SOT: Thoughts on an E3 (1974 3.0S)?

['02onthebrain]

I'm checking out a 1974 3.0S tomorrow and wanted to get some thoughts on the model in general. It looks to be in good to very good shape and is at a very good price. It's an auto, which is a major drawback, but at this price it may be worth it. As an '02 owner, I know all of the standard things to look at, rust, etc. Just trying to get some thoughts on the model.

[TTyMiller]

I love the 3.0 and if it's a great price, you can always drop a manual in one day. One day leaves you something to look forward to also.

[f1reverb]

http://www.seniorsix.org

There's an E3 Buyer's Guide at the site. You should get it for three figures or less.

Too bad you missed the E3 cruise and party last weekend. Here's some pix . . .

E3 Fest West

[Guest Anonymous]

watch out for the original solex two barrel downdraft carbs they should be replaced with Weber 32/36

[Guest Anonymous]

had a POS for a head. They would overheat and warp. Get a compression reading if possible.And the carbs are junk definitley go weber.......Richard

[Guest Anonymous]

I thought that the problem with the heads was caused by the thermal reactor

[Gordon]

I have a 73 Bavaria that I did the automatic to a 5 speed conversion. Best thing I ever did to that car, it was transformed into a car that is really fun to drive.

The E3 3.0S model (only available in 73-74) is the fancy version of the Bavaria, it came loaded with all the luxury features, leather interior, power windows, sunroof, etc.. Finding a 3.0S in a manual gearbox is rare. Just like 2002's, the pre big bumpers (73 and earlier) are more in demand. You can find some great deals on big bumper E3's.

G-Man

91 318i

74 2002tii

73 Bavaria, 5 speed, Webers, bilstein's, E24 BBS basketweaves, etc..

70 E3 2800, 4 speed, Euro spec, totally stock

['02onthebrain]

Ok, so I just got back from checking it out, not a bad car. Here are some pics: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/234987799.html

I think I could probably get it for $1,000, he wants to get rid of it badly. Still has the old solex carb, had to pour gas into the carb to get the car started. Engine ran strong, shifted hard though as the auto tranny is probably on its last legs. The car pulled hard to the left when braking. The interior isn't that bad for such an old car. No rust problems, only a little surface rust on the rear doors. The paint is showing wear, it would need a new paint job. So here are a few questions:

How much would the auto-manual swap cost? Probably beyond my experience to tackle myself.

How much would a decent, middle of the road paint job cost?

How much would new/used Weber carbs cost?

Bottom line, is it worth it?

Thanks in advance.

[Guest Anonymous]

Only you can decide that. all we can offer is our opinions as to a reasonable value.

[Guest Anonymous]

They actually changed the location of the cooling ports on the head.... $1000 soundshigh I would think 6-8 hundred. I have thesame car and while loving it I always wear my Admirals hat.....Richard

[MichaelP]

Ignore previous post. First of all, the original Zenith 35/40 INATs are tricky to adjust, mostly due to being both water and electric choke, but any mechanic worth his salt can tune them just fine. Lazy/shitty mechanics often convince customers to replace them, as somehow the myth about Zeniths far exceeded the problem.

Second, DGAV/DGEV 32/36s on a big six suck -- or rather, they don't suck enough. While they work fine around town on the primaries, due the lack of comparitive air volume, on cam with the secondaries open they just make the big six feel like it's out of breath before you even get to 5000 rpm.

A 2.8 or 3.0L needn't be avoided with DGAVs, but don't buy the myth about Zeniths. It's bullshit.

[MichaelP]

I don't know if you saw my other post about this, but please see it regarding the Zeniths vs Webers. Zenith rebuild kits are cheap and available and the job is easy.

Please please please don't use 32/36s. You'll regret it.

Here's the thing: 32/36s just don't provide enough cfm compared to the Zenith INAT 35/40s. I've owned E9 coupes (same motor as the E3) with INATs and DGAVs, and the DGAVs are pitiful with the secondaries open. Another Weber option might be 38/38, but they're syncronous rather than progressive carbs, so fuel consumption can be high. We won't even talk about triple 40s...

If you do want to ditch the Zeniths, save your money and swap in L-jet or Motronic EFI. It will cost less than new carbs and be more reliable as well.

edit: $1k is reasonable for an E3. It sounds like it hasn't been run in a while, so plan on mechanical problems popping up as the sludge breaks loose -- clogged fuel lines, sump bypass valve, etc.

[MichaelP]

Thermal reactors are found on early US e12s, not E3's. The early M30 heads had a bad cooling passage design. Look for a stamp on the left side of the head with a 1/4" high 2 digit stamp inside a circle. That's the casting year of the head. '83 and up is good. Anything earlier should be replaced, but is easy to find. Chances are if it's still running it's been replaced.

[DukeRimmer]

I have spare carbs, both brands, four speeds, flywheels, pedal units, etc.... all very cheap. Please forgive me for dumping several tons of e3 parts. Had to make room for more '02 stuff.

['02onthebrain]

Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming. So how much should a 4-speed swap cost?