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The aftermath....and a question


pikeperkins

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Everyone I've talked to said "pull that effing smog sh!t off that car and put a Weber on it. No wonder it has no power and chokes and gags" (I'm paraphrasing but you get the idea). I decided to at least put that Weber I had on it. I would have done it sooner but for some reason the vacuum hoses scared the beJesus out of me. Anyhow, I did it! And it starts! I even changed the fuel pump. I thought that may have been some of my problem as well. But there area few vacuum hoses still "hanging out". Should I just use a screw and some RTV for now to plug them up or what would be the best course of action?

Before:

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After:

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The carnage:

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That's what I did about 25 yrs. ago on my ' 75 and it's been performing fine ever since. If you're happy with it after that then you can proceed to removing the vacuum actuators, or valves, up on the firewall. You can also get rid of (if they're not req'd where you live for smog inspections) the EGR valve and the connection flange that goes into the intake manifold (the block-off plate for this is available thru the faq store [click on STORE above and go to ENGINE PARTS]).

Bob Napier

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Do you have a resistor on the coil? I thought the blue coils had a built in resistor. I could be wrong.

Ceylon 1973 2002tii 2762669

1972 Austin Mini 1275 traded

1970 Barracuda Convertible

1974 Schwarz 2002

1955 Chevy Bel Air 2 Dr Hardtop

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Guest Anonymous

and quick before C.D. sees it, get the hoses and wires supported so they don't rest on the valve cover - the heat will destroy them.

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Yup. Other than the vacuum line to the distributor, plug 'em all. Looks like the smog pump was already off your car.

This was always a big part of the appeal of the tii -- no factory smog stuff at all. Not even a vacuum line (centrifugal advance distributor).

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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That's what I did about 25 yrs. ago on my ' 75 and it's been performing fine ever since. If you're happy with it after that then you can proceed to removing the vacuum actuators, or valves, up on the firewall. You can also get rid of (if they're not req'd where you live for smog inspections) the EGR valve and the connection flange that goes into the intake manifold (the block-off plate for this is available thru the faq store [click on STORE above and go to ENGINE PARTS]).

Bob Napier

I did what you said, Bob and it still runs fine. There is a vacuum line coming out of the manifold goingto one of those vacuum actuators that I plugged with a screw and RTV. I'm not going much too far, it looks like maybe M20curtis may be swapping this tired old motor with the one I have on a stand with a Schrick, Mahles, Cannon, mechanical dizzy (I hear you, Hackmechanic!) TEP header, etc. I'll be reusing this Weber on it too. Anyhow, here it the motor as she sits without the actuators:

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And here is the motor I will be replacing it with:

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for gods sake - remove the EGR valve and it's pipes,

install blanking plate and plug. All EGR valves leak at that

age. You leak exhaust gases into the intake manifold.

THAT results in no start, no idle, sick idle, non adjustable idle,

hesitation, backfiring - what more do you need to know ? - remove

all of the EGR related system.

straighten the throttle rod from the fire wall to the carburetor - so

it is aligned STRAIGHT with the carbs ball socket

be sure you have full throttle opening - hitting the FULL OPEN stop

on the carb while you gently press the gas pedal to the carpet.

Adjust at the fire wall, and at the splined arm down at the outside of the pedal box

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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It looks like you have some sort of air filter on the crankcase breather hole...is that correct? I have all of the smog stuff out as well, but I still have the breather hose routed to the air filter, which is causing all kinds of gunk to build up around the carb inlet. I wanted to just get rid of it...thoughts?

Thanks.

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