Unique early 1600 inner wheel bearing/seal?

[Edgar L.]

 

My May 67 has a remote booster and single circuit system. Visually the spindle seems smaller haven't compared side by side. So my questions are: is there a unique inner front bearing and seal?

 

 

The replacement skf units I bought seem to not be the correct piece side by side to the old ones.

 

In my searches I stumbled over a few comments on the early inner bearing being unique. This link: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/125815-1600-suspension-question/

 

I looked up a part number but comes NLA. The superseded number claims to cover all year 67-76.

 

Thank you in advance all help is highly appreciated.

 

Edgar

 

Edited April 5, 2017 by Edgar L.

[TobyB]

So if the part number shows the bearing to be unique,

 

there are at least 2 ways to go:

get the dimensions by measurement (the stub axle and the inside of the hub)

OR they are sometimes in the RealOEM listing,

and then start looking for a tapered roller of that dimension.  For example, the

NLA pinion bearing for a late 320i is the same as a 60's Mopar, so it's easily available.

 

The other route is to look for a number on the bearing itself, and on the seal-

very often, the number will be the dimensions:outer, inner, and thickness.

 

And you can always walk into a bearing house with the cone and the race, and they

WILL be able to find you one.  Likewise, the seal.

 

OR you could always use this as an excuse to change over to the later parts-

the early brakes are the only NK brakes I've ever seen fail on the track- Brian Capp actually set the pads on fire.

And they were race pads.

 

You'll find a way to fix this, probably quite inexpensively.

 

t

 

[NickVyse]

Yep, they're different - last time I changed mine (Oct '67/remote booster/single circuit) walloth and nesch had the correct size in stock.

[HBChris]

The seal and inner bearing changed at VINs:  1602 1542523, 1602US 1561461, 1600-2 Ti 1582252 and 1602 rhd 1550527.  It really helps to have the factory parts books as you can't find this in RealOEM.

[Edgar L.]

Thank you for all of your help sincerely,

I located the correct seal from the dealer and a workable bearing from taking measurements and matching at the auto parts store. The bearing is from a trailer hitch [emoji23] and is a direct match.


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[Edgar L.]

So if the part number shows the bearing to be unique,
 
there are at least 2 ways to go:
get the dimensions by measurement (the stub axle and the inside of the hub)
OR they are sometimes in the RealOEM listing,
and then start looking for a tapered roller of that dimension.  For example, the
NLA pinion bearing for a late 320i is the same as a 60's Mopar, so it's easily available.
 
The other route is to look for a number on the bearing itself, and on the seal-
very often, the number will be the dimensions:outer, inner, and thickness.
 
And you can always walk into a bearing house with the cone and the race, and they
WILL be able to find you one.  Likewise, the seal.
 
OR you could always use this as an excuse to change over to the later parts-
the early brakes are the only NK brakes I've ever seen fail on the track- Brian Capp actually set the pads on fire.
And they were race pads.
 
You'll find a way to fix this, probably quite inexpensively.
 
t
 

Your comments made all the difference. I needed someone to snap me out my "If I don't buy it from the stealer it isn't the right part" mindset. A little effort and the best part is I spent pennies.

Thank you


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[TobyB]

I love that your replacement comes from a trailer hitch!
 

One caveat- with it, in your hand, compare the 2 with a good measuring tool.

(which can just be a very flat surface and straight edge.

Just to be safe...

 

There are very few truly 'unique' bearings used in production things-

it's just so much easier and cheaper to use standard sizes...

 

t