body and interior Suggestions on fixing paint

[theNomad]

Thanks, thats what i was envisioning. What grit do you uae to scuff before paint? 400 seems too rough?

I didnt yet see if they cleared or if they used single stage. I was getting white from the original paint and not sure what they used at maaco. Getting rid of the hard grey line and the ivory chamonix color would go a long way to make it a 10ft car.

[nbcbird]

Try a little solvent (lacquer thinner) and see if you can remove the primer.  And the trick in blending paint edges is to roll the masking tape back over itself (to form a round loop) where the blending occurs.  And finally, most body shops will tell you white is THE hardest color to match.

Edited December 12, 2016 by nbcbird

[solo 2]

10 hours ago, theNomad said:

Thanks, thats what i was envisioning. What grit do you uae to scuff before paint? 400 seems too rough?

I didnt yet see if they cleared or if they used single stage. I was getting white from the original paint and not sure what they used at maaco. Getting rid of the hard grey line and the ivory chamonix color would go a long way to make it a 10ft car.

800 grit should be plenty rough for a recoat. BASF/RM makes a paint called Uno, a single stage paint but you need a gun to shoot it. I've only used it once for a new paint job, works good but it takes some getting used to as it shoots like water. Most paint jobs are base/clear.

[dang]

What I do...

 

--  If you're painting over an area that already has paint and just needs touching up and blending I use 800 grit, but you're not trying to take a bunch of paint off, just make it dull.

--  Get the paint matched by either driving the car down to the shop or better yet, take a piece of metal that's the correct color and have it matched.  It won't be perfect.

--  Determine if you need base/clear or single stage.  Take a dark towel and use some polishing compound and see if any white shows up on the towel.  If yes, its single stage.  If no, it has clearcoat.

--  Have them make an aerosol can with the base/color.  If its two-stage get some Jam-it clear in an aerosol can.  They should be $20 to $25 each.

--  Make sure the sanded area is much larger than your painting area.  Allow a foot or so more than where you plan to paint.

--  Paint the base and blend, leaving enough sanded area to paint clear past the color but not all the way to the edge of the sanded area.

--  Wet sand the entire sanded area with 1500 grit.

--  Cut with cutting compound (or rubbing compound), then polishing compound.

 

For the holes you might consider using white grommets to plug them.  It won't look great but it would look better than trying to fill them and it not turning out very good because you don't have the right material.

 

[esty]

10 hours ago, theNomad said:

Thanks, thats what i was envisioning. What grit do you uae to scuff before paint? 400 seems too rough?

I didnt yet see if they cleared or if they used single stage. I was getting white from the original paint and not sure what they used at maaco. Getting rid of the hard grey line and the ivory chamonix color would go a long way to make it a 10ft car.

no more course that 600 wet to scuff before spraying base coat or clear...the scratch will show when the paint/clear cures...800 will be good but much finer and you may have adhesion problems

[solo 2]

2 hours ago, dang said:

What I do...

 

--  If you're painting over an area that already has paint and just needs touching up and blending I use 800 grit, but you're not trying to take a bunch of paint off, just make it dull.

--  Get the paint matched by either driving the car down to the shop or better yet, take a piece of metal that's the correct color and have it matched.  It won't be perfect.

--  Determine if you need base/clear or single stage.  Take a dark towel and use some polishing compound and see if any white shows up on the towel.  If yes, its single stage.  If no, it has clearcoat.

--  Have them make an aerosol can with the base/color.  If its two-stage get some Jam-it clear in an aerosol can.  They should be $20 to $25 each.

--  Make sure the sanded area is much larger than your painting area.  Allow a foot or so more than where you plan to paint.

--  Paint the base and blend, leaving enough sanded area to paint clear past the color but not all the way to the edge of the sanded area.

--  Wet sand the entire sanded area with 1500 grit.

--  Cut with cutting compound (or rubbing compound), then polishing compound.

 

For the holes you might consider using white grommets to plug them.  It won't look great but it would look better than trying to fill them and it not turning out very good because you don't have the right material.

 

This is pretty complete but I'm curious about the clear you're talking about, is it a 2 part, if not I'd stick with Spraymax. Just remember to wear a proper mask when shooting, nasty stuff. If you're in Cali I'm not sure you can buy it there.

[theNomad]

Great info all around. Lots to digest. Im blissfully and ignorantly confident that i cant mess it up much worse and just might make it better. I think ill stop in to a local shop and get their suggestions. Theyll know what they can make and what is for sale in the area.

[TobyB]

 Yeah, you were left with a dog's breakfast to start with, so it's not going to be too hard to improve on it.

 

Wet sanding typically 'softens' the paper about a grit.  So 600 wet or 1000 dry both work to create about the same

level of texture.

But I disagree a little with Esty- 2000 wet is still scuffed enough to 'key' fresh paint.  It doesn't do

anything for removing texture or shaping, but he winner of  staying 1000 wet or finer is that you

can then polish it directly, no sanding needed.  Which will preserve the 'blend line' that the rolled tape creates,

whereas sanding may make another sharp edge, as you have with the primer.

 

BTW, what you have there is called 'an incompetent %uck- up' by the real painters I know. 

You'll make it better.

 

t

 

[dang]

11 hours ago, solo 2 said:

This is pretty complete but I'm curious about the clear you're talking about, is it a 2 part, if not I'd stick with Spraymax. Just remember to wear a proper mask when shooting, nasty stuff. If you're in Cali I'm not sure you can buy it there.

 

I'm in CA and this is the stuff I use to clear jambs and small areas..