SHORT BLOCK COMPLETED!! (no, I'm not rimspoke, just excited)

[Guest]

I finished the short block tonight. Here are some pics, with and without oil pan:

Now, it is on to taking the old motor out of the touring. Then need to prep the car for the car fuel injection: (1) replumb the fuel lines; (2) air filter housing tabs; and (3) brake booster.

[BLUNT]

(nt)

[skipsfcr]

I remember one of your posts (i think) about interference between the crank and block. Did you clearance the crank throw area yourself?

[Guest]

yes, I used an S14 crank and I ground out the reliefs in the block myself with a dremel tool. took many hours.

[DavinSF]

(nt)

[Guest]

Thanks. That's your old oil pump in there, dude!

[jerry]

crankshaft in an 02 engine, for a trogladyte like myself? i like the idea that the engine appears untouched from the outside. what other mods if any will be required?

thanks

[robspeed]

2.3 stroker crank + long duration cam = lowend torque and power on high end to go with it

[Guest]

You need to do mods to the crank shaft itself to make it fit the M10 -- grinding down the nose of the crank to fit the M10 front main seal and tii pulley or (if non-tii) you can leave it S14 size and use S14 front seal. Otherwise it bolts in.

Benefits are increased displacement -- it has a longer stroke. With my pistons (92.5mm? -- I forget exactly off the top of my head), I am getting about 2.18 liters. With a big enough bore you can get 2.3, but it has risks as there may not be enough distance between the bores and the internal intregrity of the block could be compromised.

But, as you they say, cubic inches = horsepower.

[robspeed]

(nt)

[Guest]

schrick 304; J&E 10.0:1 (or is 10.5:1?) pistons; Alpina A4 injection (with Alpina K-fish pump); Alpina "bag of snake" headers; something else relevant that escapes me at midnight PST. If Alpina's numbers on the A4S are correct (170bhp), I should get a few more phonies from the slightly hotter cam and the increased displacement. Should also have enough torque to make up for the cam on street driving. We'll see.

[jerry]

after you've trouble shooted your system, a nice 'lessons-learned' would be most appreciated. is fuel injection required for this setup?

[Anthony]

If you are using 92.5,mm for your bore (46.25 radius) then you are very close to 2.25litres.

I am still curious why you needed to do so much clearancing of the block. I have now built 3 of these motors (2 with s14 rods which are 9mm londer then m10 rods) and one with a set of pauters also 144mm and didn't have to do any of that. There is one spot where the casting/webbing around a timing cover bolt has to be given 0.50 of clearance but nothing like this.

M10's have a very short rod for the given stroke (135mm\80mm=1.6875) and with the same rod and longer stroke= 1.6071. There is a bit more performance to be found by going to a longer rod in an m10 especially in the upper rpm range where the limits of the m10 are found. My old Dave Cruse/ metric mechanic motor used an 136mm rod from an audi. A trip to the dyno showed it ran into a brick wall with regards to breathing at around 6000 RPMs, my new motor loves to rev to 7000 RPMs go figure.

Brian Pauter told me that an 87mm stroke crank evoIII will work in an m10 block with his rods without the clearancing you have described.

I would be worried that at the base of the cylinder that area would be subjected to significant expansion and contraction and may induce a crack? Any thoughts?

Good luck with the motor can't wait to see it all set up and the dyno results to come back. It will be a blast trust me!

[Guest]

The rods cleared, but not within the spec. I clearenced them a little further than spec purposefully just in case. It very well might have worked with not modification at all, but given that the piston doesn't even go down that far (at least not the rings), I didn't see any down side. Time will tell.

[Anthony]

Just curious but how much is not within spec? 0.50"?