engine and drivetrain what type of paint.Single or 2 stage.

[trangieboy]

I will be repainting my sahara the original colour.Should i use a base/clear system or single stage urethane ? I will be painting the engine bay with the same colour and type of paint as i will use on the rest of the car.The engine bay (and all the rest of the paint) needs to be pretty durable.I don`t want to have to pull the engine,ect any time soon to repaint it.

Also what type paint should i use on suspension arms,sub frames,ect ? Is original a `semi gloss` ?

Thanks,Mal.

[snowflake]

I'm painting my car this week.

I first took it down to metal,

Then applied Nason etch primer(ratio of 1:1primer/activator) to seal the metal, This stuff dries to a hard surface, I then used a 3m pad to scuff up the etch primer in preparation for the paint primer.

Paint primer is(4:1) 4 parts primer to 1 part activator.

Once dry i sanded to 400 grit. ready for paint, you can do 600 grit but i dont care.

I'm going base coat clear coat, i thought about shooting the car myself, but i decided not to play the mr. shop guy.

The clear is very tricky to get right, if you dont get it right, ther'll be waves from going thick and thin, not to mention the mess you'll have on your hands if the clear starts to run. this is why i found a local guy who paints car day in day out.

The base coat clear coat is more expensive, but imo is a better job, The clear coat gives that deep lush look, just an idea but spray the exterior base coat/clear and spray the engine bay and wherever else with the urethane paint.

The hardest part for me is choosing the color

[esty]

are you doing it yourself of having a shop do it...if a shop's doing it, rely on what he/she knows best...

bc/cc for a beginner is the most forgiving...etch primer is old tech...no used much today...epoxy works much better to prime and seal

[02fanatic]

My experience with the '02's that I've had painted is that the two-step process is the best. Also, if your shop is any good they will sand between coats...no orange peel is "very nice" to have, trust me!

One step painting is fine as well, but I agree the end result will not be as deep & lush looking. The clearcoat simply accentuates the color better.

[TobyB]

etch primer is old tech...no used much today

but still a good idea if you're back to bare metal- epoxy doesn't stick all that well to bare, unkeyed steel. Or if there's a chance there's some rust left.

No, really, when in doubt, use it. It never hurts.

t

[esty]

but still a good idea if you're back to bare metal- epoxy doesn't stick all that well to bare, unkeyed steel. Or if there's a chance there's some rust left.

No, really, when in doubt, use it. It never hurts.

t

absolutely incorrect...most of the moderns paints are not compatible with the old technology etch primers...if you read enough mfrs p-sheets, you'll see it's not widely recommended...some even tell you not to use it or they won't guarantee their products

epoxy offers far superior adhesion and rust protection over bare metal than anything that is or has ever been available

[trangieboy]

i will be using epoxy over the bare metal and then putting the bog over that.Then more epoxy over the bog.I will follow the instructions in a book called "restore your ride".

What i really want to know is the uethane any good ? Seems like less actual spraying than the base/clear.I`ll be doing all work my self,for better or worse.

What about xmembers and subframes,struts,trailing arms,ect. All will be sand blasted to bare metal before getting epoxy then a black of some type.I guess they were originally NOT gloss black ??

Any idea`s ???

Mal.

[esty]

i will be using epoxy over the bare metal and then putting the bog over that.Then more epoxy over the bog

What i really want to know is the uethane any good ? Seems like less actual spraying than the base/clear.I`ll be doing all work my self,for better or worse.

What about xmembers and subframes,struts,trailing arms,ect. All will be sand blasted to bare metal before getting epoxy then a black of some type.I guess they were originally NOT gloss black ??

Any idea`s ???

Mal.

i assume you're calling filler primer "bog...it's a waste of time & materials spray more epoxy on top of the filler/sanding primer...it will serve no purpose and could actually cause more work that you ask'd for...you have a very strickt window of time to re-coat epoxy...missing that window means you have to sand it all again to insure a mechanical bond of the next coat of material...no one that i know, have ever spoke to or does this for a living sprays epoxy over 2k....once the 2k's blocks flat, you go directly to paint

urethane paint is the toughest on the market today...it's a single stage paint, easy to spray, etc however i would not even consider a single stage if you're planning on a metallic or pearl paint...it's difficult enough to paint metallic with base, getting the metallic even without tiger stripping....if you have orange peal in a ss metallic, you can't sand it flat, it disturbs the metallic patterns..overall, with any color, you'll find base coat/clear coat a lot more forgiving, easier to spray and easier to repair if you have a run, get trash in the paint, etc..and you don't use nearly as much color as you'll use with a single stage material

if this is your 1st time, i'd highly suggest a lot of practice before you aim the gun at your car...although it seems simple enough, gun settings, and your technique can and will make of break a paint job

re; your frames, etc...you're doing good to epoxy then paint with whatever toots your horn

having just blown a lot of hot air giving advise...it's your car, your money, do what makes you happy...live and learn is the best medicine

[trangieboy]

Thanks esty.By `bog` i meant plastic body filler.I have a few small stone dents in the front panel and a rust repair to be welded in also.I will get the metal as smooth as possible then `bog` over it and sand back a couple of times to really get it flat.

So do you think black urethane would be good on all the other bits.Sounds like it`s tough.

Colour is non metalic,sahara 006.

P.S. love the Al blog.I reckon the business name says it all. "seems" perfect !!!

[esty]

Thanks esty.By `bog` i meant plastic body filler.I have a few small stone dents in the front panel and a rust repair to be welded in also.I will get the metal as smooth as possible then `bog` over it and sand back a couple of times to really get it flat.

So do you think black urethane would be good on all the other bits.Sounds like it`s tough.

Colour is non metalic,sahara 006.

P.S. love the Al blog.I reckon the business name says it all. "seems" perfect !!!

bog=body filler...ok...you don't need my help, you're on the right path..

urethane is the toughest top coating (paint) money can buy but again, i'd save some serious bucks buying automotive paint...use something like rustoleum...i've used it on every car i own and on 25 year old restorations, it's still standing strong

with your choice of body colors, i think you'll do just fine with urethane with base coat clear coat systems, the clear is urethane...the only difference is, it's so easy to spray base coat and correct errors before you get to the clear coat...and if you need to or want to color sand bc/cc, you're sanding the clear and not the color topcoat...the paint doesn't get disturbed

i assume you're in europe...if so terminology may be a bit different...some things we refer to as one thing, you refer to as another, when we're actually taking about the same things