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Rear suspension set up update


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I finally had some time to work on my suspension today. Currently: IE stage one springs, HD's, urethane bushings, upside down in the subframe mount, 195 15 on 7" rims, rear strut brace.

I felt that the car did not track properly, you couldn't set up the steering wheel for a turn and leave it alone. You had to correct, and it was impossible not to overcorrect so you have to correct back.

One of the things that bothered me: the back was lower than the front. I have seen cars with same springs and shocks perfectly even. So I decided to experiment a little. Grabbed some longer springs from my stash (they were also less stiff) and installed them. Hoping to lift the car up a little and see if it corrected my steering problem. Well...

Surprise 1: the car dropped another inch! No bueno I thought.

Surprise 2: the steering and handling is where I like it, very predictable, smooth, no correction is required now. The sway in the back did not increase either! I feel the shocks compressing now when going over speed bumps - before the springs were too stiff to allow that.

So, do I drop the front now, maybe lift the back (newer shocks would do that). I almost want to leave it where it is, but don't like that German Shepperd look.

Is this just a trial and error thing? I am trying to think and all the 02's I have ever driven, drive different. Very few feel that are "on rails". There are so many variables that it becomes a guessing game? I have read every internet article on suspension set up and I know the basics, but ultimately, it comes down to change, drive, feel & evaluate, adjust, etc.

Any insight, experience with this?

FAQ Member # 91

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I found an old tech article about 2002s that actually said that the front should be slightly lower than the back (by around 1").

Edit: Here is the article: http://www.thetiiregister.com/phpmyfaq/index.php?sid=724679〈=en&action=artikel&cat=220437&id=395&artlang=en

Interesting train of thought and seems to go against current thinking (ultra low front and rear)

My car sits lower in the front then the rear by about 1".

My tii has revalved bilsteins (now sport in HD shock bodies), close ratio steering box, urethane bushings, Eibach springs, solid rubber rear subframe mounts, Metric 1" sway up front, and some random adjustable in the rear set to near the ends to make it fairly soft.

I have 195/60 14"s... Falkin RT-615s

Car is close to neutral at the limit with the usual slight oversteering qualities associated with the trailing arms in our cars.

I can tell you that at Watkins Glen there is a right hand downhill turn coming out of the bus stop at the end of the back stretch that I would go through at around 85+ mph exit speed. I would not have to correct the wheel at all if I set it right. The next turn is a down hill reducing radius left hand turn with no run-off room. I found that I could use the trailing throttle oversteer of the open diff to rotate the whole car towards the apex go back to 100% throttle and just hold steering wheel quietly.

Not sure, but the nervousness up front can be caused by a little too much toe-in or having some other suspension component that is worn out. It does not take much to end up having to constantly correct, even in the middle of a turn.

My .02c, not sure if it helps.

'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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New Billy's in the back will not change the ride height unless your current ones are flat. Or you go to Non gas Koni's and get a lower ride height.

I always like a softer rear (HA!) especially in autoX situations. (Just as a qualifier, I have never had a car modified as much as mine..... will be)

EDIT: After reading the post above, I wonder how your right side idler arm bushing is? How is your subframe? My car once had new bushings and a new idler arm but since the car had taken a hard shot from a pot hole, the idler arm mount got egged out. Causing the toe to move all over the place.

Just a thought.


Fresh squeezed horseshoes and hand grenades



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One thing I've noticed with my car is that when the steering box is adjusted to have no slop while the wheels are going straight, it ends up that there is slop in the wheels when they are turned. I have wondered if this might not lead to questionable handling in a turn. Something to check

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You can mix/match parts all you want,

but in the end (and your on the right track)

Vehicle ride height,

and 4 wheel alignment is what counts.

you change the control arm angles with

changing ride heights, changing TOE, and your probably

lacking CASTER up front.

Time to learn how to measure and adjust your alignment.

Nose down or level



'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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You know the alum. ride height spacers for the front of USA spec car? Put thse inbetween the rubber spring grommet (not its correct name, I know) and the body, effectively jacking the car up in the back half or 3/4 of an inch. And the rubber thingies come in different thicknesses, too!

The alum. spacers is above the spring and strut bearing in this pic


now: '72 Inka 2000 touring, '82 Alpina C1 2.3  & '92 M5T (daily driver)

before: a lot of old BMWs (some nice, some not so much), a few air-cooled 911s and even a water-cooled Cayman S

Alpina restoration blog: https://www.alpinac1.com/

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I have my car rolling on:

HR Sport Srings

Bil HD Front

Bil Sport Rear

Poly all around

all new ball joints tie rods etc.

14" e30 bottles w/ 205/60/14 just wanting to rub but don't

car kinda sits low in the rear but i like the way it handels, i don't run spring pads, i luv the vibration and i rattle can them 3 times a year (rustoleam pro is my friend)

i like to get it loose in the rain w/o lsd and its predictable... one day you might find me in the gaurdrail..


72 Bmw 2002

91 Bmw 325 Turbo

91 vanagon vw luv

82 honda nighthawlk

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