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What bolts & nuts must be replaced??


felix_666

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I'm sure this has been covered, but I'm having trouble finding it. If people contribute to this then maybe it could be moved to the Articles section.

I'm not able to replace much because of the silly BMW thread style, so I'll be replacing what i have to.

I know the half shaft bolts/nuts need to be replaced.

What else??

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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Guest Anonymous

Are you saying those are the only bolts? Whew, I still have those pictured. Its the ones that have fallen off on the expressway and swamps where I normally drive that worried me. Guess I am okay!

(I suppose I should inquire about other assorted fasteners, are there also buttons and zippers that should be replaced too?)

sorry.

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question, Do any bolts need to be replaced for security sake?

If that is your question then my answer is none.

The nuts and bolts on these cars rarely fail due to metal fatigue.

However, during maintenance of any item, you should inspect the bolts, washers, and nuts for fatigue.

Replace then if needed.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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yeah i know all the bolts should be fine, but i assumed there must be some that need replacing once they've been loosened, to gain the right torque value again, or is this simply a spare parts joke.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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are stretch bolts.

Mainly found connecting the head to block and the flywheel bolts.

Some lock type nuts should not be reused, those are found on the half shafts and guibo.

I am sure there are others, but they do not come to mind. Not much of a mind now a days.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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are stretch bolts.

Mainly found connecting the head to block and the flywheel bolts.

Some lock type nuts should not be reused, those are found on the half shafts and guibo.

I am sure there are others, but they do not come to mind. Not much of a mind now a days.

Now this is interesting. I have read before on this board that headbolts are definetly, absolutely NOT stretch bolts.

This issue is near and dear to me right now as we are currently re-assembling benetton's motor and the question of replacing (or not) the headbolts came up.

So, you experts, which is it?

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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While not 'required'.... I'd still like to use new bolts/nuts when possible, when it comes to parts that handle a lot of work, are exposed to lots of vibrations, etc. I've had many people bring me back bolts that have fallen off at the autocross or track.... and a few times I've lost important ones. That's even after tightening the crap out of them in the past. Anymore, I'd rather have brand new unused threads if possible, and some loc-tite, just to give me some more assurance.

I tried to start a thread before to list all the important bolts that need checked, might find it with a search.

I've lost a caliper holder bolt before, guibo bolts, motor mount nut, exhaust flange bolts, exhaust header studs/nuts, shifter platform-to-tranny bolts. I also need to get a new set of lug nuts soon, since those things go off and on way too much, don't trust them.

Basically, anything you've taken off and on a few times tend to get worn out, and I don't like to trust them. In safe locations where no work is performed, thats OK. But with stuff that does a lot of work and goes thru lots of vibrations, just get new when you can. If I can't find new at the time, I just loc-tite, use lock-washers, torque the crap out of it, etc.

And yeah, everytime I'm under the car... I tend to check the tightness of any bolts nearby.

Not to scare you, but yeah I'm really abusive to my car, which has never been 'restored.' It also lacks much of the undercarriage rust that keeps bolts in place on other cars... so stuff breaks loose easy.

The other day, I changed the brake pads on my friend's 04 Scion xB.... and I could barely budge the lugs off, then the wheels wouldn't come off until I pulled on the top of the tire while kicking the bottom of the tire really hard. This salt here in Ohio is scary.....

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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i know you have to use new head bolts to obtain the correct torque as their TTY, their so cheap to replace, considering what they do. I wouldn't think twice about replacing these, especially if i'd just re-built my engine.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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i once had the stud that holds the alternator bracket up quit on me. the fan belt stopped, the water pump quit and by the time i got off of the 101 (in hella traffic) i had cracked both the block and the head ;[

thats my story of how a .50$ bolt cost me 500$ to replace...

so now i just throw out the old whenever possible and but shiney new ones in. looks hella better too

got bolts?....well i sell them...ask me how....

bimmerboltsandparts.com

75 2002

88 yamaha ysr50 (street)

88 yamaha ysr50 project

94 jeep yj

84 318i

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