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Heater water valve stuck & grommets


felix_666

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YES i have searched for this but all the comments are on the other style valve.

Its super stuck, I've tried soaking it in penatrate and sprayed it with lubricant yet the sucker wont budge (tried both). Plus I've pulled it apart and this is as far as i can get.

Any suggestions?

Also I'm not prepared to pay $16 a pop for the grommets that seal the hoses to the top of the box, 64 11 1 353 352, any way of using something more standard, like the right size and just cut it down??

cheers

[EDIT]

CIMG3309.jpg

CIMG3310.jpg

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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not sure what to tell you on the valve except keep soaking. but you can use "dum dum" in place of the rubber grommets if function is what youre after. but personally id spring for the grommets. not long ago they were like 60 or 70 a piece. then one day the price was cut in 5ths. still a lot of money for a grommet though

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yeah ill get grommets, i'm going tomorrow to find some that are similar.

I had a look at my2002tii.com and that fella bought them from the dealer for $3 each in 2004, which seems typical of the price to rise, if you read archived threads i find that a bit.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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And another thing, where are these from? I know this stuff is everywhere but this is the second set of this particular shape i found on the second heaterbox, i think it must be from around the heater core??

cheers

CIMG3312.jpg

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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both early and late style valves are pretty similar except for size and rotating valve composition. On the early cars that rotating part is brass; on later ones it's plastic. So don't use heat on the later ones.

I've had pretty good luck with removing the valve (leave the lever connected to the cable and unbolt the lever from the valve itself, carefully noting its position so you reinstall it correctly), then remove the two steel screws that hold the side panel on the valve body. If you can get those screws out, you can disassemble the valve, clean it, replace the o-ring and it'll be good as new.

When you get the valve out of the car, look down its throat; if the rotating part inside is brass, you can apply some heat to those screws to get 'em loose. If its plastic, don't use heat. And replace the screws with stainless steel ones.

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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thanks for that, but i'm not sure which o-ring your referring to, the valve is at the top of the thread unscrewed. I have a feeling there are two totally different valves, not just the inside material.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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thanks for that, but i'm not sure which o-ring your referring to, the valve is at the top of the thread unscrewed. I have a feeling there are two totally different valves, not just the inside material.

Felix, drop me an email and I'll see if I can help. I'm in Moonee Ponds and have several heater valves. Beaner7102

1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"

1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, 5spd & LSD - Weber 40/40 to come) - "Bluey"

1984 - E30 318i VIN WBAAK320208722176 - stock daily driver

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