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Is It Possible to Polish Chrome by Hand...?


Chris_B

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I recently purchased a purportedly NOS front, center bumper section. This item does indeed look unused, but if you look at the surface obliquely with a fluorescent light, you can see a uniform pattern on the upper portion of the bumper, almost as if someone painted the chrome on the bumper. These patterns run diagonally to the bumper, left to right on the left side, and right to left on the left side. Sounds crazy, but has anyone else ever observed this in a bumper piece? In case anyone wonders, it is honest-to-God chrome, not paint or anything else.

I tried to take pictures to show this pattern, but it seems impossible to focus on the surface of chrome or in any other way take a pic that shows the pattern, using macro mode or otherwise.

The other question I have is that the surface of the chrome has very fine scratches in certain areas. I have tried various chrome polishes (applied by hand using a microfiber towel) that claim they "will not scratch" chrome. These polishes (including Meguiares, Griots, etc.) either don't have any effect on the scratches and/or make the problem worse (add more scratches or a hazy look). Does anyone have any suggestions about how to deal with this problem?

Chris B.

'73 ex-Malaga

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I am told that "0000" (extra fine) steel wool does nicely on chrome and it is very inexpensive.

"Why would I pay that much money for a 1981 BMW that looks...like a 1981 BMW?" -Charles William Jones, Jr.

1975 Polaris, Sunroof

1976 Malaga

1993 E36 Sedan

1992 Mazda Miata

1998 Volvo V70

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I am told that "0000" (extra fine) steel wool does nicely on chrome and it is very inexpensive.

It sure does! I did all of the chrome on my car with this method. Be warned though, it takes many hours and a lot of elbow grease.

J Swift
Global Formula Racing (Oregon State University)

1972 Opel GT "Mae"

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Hand Polishing is like a marriage - you only get out what you put in.

4 ought steel wool is good, but as mentioned, lots of rub time.

The best metal polish I have ever used - bar none - is Flitz Paste Polish (www.flitz.com).

The chrome on the bumpers of my '76 was gone and so rather than re-chrome, I progressively hand wet-sanded them - 400-800-1200-1500-2000-2400 finished with a machine polish of Flitz w/ foam pad. It took 6 hrs. each, but they came out brilliant and then I sealed them w/ POR15 clear and an airbrush followed by a good paste waxing. They don't have the pure 'white' metal look that chrome provides, but unless I point them out, no one sees the difference, in fact they're amazed when I do point it out. Check out the pics in my intro post to see for yourself.

I do realize that you want to preserve the chrome, and assuming the patterning isn't in a sublayer, all I can say is try the steel wool oand/or machine polish w/ foam pad as I did. It will take time... seemingly endless. But, if you put in the time, you'll get the results.

Cheers!

1976 BMW 2002

1990 BMW 325is (newest addition)

1990 Porsche 964 C4 Cabriolet

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I know in some of the re-chromed bumpers we buy, sometimes you can see the belt sander imprints behind the chrome coating, could that be it?. On new OEM, I am not sure of the process before the chrome is applied, but maybe all of them are belt sanded to get rid of the stamping imperfections. That would be my uneducated guess.

FAQ Member # 91

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After taking a couple of dozen pics, I was able to capture one that shows the "pattern" to which I referred. These marks are not scratches on the surface and seem to underlie the chrome plating, but they seem to be too big to be belt sander marks. Pls have a look and let me know what you think.

post-185-13667616817947_thumb.jpg

Chris B.

'73 ex-Malaga

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Yep... sanding marks, and in the substrate.

No amount of surface work will remove them. The best that would happen is that you'd reduce the thickness of the surrounding chrome until it was equal to the marks, and still you'd likely see them. Also, at that level, you'll find the chrome deposited by the plating isn't very uniform in terms of thickness, so you're likely to expose the copper or nickel underneath in several spots before you get what you want.

Best thing is to live with it. If you can't, replacing the bumpers, or having them re-chromed are really the only answers.

Cheers!

1976 BMW 2002

1990 BMW 325is (newest addition)

1990 Porsche 964 C4 Cabriolet

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Yep... sanding marks, and in the substrate.

No amount of surface work will remove them. The best that would happen is that you'd reduce the thickness of the surrounding chrome until it was equal to the marks, and still you'd likely see them. Also, at that level, you'll find the chrome deposited by the plating isn't very uniform in terms of thickness, so you're likely to expose the copper or nickel underneath in several spots before you get what you want.

Best thing is to live with it. If you can't, replacing the bumpers, or having them re-chromed are really the only answers.

Cheers!

Yep X 2

FAQ Member # 91

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Perxactly. I'd guess that your photo is the underside, correct? Many of the chrome bumpers (expecially the last couple of years of mfg) seem to have lousier QC on the prep job before the plating process, and have at least some of what you photo'd. I remember when I was a youngern', my 69 (in 72) bumper was much better quality(chrome) than the 72 that replaced it. Sanding marks, burrs, and rough around the bolt holes that attached separate parts. Yes the Germans did cut some corners on 02's...If yoiu go to a 02 show and carry a mirror and check chrome bumpers under the "water line", I think you'll see lots of grind and sand marks...

0000 steel wool with a little carnuba wax is my weapon of choice to "clean" chrome. Will even get some rust stains around those bolt holes. Bronze wool is even less agressive for more delicate things. Not sure that chrome can actually be "polished" per se. Thats why it is used over steel, copper, nickel, in that order because of hardness; more like a "top coat". Steel for strength, copper like a primer/filler, nickel for reflective qualities and color, and chrome which is basically clear. You metallurgical pros can correct me, as my experience is mostly from furniture design/mfg...Dave V. in NC

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+2 for sanding marks in the steel substrate.

Unfortunately - not much can be done short of stripping the Copper + Nickel + Chrome plating to steel and buffing to mirror before re-plating in Copper - Nickel - Chrome.

For cleaning chrome, stick with well know chrome cleaners - I personally stay away from ANYTHING that's abrasive. The actual chrome plate layer is very thin and if you scrub too hard with an abrasive, it will go through the chrome down to the nickel plating.

Yep... sanding marks, and in the substrate.

No amount of surface work will remove them. The best that would happen is that you'd reduce the thickness of the surrounding chrome until it was equal to the marks, and still you'd likely see them. Also, at that level, you'll find the chrome deposited by the plating isn't very uniform in terms of thickness, so you're likely to expose the copper or nickel underneath in several spots before you get what you want.

Best thing is to live with it. If you can't, replacing the bumpers, or having them re-chromed are really the only answers.

Cheers!

Andy W.

'72 Tii & '74 Tii

'88 M3 & '91 318is

 

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