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It's going to be 100 degrees time to fix the heater


lewisfoto

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You can reach around to the back side and feel whether the lever on the valve is moving as it should.  

 

The little screw that holds the lever on the valve had come loose on my car, so it wasn't rotating.  I tightened that screw and my valve worked again. 

 

It would have been nice if they'd put the lever on the side you can see, but you may be able to use a mirror and flashlight to get a look at it.

 

Tom

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On 9/3/2021 at 10:38 PM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

You can reach around to the back side and feel whether the lever on the valve is moving as it should.  

 

The little screw that holds the lever on the valve had come loose on my car, so it wasn't rotating.  I tightened that screw and my valve worked again. 

 

It would have been nice if they'd put the lever on the side you can see, but you may be able to use a mirror and flashlight to get a look at it.

 

Tom

It's been a busy weekend and haven't been able to try this until today. I only have two hands and it takes three to hold the mirror and the flashlight while working the control for heat. I had an assistant move the control while I looked behind the dash. I could see controls move for the fan switch and the defrost but couldn't see the heater control at all. I can hear the lever moving the wire but can't see it to confirm anything.

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8 minutes ago, Eissmann said:

I can hear the lever moving the wire but can't see it to confirm anything.

 Can you simply reach around to the back side and feel the orientation of the lever with the control in the dash in the on/off position?  You can also try to wiggle the lever and feel if there is any play at the valve.  That might indicate that the screw that holds it on is loose.  That was my problem and an easy fix.  Maybe you'll get lucky too.

Tom

 

EDIT-  I am talking about the valve in the space by the fan, under the hood.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

   

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9 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 Can you simply reach around to the back side and feel the orientation of the lever with the control in the dash in the on/off position?  You can also try to wiggle the lever and feel if there is any play at the valve.  That might indicate that the screw that holds it on is loose.  That was my problem and an easy fix.  Maybe you'll get lucky too.

Tom

 

EDIT-  I am talking about the valve in the space by the fan, under the hood.

This makes more sense to me now.  I can see where the wire connects to the lever on the valve  and can see the lever move when the control for cool and warm is manipulated, If the wire appears to be properly connected, the issue is the valve itself may be stuck open? 

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29 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Yes.  My lever moved, but did not twist the valve.

There is a 7mm bolt head on the pivot point of the valve control lever. When I turn the bolt it doesn't get any tighter. Feels like the nut is turning too. I will look for a diagram to see what it connects to.

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The bolt that hooks the Bowden cable to the valve lever, if original,  is sholdered and will pinch the wire but still rotate in the lever, this is so the lever can move in it's arc and not bend the cable. On the valve stem take your best sharpie and make a line then go and move the lever to the other side if the mark doesn't move the lever is loose or stripped where it bolts to the valve, if the lever doesn't move the cable is broken or unhooked.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Honestly, just take the box out and not only rebuild the valve bot put new foam on the flappers and back flush the core, if the flaps leak you'll never get real hot or real cold air out of it and new foam can be had cheap if you source it your self.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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