engine and drivetrain electrical problem solved. new problem engine cuts out now.

[chuncomunco]

I finally solved the electrical problem by rewiring the alternator harness to voltage regulator.

Now, the engine cuts out at times, there is no specific RPM. I have the feeling its something electrical because when it cuts out, the tachometer jumps wildly until the engine runs normal again.

The coils are new, the sparkplugs and wires are new and crane-allison XR700 is new. I'm acutally considering getting a MSD with trigger wheel. If its worth the upgrade i'll do it, if its not, please tell me. thanks!

[Mike Self]

just go dead? If the former, check your point plate for wear and the point gap for correct clearance. A flickering tach at steady state running can be a sign of a worn point plate (the piece inside the dizzy that the points are fastened to, and is what moves back and forth to allow ign advance.)

If the latter, there's probably an intermittent bad electrical contact somewhere in your ignition wiring.

cheers

mike

[BillWilliams]

similar to weak springs.

Worn shaft = new distributor.

[BillWilliams]

that feeds the power system of the car.

Maybe you loosened it while working on the alternator.

[Mike Self]

alternator's backside is supposed to have a wire bail holding it in place. These bails break, get lost etc so all that's holding the plug is friction. With those flexible M10 motor mounts, that plug can work loose and still look as if it's firmly in place. I've also seen the wires right at the plug in pretty gnarly shape from being overheated (like by being loose!), so check the plug, and the large wire retained by a 10mm nut and under a rubber dust cover. Be careful tightening that nut, as it's hot all the time--don't let your wrench contact anything metal.

mike

[Anthony]

You could start by replacing everything in your ignition circuit or start with the basics.

I had a very similar issue (would only manifest on a warm car) and it has always been grounds. Clean and tighten every ground.

A

[BillWilliams]

it was On Star Mike Pugh's idea, he was embarrassed to post it.

He is very shy....

[MikeinNC]

Actually what I suggested was the power feed off the positive battery terminal (not the big one going to the starter but the smaller one) An intermittent or corroded connection there will drive you batty and cause distruption in the power feed to the car, including ignition

That is what was wrong with my Fjord when I bought it for $300 years ago. The previous owner kept taking it to a local rip off artist/mechanic in Charlottesville who kept putting in new alternators, regulators and starters.