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Driver side (LHS) motor mount change question


sam1904

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Hi, struggling with the driver side motor amount as I am struggling to get any meaningful torque on the bolts (red) that hold the bracket to the block (I am also worried that even if I do get them off I will then not be able to get enough torque back on them to be confident in that bracket not moving).
Do these definitely need to come off or if I just release the nuts (yellow) on the mount itself has anybody had any luck rocking the motor over enough to allow the threaded rods to escape the brackets?

BB13512B-9690-4901-B948-952ED35E7E4A.jpeg

2022 Defender 110 30th Edition

1976 BMW 2002 - Evolving...

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Going to secure / lift under the sump (carefully) with a Jack and wooden  block.
 

Just to be sure I understand - are you saying it is, or is not possible to move the motor enough to remove the rubber mount without removing the engine block mounted bracket? It is the bolts securing that bracket to the engine block that I am not able to break in the space I have.

 

 Thanks

 Sam

 

 

 

2022 Defender 110 30th Edition

1976 BMW 2002 - Evolving...

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Engine block mounting bracket & rubber mount needs to come out one piece. If you can yank that rubber block out without moving it’s engine side bracket i’d say your rh rubber block is toasted.

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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Thanks all,

Just installed the new drivers (LHS) side and noticed with the washer and deep flanged nylock that was in place there is not a lot of thread engagement on the outside bolt and definitely not any contact with the nylock element.

 

What nut should be used here (parts diagram don't see to give any dimensions).

  • Should there be a washer against the slotted subframe mount element - if so flat or spring?
  • Should it be a plain, flanged or nylock nut?

 

Thanks
Sam

2022 Defender 110 30th Edition

1976 BMW 2002 - Evolving...

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