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Distributor rebuild parts - alternate sources?


02Pilot

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On 9/10/2018 at 11:18 PM, mike said:

Made bushing pullers from suitably ground down washers and long machine screws; worked like a charm.

Now I know how to get the bushings out of my throttle body for the renovation!

Thanks Mike!

1972 BMW Inka 2002Tii  ?

1974 BMW Turkis 3.0 CSi ?

1972 MBZ Weiss 280SE 4.5 

2006 BMW Cobalt 530i (38,700 m original)

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11 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I find that bamboo skewers make good temporary pins, if you split one end and add a little shim.

The most used, and useful tool in my box... the bamboo chopstick! ?

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1972 BMW Inka 2002Tii  ?

1974 BMW Turkis 3.0 CSi ?

1972 MBZ Weiss 280SE 4.5 

2006 BMW Cobalt 530i (38,700 m original)

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13 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

No. The idea is NOT to drill the shaft. 

 

If you'll read my second post in this thread, it talks about this process.

 

In the parts description, they call it a grooved pin, I believe.  Those probably help it grip, or something.  Maybe it gives the steel someplace to go, when it is driven in tight?  If you know you don't want to get back in there then spend the $6 for a pin and peen it in.  I've not had trouble with my roll pin and I like the easy accessibility it gives me.

 

These roll pins are .750" long and the gear top diameter is around .700", so a little sticks out at each end; but that does not seem to matter.  This 5/32" roll pin measured .164" before stretching.

 

I measured a factory pin I'd punched out and the fat end is .163" and the skinny is .158", so five thousandths difference.  The hole through the shaft is not tapered, I don't believe; or at least not much. 

 

The pin is .158" through the shaft and then the larger bit happens in the gear hole. 

 

As mentioned, the gear has one hole that is larger and needs to be aligned with this punch mark on the bottom of the shaft.


I find that bamboo skewers make good temporary pins, if you split one end and add a little shim.

 

 

Thanks, Tom.

 

The 4x20 tension pins I have ought to work fine in that case.  They are quite a bit more than 4 mm, uncompressed but I assume they will compress.

 

I have about 1 mm or more of axial play so I'll add a bunch of shims from a donor distributor.  I shouldn't need to disturb anything on the top end of the distributor, just pull off the gear, add shims and refit the gear.  Am I missing anything?  Bushing seems okay.

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If you are drilling the pin and pulling the gear, why not pull the shaft?

 

you may be missing the fiber washer inside the body.   that is the one that usually fails (first).  I forget exactly, but they are approximately .032" - .034" thick.  ((! .8128 mm - .8636 mm  !))

 

If yours still has a fiber washer above the gear and you have a bunch of slop you've got to open it up and put a new one in there. 

 

Good to get in there for cleaning/lubrication anyway. 

Just don't mix up all the puzzle pieces upon reassembly. 

The bits wear to 'fit' together, so, as you say, don't "disturb anything". 

 

Inspect/clean/lube/shim/pin/install/plot the curve/set the timing/test drive/report back!

 

edit- check your pin's fit in the larger hole on the gear.  you might want to splay one end.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

   

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12 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

If you are drilling the pin and pulling the gear, why not pull the shaft?

 

you may be missing the fiber washer inside the body.   that is the one that usually fails (first).  I forget exactly, but they are approximately .032" - .034" thick.  ((! .8128 mm - .8636 mm  !))

 

If yours still has a fiber washer above the gear and you have a bunch of slop you've got to open it up and put a new one in there. 

 

Hi,

 

My dizzy has a Crane optical pickup in there.  Visual examination shows that the shutter wheel is hitting the upper arm of the slotted optical sensor (there's a nice groove worn into the shutter wheel).  This means the shaft is riding up, not down and therefore, I have to pick up the slack at the gear end.

 

Besides, all this will be moot when my EFI setup goes in, which is why I'm reluctant to do a full disassembly.

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Will power, lots of it :)

 

Here's how I can resist - I took apart that donor unit and realized that there were far too many fiddly bits in the thing that could go wrong.  Given that I just need to fix this for temporary use, there is far more downside than upside in my taking it apart.

 

Must. Not. Open. The. Top.

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