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Stub Axle Install Difficulties


paulyg
Go to solution Solved by TobyB,

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I am in the final stages of building a set of trailing arms. The bearings and seals went in with major difficulty- I really should have invested in a press. The stub axle, however, was a whole 'nuther thing. It did NOT want to accept  the bearing inner races. Brand-new axles and bearings. I had to use my vice with a jack handle to press the axle all the way against the inner race. There were some really not-fun-sounding pops as it ratcheted its way in. I also (stupidly) tested the other set of bearings with the other axle, and it's the same story. Basically an interference fit. 

 

The axle is in the freezer to hopefully make the next install easier- has anyone else encountered this?

 

PS I discovered AFTER everything was installed that the seals are not meant to be driven all the way in. I checked the other set and I think I'm OK (no contact of the rubber with the bearing cage or inner race) but it seems like a strange omission from the workshop manual and from the FAQ how-to. 

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  • Solution

All the time.

 

And doing it in a press (disassembly) is difficult, as it's VERY hard to make a good jig to

support the arm in such a way that pressure only gets transferred through the outer collar

and doesn't bend the arm.  I usually whallop them out with a big brass hammer,

and then press them in if the threads won't protrude enough to get a nut onto them.

Then a bunch of shims to keep pulling against the inner race.

 

The first time it makes that noise you do tend to check to see if you have all your teeth, fingers,

and a spare pair of undies...

 

t

with great press comes great possibility for graunching the bearings.

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Update- I froze the other stub for 2 hours and it basically dropped right in. Needed a few whacks to seat fully but the vice was avoided this time. 
 

What I’m more proud of was what I call the Bearing Sucker 5000:IMG_1719.thumb.jpeg.a5ab0265d2d46a85b05858e410341989.jpeg

 

It’s a spring compressor, hogged out wheel spacer, the 36mm socket I originally used to vice-press in the bearings, and some other hardware. Combining this with freezing the (already packed) bearings made for a much nicer time. Easier to keep everything square too. 

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Ok follow on question. Everything is back together and torqued down to spec, thanks to a torque multiplier from work. Something that’s bugging me is that the drag on each axle is different. Both are pretty firm, but the driver’s side turns noticeably easier than the passenger’s side. Both are pretty silent and there are no weird spots or grinds on either. How much drag is typical due to seals/bearing grease?

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50 minutes ago, paulyg said:

How much drag is typical due to seals/bearing grease?

Run it as is for a hundered miles or so if no problems arise, then check it again they should be pretty close to each other.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Hope the bearing spacers were not mixed up from side to side and the spacer/bearing/housing dimensions were checked or the bearing pre-load can be excessive on one side.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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