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Grinding & Warbling noise?


VenturaTii

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I have a strange noise that I had once before and it just returned. The noise is a grindy noise when rolling and more of a warbly noise when driving. The first time it happened months ago, I took all the wheels off because I thought it was the e-brake sticking. Checked inside the drums and adjusted per the manual, checked the front brakes which do seem to make some brake noise when spun freely (like most cars). The last time I couldnt find anything wrong but when I put the wheels back on it went away even though I didn't really do much. Now its back, driving me crazy and I don't want to damage anything. Any Ideas?

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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Fronts can be loose--check by jacking the wheel up, grabbing at 12 & 6 o'clock and trying to rock it. If there's noticeable movement, it's loose. If you can feel roughness when you spin the wheel, the bearing's dying.

Rears can't be checked by rocking, but careful rotation should reveal any roughness.

Center support bearing starts chirping/warbling when it's dying--esp when the car is first driven in the morning.

One more thing--I thought I had a bad center support bearing 'cause I had some bad news noise like you described...turned out to be the idler pulley on the air condtioner compressor belt. The little 6202 bearing inside was disintegrating...so if you have air, check that too.

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I tried the rocking the wheel didn't seem to move much. No AC and it only does it when moving so, not an engine related issue. My question would be... if it was a wheel bearing why did it go away for a few months and now came back. I have changed many wheel bearings (on airplanes) and they only get worse.

I guess, I can take all of the wheel off again and poke around maybe it'll go away again (if I don't find something obvious). Maybe the brakes need to be bled? They work fine though and I hope not because I really suck at it!

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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I know this is a simplistic answer...but...check you lug nuts. You said that when you took your wheels off, checked brakes, etc. then put the wheels back on the noise went away. When lug nuts are loose you get sounds similar to what you are describing....ask me how I know.

The older I get the better I was!

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I will look at the lug nuts, in fact I have my breaker bar and socket in my car from a while back. I will check when I get to my car after work. It does get quieter when you slow down then stops when you stop. Not sure if it changes when I turn, don't think so. Originally, I thought my e-brake was sticking, then I took off my drums and adjusted per the manual and put everything back together voila! I hope it is something like loose lug nuts, at least thats easily fixed...lol.

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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yeah, I'm with everything driveline related-

especially the center bearing.

But a fully siezed u- joint can do it too,

as can an empty diff, a loose CV, loose rear hubnut...

Unless it changes DRASTICALLY when you touch the brakes, I don't think that's it...

fwiw,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I checked the lugs when I got out of work and they were ok except for two (was able to tighten a smidge). The warbling went away until this morning on the way back to work, the gindy noise was still there but not as bad. Sounds like calipers that aren't fully releasing? Or bearings but bearing more hum in my experience than grind.

I looked under the car when I got to work and the guibo (from what I can see, it's right infront of the diff....correct) is still in one piece. I stopping at the tire place (where I got them) and have them rotate my tires and retorque the lugs (that should eliminate THAT as a possibility). If it's still there, I guess it's crawl under the car saturday and poke around (Like I have time for that this time of year). The diff was serviced a month or so ago so, it's filled.

Any other ideas?

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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I haven't looked at the hubs but wouldn't the castellated nut have a cotter pin? I guess, 'SHOULD' should be the question.

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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Guest Anonymous

the guibo is at the front of the driveshaft, connecting it to the tranny.

The wheel castellated nuts definitely have a cotter pin - but they could still be mis-adjusted - the backs go on with like 200+ lbs torque - the fronts go on with something like 30 lbs, while turning the wheel, then back off until the washer moves freely.

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OH...I guess, I will look there tomorrow morning when I'm under the car. I will check all of those things and get back to you.

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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again...this is in the "long shot' department but what happens

on the hubs is strange. If your trailing arm/bearings were put

together properly there are spacers inside that keept the entire

group (bearing protector, oil seal, grease disbursing spacer,

shim, bearing, outer grease seal) proper. If they forgot something

on the inside, when you tighten the castellated hub nut, it seats

against the oil/grease seal and the end of the inner spaers/shims.

Sometimes, after driving, the shims adjust position and the hub

then needs a bit of retightening. Desipte the cotter pin that can

cause a wobble. Let' s not even think that someone other than

you pulled the cotter pin and backed out the nub one click just

to prove that you can drive this tough little car with a 'loose'

hub.... Incidentally, I've seen that 200 ft/lb spec. on the rear

and while it certainly looks like the axle was built to handle

that kind of torque....I've had luck with 70 ft/lbs. Besides

my wrench doesn't read that much and I haven't got

an 8' long breaker bar to bring it up to that number. I

think that much is for the factory or a pro machanic.

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I put it up on stands and lubed everything I could see, guibo is solid and center support bearing is good, if it moved I lubed it. I drove away and it was still there:( After about 5 minutes went away, I THINK it might be a sticking e-brake (even though it seems to release and the car rolls fine) just enough to make the noise. I haven't put it on since and still no noise so, we'll see.

Gretchen - 1974 Chamonix 2002 Tii: 5spd, Bilsteins, H&R Springs & IE Poly Suspension Bushings, Pierre Front Air Dam, Hella Driving Lights, Blaupunkt Stereo, MB Quart Speakers, Parker Gauge Cluster.

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