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jetboy

Solex
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Everything posted by jetboy

  1. Im with Blunt, try and set up a group buy?
  2. Ok, here is a question for you: getting way off topic i guess but: I am starting to fish around for materials to build a suit of armor out of (yes, period looking japanese armor -the kind you sword fight in). The armor has to look generally correct to the 1500s and functional in that its light enough to move in, and can withstand being pounded on by blunt instruments. correct period for the plates is (black/red/blue) laquered leather which looks alot like black plastic. So, generally people just use plastic - but if I am going to go through all that trouble to make or buy these little plates of plastic (around 3"x6" - but size can vary , usually slightly tapered and/or curved) I was wondering if kevlar might be a better way to go - if you expert fibre cloth workers were going to make little plates that needed to withstand blunt trama - what would you make them out of? and do you know where I could get little scraps of kevlar (or whatever) to make such items out of? they can all be the same size, or possibly 3 set sizes if I get creative, but the also need to have holes through which I can run braided line to mesh them all together. I dont know much about it really, just what I have read here- and wondered if thats even possible to do. -j
  3. then mount it right on the front of the car, just like a bay window bus. then you would be cool. Respest it man!!
  4. i dont have a leak down tester, I have heard about such a thing, but not sure how one does it or how much its going to set me back. actually the intake had some white carbon/corrosion build up on that cylinder - and not on any of the others. I cleaned it up as best I could- but maybe it just needs to break in again (I hope)
  5. So I am no expert at compression so please bear with me. I have an old engine on a stand - I removed the manifolds, changed the oil and filters, put some Marval M oil in the oil and a bit down each spark plug hole, hooked up a battery. then did each cylinder down the line: got approximately: 25, 165, 125, 125 But when I went back to the first 25, I got 75 the next time - and it seemd to get better the longer i turned the engine over. I have some general questions: how many revolutions should you need to get a firm reading? is it wierd that the more revolutions I did the better number i got? the one that got 165 seemed to jump perfectly there and stay, the others took a bit more work. in any case, it looks like I will have to tear it down. but wanted to see what people have to say about compression tests done this way- if they are reliable or not etc.
  6. Hey, I am hoping to make some sort of trade or pay to use some sort of flat ground off the street to swap my engines in the berk/oak area. I have a hoist lined up but need space I can maybe leave the car for a couple days while everything goes together.-- I have various parts/skills I can trade with to help make it worth your while! -josh jetboy@newbabynews.net
  7. you don't call it CF, you call it : Carbon-glass fiber! as you say there is really no point in having non structural parts that strong anyway - so its not like you would be ripping anyone off - just making the look and weight affordable-
  8. How about layering CF on top of Fiber glass or some such structure? I remember my old LOOK racing bike was "Carbon-Kevlar" - which I assumed was a combination of the two materials, perhaps layered. (but perhaps it was weaved (blended) together like your first example) the bike was not painted, so you could clearly see the carbon weave, I did not notice any difference between the carbon weave on that bike and others that were not a kevlar composite. in other words, could you not make the base structure with fiberglass, then throw a thin layer of CF on top to get the sex appeal and thickness/cost effectiveness you want?
  9. doing a head gasket takes about 3-5 hours if you do it right. but am I the only one wondering about an engine that was rebuilt 5k ago and has a blown head? what the hell went wrong? well, yeah, the head isn't much compared to the rest of the engine- if you got a nice rebuild on the lower half, go get your head done right. take it off and and put it back yourself, but get it machined by a pro and save yourself a lot of trouble. i guess its obvious: but get your head pressure tested first, if its got cracks that will show, and you will be out 40 bucks jsut to know, but then you can go buy a decent head and work from there if it s screwed.
  10. its funny because I expected the engine to be totally shot when i got it for free, so I just assumed i was in for a full rebuild, and id leave my old - almost totally gone engine in to drive when I HAD to until I was done. I wasn't expecting the connundrum of getting what seems to might be an engine in pretty good shape already. but this weekend will be the true test, ill get a battery to it and do a cold compression. if I get good numbers it might just go in as is. if not, then ill do the business now.
  11. The key is that I actually have an extra head with cam/rockers laying about doing nothing I can practice on. so I thought id try that and see how tough it was before I tried on the "good" one.
  12. I suspect I need that funky fork like tool - to compress one while I slide the other over it. anyone got one? hopefully its fairly generic--
  13. damn! thought I was going to get free work on my van! probably the couch is better, the van is a camper, but only has a pretty hard half bed to sleep on - but SF has a lot to see you should have little problem having a good time as long as your money doesn't run out. country boy in honolulu? where did you live?? I used to live in Kaimuki and manoa- - wishing there was a Magoos in the bay area! !
  14. do we have to invade Canada - again??!!??
  15. I am an east bay guy - if I wasn't married and live in a 1 bedroom id let you crash at mine - my wife works all night on japanese ebay, so unless you slep with me--hmm. - oh, wait- you want to stay in my camper van? you can do that. heck, if you insure it, put gas in, and probably do some general maintanence ( i havnt driven it in a while) it you can drive it around and stay in it. its registered and all, just no insurance. heh. in any case, you can leave you crap around mine if you feel unsafe leaving it elsewhere. I am in emeryville, which is just up the way from oakland airport, and about 10 minutes out from SF non-rush hour times. -510.316.2620 jetboy@newbabynews.net
  16. I admit I am a little slow, but if I slide the rocker to the side I hit the next rocker down before anything clears, do I have to somehow push that one to the side (or push the valve down)- or what? - I think I just need more instruction as I am a dumb ass - thanks!!
  17. poor as I am, i have to encourage this type of action - i sent them my 100 bucks. I'll bet you 100 bucks that I don't win - any takers? heh.
  18. i touched the heck out of the face and the needle on mine and it ended up working fine, but only on the second try, first time my alignment was off. take it back apart and try again - make sure your inner needle is perfect and straight- etc.
  19. heh - yeah, I wasnt actually gonna try running it. for one thing I dont have a garden hose. cowboy methods are what I live (and die) by- sounds like its worth a shot, i could just buy two sets and if I ruin one or two id have spares-
  20. good stuff, its on an engine stand now. - ill the the oil change and hook up the starter - thats another thing that looks recently rebuilt- but who knows - I suppose if I threw a carb on it and hooked up the garden hose, could just poor gas and water into it and make it run too - that would be funny. the exhaust and intake headers are both on, i was going to take the exhaust off and take a look down and give it a visual inspection - but yeah, if it looks good with the cold compression test then im tempted just to put it in and cross my fingers. it would be pretty hard to be worse than whats in there now
  21. SO - ibjettin gave me the engine out of his 69 parts car - braving the black widows and dog crap to do it-- but as we were taking it out, we took of the cam cover to discover that, while the outside black paint was all flaked, and the engine had caked oil and crap on it, the cam and inside of the head looks immaculate. clean - all around, so far as to have shiny lobes! its stamped #2, just like normal. but I wonder if the shininess means it migth have been re-ground- the oil in the pan looks alright as well - used but not black. I am not sure about the block, but the head is an e12, so its obviously not the orignal. would you a. lay a hand on the earth to buddha and stick the thing in b. take off the head and take a look at the pistons (throw some gas on top and see if they leak etc. ) c. tear the whole thing down and do the business. or do you have any suggestions on the easiest/best ways to test an engine that is outside the car, and NOT wanting to bring it in to a mechanic. thanks- -j
  22. I think they go in chronological order of make, not word order - of any language. first they had a model number, (2002 and 1600) then they added a touring edition. 2002 touring if you want, then they made the ti edition, so they just added on the international, and when they made an injected model they added that on to the end. so 2002 touring international injected is just the order in which they made the models - starting with the base 2002 and adding on "iniezione" is what is on the back of alfa romeo injected cars, and if you used german international is still correct, but you get "einspritzung" for injection. so its all messy mercedes uses an e for injected models-
  23. the real question is why is it in english? should not it be ri and rie? - or accepting touring, why not ti, and tie? though I suppose if you go all italian (for whatever reason) you get: turismo iniezione internazionale - then you get tii
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