tires and wheels Wheel shake, checking hub run out

[brendang2000]

Hello all!!

 

 

Ever since I've added IE's Wilwood brake kit on the front I've had wheel shake, it's worse while hitting the brakes.  The car has 5k miles on it since restore and everything is new (which makes finding the culprit harder).  I've changed tires and made sure rims were true, so now I'm moving onto rotors and the 320 hubs.  I checked run out on the rotors and was getting a few thousands, don't remember the exact amount, and wanted to check the hubs before I had these new rotors turned.  Does anybody have the spec on 320 hub run out? I can't find much info on this subject, but I'm guessing that the .011"-.012" that I'm getting on the hub could be the cause, video attached (I hope!).  Bearings are "just loose", front suspension is tight, I think I'm checking the run out correctly.  Anything I'm missing, doing wrong?  As always, thanks!!!

IMG_1166.MOV

IMG_1166.MOV

[M3M3]

yup.  too much runout.  i had same issue with the install.  turned the rotors, it helped a little.  eventually got new rotors. fixed. 

 

 

you have checked wheel bearing play right?  it needs to be readjusted after a hundred miles or so after putting new bearings in.

Edited October 28, 2015 by mlytle

[2002]

How are the tires?

[brendang2000]

yup.  too much runout.  i had same issue with the install.  turned the rotors, it helped a little.  eventually got new rotors. fixed. 

 

you have checked wheel bearing play right?  it needs to be readjusted after a hundred miles or so after putting new bearings in.

Yea, I've checked bearings a few times as they did loosen up on me before.  It's got to be that one hub, the left has .003" run out and the left is .011", way out of spec by a NAPA video I saw after watching yours; NAPA states most OEM as .002" or less.

 

Steve, tires are new and rims were checked to be true.

 

Also, while watching that NAPA video they used hub correction plates to correct the run out.  They come in .003" & .006" thicknesses.  Never knew these things existed.  Should help for the one side but got to swap out the right one.  Thanks guys!!

[ray_]

I had new Wilwood front rotors warp almost instantly (Lee's Massive). And I was firmly in the camp believing that rotors don't warp.

 

Oddly, the replacement set was a "heavy duty" option. Gee I wonder why that was needed...

 

@#$%^&.

 

Good luck,

[TobyB]

It's your heavy duty right foot, Ray.

 

Yeah, .003" is what I've found to be the 'reasonable limit' for a non- shaky experience. 

 

An old Klick and Klack show explained it well- it's usually stresses in the metal being relieved by the

brake heat annealing the casting.  So as the rotor equalizes, it runs out of true.

 

If you have early 320 (tii size) bearings, you can run them just a bit tighter than 'not loose' and that might help-

after you get the rotors trued.  On the car, usually, works better.

 

And when that doesn't do it, new rotors.  I've replaced $60 bimbo's with $13 'ultra rotors' and fixed shakes that way.  Makes no sense, except that it works..

 

.t

[brendang2000]

Got the used OEM 320 hubs installed today.  Zero run out on one hub and at worst, .001" on the other.  Still have a bit of run out with the rotors installed, .003" and .002", but I never had them turned.  But for the important part, no more wheel shake and the steering wheel is not making my hands numb while braking:)

[M3M3]

yeah!

 

when you need new rotors, they are a common size.  8x7 bolt patern, 11.75in dia, .810in thick.

http://www.colemanracing.com/Brakes-C94.aspx

[TobyB]

Holy hell- I just re- read, and hadn't twigged that the runout was at the HUB!  That's miserable.  I'm surprised the rotor didn't catch the caliper support!

 

What was the source of the hub?

 

And:

 

a quick spin on the lathe would clean that right up.

 

t

[brendang2000]

Holy hell- I just re- read, and hadn't twigged that the runout was at the HUB!  That's miserable.  I'm surprised the rotor didn't catch the caliper support!

 

What was the source of the hub?

 

And:

 

a quick spin on the lathe would clean that right up.

 

t

By souce of the hub, do you mean where I got them?  If that's the case, they were new IE hubs.  Saddly I even had to return one prior to fitting it to the car as one of the lug stud holes must have been tapped crooked.  With all studs installed the rotor hat would not fit over the studs.  Yep yep, going to have the IE hubs turned eventually, but with the used 320 hubs working, it's a project on the back burner:)

[TobyB]

I'd give them a call- talk to Andrew.  They might be able to do something for you. That's not right. 

I used to talk to Jeremy, who would go in back, find a pair he KNEW to be good, and ship them,

usually 2 day or so.  But I hear he's left....

 

Jeff's a bit gruff for things like this. 

 

Wonder where they're getting 'em from?

 

t

[brendang2000]

I wondered where they were sourcing these myself.

 

It must have been Jeremy that helped me last time, because if I remember correctly, the new hub was shipped extra quick.

I'd contact them, but I bought this brake kit probably 2 or more years ago. You know how it goes, buy all the parts you need while restoring a car, then years later you can install them. Might just be best to have the ones I have turned, or leave them on the shelf in case the 320 ones ever go bad.

[TobyB]

They won't.  The OE 320 hubs are almost bulletproof, if you go to studs.

 

t