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Camber question (IE fixed camber plates)


jso5000

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Hello,

Yesterday I installed H&R springs and Bilstein sports on the 02. I also installed IE fixed camber plates.

When I mounted the wheel/tire I noticed alot of positive camber.

I took the car off the jack stands and still had positive camber.

I stood on the front bumper and loaded the suspension and could not change it.

Do I need to drive the car around to get the suspension to "settle" in.

Is the something that could have gone wrong that causes this?

 

I did use the technique of pushing the disconnecting the sway bar and pushing down on the control arm to do the install.

Also when viewing the strut bearing from the top it looks right - that is, it is biased towards the center of the car.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

JSO

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If you loosened and tightened the control arm, or radius arm connections, they need to be tightened with weight on the suspension, or the bushings will be stressed and potentially 'adding lift' to the equation.

(edit-assuming they are rubber)

Are you sure you have the front and rear springs in their proper positions?  

I am not sure of the effects of having them reversed, but just thought I would ask.

Edited by '76Mintgrun'02
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I did not loosen or tighten the control arm connections. Just pushed it down with my foot.

I'm damn sure I have the springs right - I'll recheck - but I checked that several times during the install.

 

Maybe rolling it or driving it.

 

Thanks

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Prior to doing anything did you have an alignment done?  What were the results (i.e. baseline)?  (Please don't get offended but....) did you put the right springs on the front and on the rear?

 

Springs do need time to settle, especially progressives so that could account for a bit of it.  I also see struts bent askew fairly often any more. 

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No offense taken. i read enough posts about putting the fronts in the rears because they are shorter. I triple checked this.

But I will check again tonight to be 110% sure. Thanks.

The strut tube seemed straight to me. The insert slid right in with no binding.

I did not have an alignment done prior to the install. However, visually the camber looked right and the car did not pull or anything.

I just expected some negative camber and I got uber positive camber.

I may take pics tonight.

JSO

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No offense taken. i read enough posts about putting the fronts in the rears because they are shorter. I triple checked this.

But I will check again tonight to be 110% sure. Thanks.

The strut tube seemed straight to me. The insert slid right in with no binding.

I did not have an alignment done prior to the install. However, visually the camber looked right and the car did not pull or anything.

I just expected some negative camber and I got uber positive camber.

I may take pics tonight.

JSO

I just had my car up in the air to replace my O2 sensor the other day and saw what you described after lowering it back down. Rolling the car back and forth a few feet allowed everything to settle in as it should be.

Brent

1974 2002 - Megasquirt and turbo

2018 BMW M2/ 2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel

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I rolled it back and forth and that seemed to help alot. I think actually driving it now will do the trick. Thanks for the advice.

FYI: My fender distances measured 24" spot on from ground to fender lip on all four corners.

After the install I am 22 1/2 in the rear (1.5" drop) and 23 in the front (1.0" drop).

I'm hopeful the fronts will come down a bit more with some driving. I also removed the spacer.

JSO

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rolled it back and forth and that seemed to help alot.

Good to hear!

 

When up in the air the tires are hanging with lots of + camber, and when put back down the outer edges touch first (still cambered out) and try to stay that way.

 

You can measure camber with a square and a ruler/digital calipers.  1 degree = .017/inch  (14" wheel = .238" = 1 degree) 

 

When adjusting toe, same thing applies.  Roll the car back and forth after adjusting and re-measure.

 

Now go drive the wheels off it! :)

Edited by xferboy
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