> 10 bucks for 6 OEM bolts plus lock nuts (ps: there are two types, long bolts with lock nuts, and shorter bolts that attach directly to the shaft. - lucky mine were the bolt type - i dont think you can get the other type out if you break them off!) - so a pretty cheap problem - as long as installation goes well. probably gonna do the otherside as well, but wanted to fix this one first and see how much of a pain in the ass it is.
  5. thats a good price. I am still looking for the red and white ones - to go with the red centered rear roundies-- I was thinking about how much it would cost to just have them made-- seems like if we got like 20 people together we could get a casting and just have them made for less thhan 300 a set!
  6. i switched the fuel pump- no great difference-> but i have to pospone other tests as I was revving and driving - and punched it off a stop sign and chopped the bolts on my rear axle-> yaih!
  7. i am afraid its probably just old car and average hp-- and a little too much hot rodding off a stop! that said, i dont think the solex phh hurts-> when it works it works really well awsome-- id be happy to lend a hand and drink your beer-> sucks i probably wont be able to bring the '70 unless I push it---
  8. yeah, thats what I was hoping-- -- it just surprised the hell out of me. damn glad it was only a block from my house. might just bring it in and have it done professional like-- seems like it might jsut be worth getting it on a lift and doing it right- local bmw shop is fing expensive tho - on the other hand they do handle a lot of 2002s - so they know what they are doing at least
  9. i was wondering about using JB weld to plug the holes from the trim - is jb weld paintable?
  10. for those who don't know, i've been struggling with tuning and high rpm troubles-- I just finished some adjustments - and took it out for a spin around the area - to get to high rpms i got to stomp on it - its emeryville- kinda industrail, no ones around at night, but the streets are short- lots of stop signs. so I pulled hard off a stop sign, punched it, and Kathump! my right rear axel sheered the bolts off right at the differential! Everything else looks fine- a clean cut right through every bolt- i didnt even know that was possible-- does this mean the differential went as well?
  11. i have 4 wheel covers ill trade you for some beer. - original '70 stock covers-- pretty banged up but all there- i feel the pain man! My front shock bushings are all cracked and dying-- went to the local shop - ~98 bucks a piece! guy said-- go get some used ones, they only go bad every 30 years or so-- 10 year old ones will still last you 20 more years- a post here and 30 bucks later i got two nice condition used and a free fuel pump to boot. courtesy of a fellow FAQer
  12. thanks!- and have some new info for you all: today i took it out for a bit and found out this: in first gear I can go past 5k no problem - in second 4k- cant quite hold smooth but does it in third i can do 3k, but not well and fourth sucks--- when i hit a slight down grade i could go to 4k in third and no missing, but as soon as a hill started-- missing--- i picked up a free fuel pump today, give it a whirl--
  13. 1. yes 2. yes, but it takes some effort because it starts to miss 3.idle jet is 55, the rest I am not sure as I cannot reach them easily when installed- but I was *told* that they are speced to a stock engine and worked well on a stock before. 55 is a little large for idle, (52.5) but I was told that as a solex ages it needs slightly larger jets due to wear - 4. it spits a bit of fire when its cold out the carbs, but not when its warm - none out the tailpipe. i can adjust the timing to stop this, but advancing too far seems to make the missing/smoking worse. i have adjusted the valve clearance-and am running a petronix with new plugs, wires, and distro cap. could it be the dizzy?
  14. stock mechanical pump, which is sufficient if its in good working order. that is one thing I have not tried-- if you suspect it then its worth a shot- now that you say that I do have another one that looks like crap - but maybe it works fine. ill try that! thanks-
  15. i need some help tuning dual side draft solex and thought id put it out again in case some expert has come along recently. i keep having troubles above 3k, but its not vacuum (as far as I can tell) and the jets should be close enough - but not sure (is there a way to test without getting other jets-- cause i got no others) here is where it stands- took it out today and I can rev the engine to 3 k while standing, drop the clutch and peel rubber off my tires- (just to show it works well under 3k) but as soon as it hits there-- it sputters and misses and dogs-- and develops smoke which i assume has to be gas which is not burning - or oil that only shows up after I push it hard for a while - so the question is, if this was you and you didnt want to *just switch the carb idiot" because you love punishment, what would you start with - ?
  16. the exhaust manifold is directly below your spark plugs - any oil leaking off your valve cover or water/coolent off the pipe fittings toward the front of the block would make smoke come from that area as it burns off. i suspect your calve cover gasket is leaking oil- if it sat for a long time-- thats what you get. thats not a big deal, just go get another one. if its coming from your spark plugs you got a whole nother set of problems-- but make sure they are seated well-- and it sounds like this car has sat a long time- at LEAST change the oil, throw some marvel mystery oil, in there, and put in new plugs before you go hot-rodding around.
  17. what you speak makes sense to mine ears - I suspect mine are not stock - as they have not the sleeve you speak of - i just adjusted width to a reasonable level (not bulging beyond the metal end caps) but perhaps a sleeve would be a good idea-- i wonder why IE decided against it? there must be some reason--
  18. looks good - i have never seen the middle trim on (ok, half on) with the top chome removed--- its usually all or nothing-- it actually gives it sort of a distinctive look. I think the Navy color helps blend the hood and trunk into the body - and the line below is a nice touch. clean up the missing stuff and it will look excellent. (if you are not into restoring ) nice one! whats wrong with it??!
  19. i just changed out my rear shocks and the bushings did not have a metal sleeve inside them, only the two metal end caps and the rubber bushing. seems like a metal sleeve would be counterproductive to the bushing doing its job? or am I getting the sleeve concept wrong--
  20. hey carb guy - i like what you are suggesting-- so here is the first Ask The Carb Guy: got some ti dual side draft solex. got good vacuum seal, and its jetted generally to engine spec - I have to assume within tuning range as I have no other jets. I have not changed the dizzy- but all plugs, wires, rotor and cap and coil are new/ you interested in consulting/do you have any resource for getting a tuning manual??? I get it close, but i cant quite get it right. its mostly on the higher end, I can stomp it spin the tires off a stop and buzz around when rpms are low, but around 50mph in 4th gear, or going up hills, it start to miss and fuddle-- and fail. - seems like its flooding cause i start to develop smoke as the gas fails to burn clean. the problem is that I am not exactly sure what turning the screws is doing, and how much a movement on the screw is changing the mixture etc. should I be working with 1/4 turns, less? do i get a stethescope and listen for something? and then there are of course 4 mixture scews and 2 idle (sync ) screws(they are between intake 1/2 and 3/4- seem to sink the air flow??) is there a method to work down the line and do each intake? or is it a wholistic art where I just intuit the magic? thanks!
  21. whats wrong with an 02 for daily driving as a college student? Sell that one on ebay for 7k, and go buy a stock one in good shape for 3k, and use it-- I had a 76 02 all through college and grad school- great college car. gets props with the chicks too-()
  22. yes, waiting definately helps - you just had air in the lines- sometimes bleeding just is not enough and gravity just needs to work over time . you can also do like 500 pumps that can help fix it-- seriously - count around 500 if you broke the bleed valve on the brakes be very very carefull-- you could loose pressure and totally loose that brake and kill yourself-
  23. i call it freelance work- always undervalue how much you get paid when you do a little work outside your job-- yup. either that or stop your health insurance plan for 3 or 4 months and hope you dont get sick-
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