No power on hills, blue smoke, jerky engine - all timing related?

[ray_]

https://www.google.com/search?q=adding+atf+to+oil&rlz=1C1CHMO_enUS713US713&oq=adding+atf+to+oil&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l4.3700j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[backeis]

Alright fellas. Got the techron and ATF. While shopping I also noticed some other products that seem to do what we expect the ATF to do.

Any experience with those being better or worse? I'll dump one of the three into the crankcase today. Which one should it be? [emoji3]

[backeis]

I went with both of the Rislone products and the two bottles of Techron on a fresh tank of premium gas. Also dialed back the timing a bit. Not hearing any backfires anymore and car is no longer jerking, so I think I was too advanced before.

Only got about 60 miles of driving in and couldn't go WOT too much (NYC traffic).

Still the occasional cloud of blue smoke and the same amount of blow-by, but the engine runs buttery smooth and quiet now (must be that super thick sticky Rislone stuff).

Will report again when the tank is empty.

But considering I only get occasional and momentary blue smoke (apart from the constant blow-by out of my open catch can): would this point at deposits being broken loose rather than a constant problem of an out-of-tune engine?

[02Pilot]

Deposits breaking loose will generally end up in the oil, and thus the filter, rather than burning and heading out the exhaust. The smoke is oil burning off; the two are not related except in that deposits removed from the rings and ring lands may allow for better oil control and thus less consumption. That the smoke is reduced is more likely due to increasing the viscosity of the oil via the additives. Generally, smoke on deceleration is oil coming through the valve seals, and on acceleration coming through the rings. It's likely both have some degree of blow-by.

 

Run it hard once it's hot - if you can get out of the city it would be better, but just run it hard. Abrupt throttle transitions (snap open or shut) may help to dislodge ring deposits, again only once it's hot. See where you're at once the tank is done.

Edited August 26, 2018 by Andrej

[Jimmy]

5 hours ago, backeis said:

But considering I only get occasional and momentary blue smoke (apart from the constant blow-by out of my open catch can): would this point at deposits being broken loose rather than a constant problem of an out-of-tune engine?

 

Does the occasional blue smoke seem worse when you first apply the throttle after coasting in gear for a bit?

[backeis]

I think it only appears on deceleration after moments of heavy throttle and high RPM, but I'll have to study it some more to be certain.

[backeis]

Guys. Update here. Ran the tank empty.

I didn't have any big clouds of blue smoke like I did when timing was advanced and before I had done the additives.

I still get the occasional small puff of blue (or white? Grey?) smoke out the catch can, but engine runs very smooth and quiet. I'm liking it much more than when timing was slightly advanced. Power seems good to.

Where do I go from here? Ignore until I rebuild the engine? Work on timing? Do a vacuum test?

Thanks guys!
Erik

['76mintgrün'02]

5 minutes ago, backeis said:

Work on timing? Do a vacuum test?

 

Do you really want me to answer your timing question?

Do you know where your timing is set, other than 'less advanced'?

 

By 'vacuum test' I assume you mean compression test?
That would still be useful information.

 

Glad to hear it is running better/smoking less.

Sounds like progress.

 

I can certainly relate to sneaking up on these things.

I am finally installing the AFR gauge I bought six years ago.

(I can tell you quite a bit about my timing though!)

[backeis]

Hehe.

Was considering getting the 123 distributor. But does that cope well with a leaky engine?

And yeah, thinking I should do all the diagnostics on compression, vacuum, leak down, oil pressure.

[Roland]

On 9/6/2018 at 5:40 PM, backeis said:

I didn't have any big clouds of blue smoke like I did when timing was advanced and before I had done the additives.

I still get the occasional small puff of blue (or white? Grey?) smoke out the catch can, but engine runs very smooth and quiet. I'm liking it much more than when timing was slightly advanced. Power seems good to.

Where do I go from here? Ignore until I rebuild the engine? Work on timing? Do a vacuum test?

On 9/6/2018 at 6:02 PM, backeis said:

Hehe.

Was considering getting the 123 distributor. But does that cope well with a leaky engine?
And yeah, thinking I should do all the diagnostics on compression, vacuum, leak down, oil pressure.

 

This may not be the response you were looking for but the answers to most of your questions rest primarily with you.

 

Some people might be content to run a 4 cylinder engine, with only 3 of the 4 cylinders operational.  Others might fret over an engine with a slightly discolored oil filter label and a dusty dash cover.  Some drivers might be content to drive a car with worn, mismatched tires and windshield cracks, while others would not walk near such a car, let alone drive it.  Separate and apart from any obvious safety concerns, if you are content with the way your car/engine performs, drive it until you lose your contentment or circumstances require a change.  (If you are married you should understand this.)

 

What do you expect to gain by a new ignition system?  Unless your current ignition system is kaput, Installation of a 123 distributor or other ignition upgrades are as relevant to "a leaky engine" as new upholstery or new struts.  Since you do not know exactly what part of the engine is "leaky," why not focus your efforts in that direction?  You may find that all that is needed is a simple valve job, rather than an entire rebuild.

Edited September 8, 2018 by Roland

[Roland]

5 minutes ago, Roland said:

 

 

Edited September 7, 2018 by Roland

[2002Scoob]

Hehe.

Was considering getting the 123 distributor. But does that cope well with a leaky engine?

And yeah, thinking I should do all the diagnostics on compression, vacuum, leak down, oil pressure.

In triage fashion...

That’s likely throwing money at a problem that doesn’t sound like it’s in need of fixing.

Pick up a timing light, confirm where you’re at. It’ll prove invaluable for the rest of your internal combustion life.

Get or perform a compression and leakdown test, and use the money you saved on the 123 to fix the real problem. You’ll be happy, because you’ll need that money if it’s looking like your motor needs to be torn down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[backeis]

15 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

Pick up a timing light

Can you recommend one? I see there's a wide range of features and types. Inductive, Advance, Digital, ... Thanks!

 

['76mintgrün'02]

6 minutes ago, backeis said:

Can you recommend one?

I can (and often do) recommend the Innova 5568.

($100 to your door, last I looked)

 

((now we are getting somewhere!))

[backeis]

Ordered!