Heater box Bowden cables NLA--anyone have a NOS stash?

[bigcitrus]

So I need to pull my heater box to deal with some issues (flappy-clangy noises probably due to missing felt, defrost/heat control stuck), and I was advised by a friend to replace the double/Bowden/temp control cable (64 11 1 351 484) while I'm in there. But, all of the normal places (Rogerstii, Maximilian, Blunttech, dealer) are coming up NLA. Anyone know of a NOS stash? 

 

Mine is (currently) intact so it's not critical, but I guess it's one of those while-you're-in-there things. On the subject of that...anything else I should do while I'm in there? My fan and everything else besides the two above issues seem fine, for now....

[lilmo]

Take it apart first.  Unlikely to be a cable issue.

[bigcitrus]

Right, yeah, I realize my other problems likely aren't linked to the cable, I just was advised to pop in a new one while the box was out and apart.

[lilmo]

The cables are bulletproof. NLA because no demand for new. Lube them if you want.  Spend the $ on the box rebuild & maybe a replacement heather control valve.  And/or a new fan.

 

GL!

Edited March 9, 2017 by lilmo

[bigcitrus]

Good info, thanks. I'll reinstall the originals and focus my attention elsewhere. 

[ray_]

I have used ones here. But like Lilmo said, they'll outlast the car.

 

Do look at the heater box refurb instructions posted in tech articles here. I'm attached the pdf of it, since the pics online are... not....

 

Cheers,

 

 

heater_box_removal_and_refurbishment.pdf

[halboyles]

One of the  single cables is still available:  https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/cable-for-defrost-unit-64-07-22.html .  You can twist one end of it to fit the other single cable very easily.  The dual cable can be fabricated from choke wire for lawnmowers.

 

The cables do break, twist and the ends become unusable.  The interior of the sheath also breaks down creating drag on the cable.  Most users have forgotten what smooth operating cables feel like until they replace them.

 

You could also use some of these to replace the missing grommets for the flap pivots:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/191497382267?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.  See photo.

[Mike Self]

The dinging/clanging sound is probably the freewheeling fan (turned off) hitting the cold air mixer door, so when you reassemble everything test to make sure you solved the problem.  IIRC a little trimming of the door will keep it away from the fan.

 

mike

[Russell74Fjord]

what fun ! BENCH TEST,,, PRIOR to installing, operate all flap, cables, while fan is running,,

 

that fan is some NuTone  replacement fan that required some slight sanding on the inside of the heater  box, vs. the fan, and unbalancing it.

 

don't move the balancing weights clipped to the metal fan blades, if you want to re-use it,

 

there is another post (try search) where someone mentions the replacement fan they found, mine shown here is nylon, lighter, pushes  just fine.

[Mike Self]

Blunt lists the double wire control cable on his site as available https://blunttech.com/products?prod_category=R, P/N 64111351484 for a little over $20 if it turns out you need it...

 

mike

[bigcitrus]

Yeah, Roger's Tii also listed it as available--but they're NLA from BMW, so it's a matter of whether or not someone still has one sitting on the shelf. Which, as of right now, Roger, Blunt, and Maximilian all do not.