engine and drivetrain "matching numbers" questions...

[johns1974]

PREFACE---forgive me... this might be a dumb question to some of you!

When does a car cease to have the benefit of "matching numbers" status? Is it just the block that determines whether the car is "matching numbers"?

In other words, can I replace the head, valves, valve cover, pistons, even the transmission etc etc and still have a matching #'s car?

Is it really that big a deal in the long run? Assuming everything else is equal, is a car with the original block with a 5-sp and e21 head

"worth more" than the same car with a different block?

TIA for sharing any thoughts...

[steve k.]

matching numbers really only matter on the fully stock cars. Once you start replacing/upgrading other things, the matching body/engine no longer matter.

steve k.

[tjones02]

Heads and other parts like water necks and distributor housings also have date codes and can come into play on a stock restoration. If you're gonna' do some modifying and still have the original head etc. then I'd keep them around and pass them on to the next owner, until one owner down the road might like the stuff when doing a complete resto..

Other than that there really is no need on a 2002 to date code everything like the American car guys do.

[quinnfiske]

The matching numbers thing was started by the Corvette/muscle car crowd. With those cars, it is possible to create a rare and desirable model by building one. There is a huge value difference between run-of-the -mill models and something special. A real Shelby GT350 would be much more valuable than a regular Mustang fastback for instance. Before paying big bucks you want to know you are buying the real thing.

This is not so much the case with our cars. You could build up a tii from a standard car, but it would be cheaper to just buy the real thing. There would only be an issue if one were to build up something like a Turbo and try and pass it off as the real thing.

[Mike Self]

body VIN number (riveted aluminum plate and the stamping on the inner right front fender) and the engine number. They are the only two parts with significant serial numbers on 'em.

If you're a real stickler for authenticity, you'd try to have a cylinder head casting that's close to (but not past) our car's assembly date...same with turn signal assemblies, tail lights, instrument clusters etc--the Germans had a passion for date stamping all sorts of things (even wheels), and the dates usually predate the car's assembly date by a month or so (my Feb 69 car has wheels dated 11/68 and 12/68, and a speedometer dated January 69).

but unless you're going for a concours restoration, it's not that important--unless you want to sell the car and the buyer wants the engine and body VINs to match.

mike