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Gas Tank Refurbishing


schoir

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Removed my tii gas tank today, removed the fuel sending unit and the gas suction/return unit and inspected the inside of the tank.

 

The gas tank is in very good shape and the seams are solid, but I found the beginnings of some surface rust on the bottom surface of the tank and would like to seal it.

 

Has anyone DIY'd the coating/sealing of their gas tank with good results or is this a job best left to professionals?

 

I found a kit advertised by POR-15 which claims that it as simple as pouring in an etching solution, rinsing, and then pouring in a sealer which is impervious to gasoline, etc...

 

If this can be DIY'd, I'm open to recommendations from anyone who has done it.

 

Regards, Maurice.

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I just had mine acid dipped at a local shop. Afterwards, I actually used his coating product and finished the job myself. Poured a quart of the sealer in the tank and just kept turning the tank to coat it everywhere. Covered all the holes with duct tape to coat the top and filler hole. When it was coated entirely, I poured out the remaining product so it wouldn't puddle at the lowest point and not dry completely. I waited two days before adding gasoline.

I had thought about using the POR product but my tank was quite rusty and I felt more comfortable using my local guy.

I would do it myself if I had a fairly clean tank.

post-9145-0-82462200-1383784448_thumb.jp

j9273c.jpg
'71 Agave, '71 Verona, '74 Inka, '73 Chamonix

"FAQ Member Number 60"

 

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I have used the Bill Hirsch kit with good results on other cars. I have read quite a bit about this subject online, many have had good luck with sealers, but they don't take you have a big mess and a bigger problem than you had when you started (as the sealer flakes off and blocks your gas line). An alternative is to drain the tank, fill with pea sized gravel and shake the hell out of it then shake it some more, than some more after that, until your arms feel like they are going to fall off, to knock off all the loose pieces and abrade the worst of the rust off, then clean the tank out (I rinsed with water, baffles will make getting everything out a little bit of chore, then once all out dry it out in the sun on a hot day or rig a blower (I used my shop vac in reverse) to dry it out.

Lincoln, NE

74 2002

68 Triumph TR250

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Try using the POR-15 fuel tank repair kit. It has a wash, etch and epoxy in the kit. Also make sure you prepare the outside of the tank too, so when you pour the excess POR-15 out of the tank, you can paint the outside with the excess (with a brush). Its really tough stuff.

Dont forget to use some new weatherstripping around the trunk/tank interface to keep out any un-wanted water, fumes,noise etc.
I did that 8 years ago and no fumes and no leaks. 

HTH Beaner7102 

1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"

1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, 5spd & LSD - Weber 40/40 to come) - "Bluey"

1984 - E30 318i VIN WBAAK320208722176 - stock daily driver

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After considering all of the advice and examining the current state of my 42 year old fuel tank, I've decided to go with a hybrid approach:

 

Using the POR-15 Metal Prep (now called "Prep & Ready) etching solution, then rinsing with water, following that up with a quart or two of acetone or lacquer thinner to help everything dry, blow air drying, and, finally, applying the Red Kote.

 

Since my tank is not badly rusted, I will probably put this off until the spring.

 

Here are a couple of photos of the inside of the tank:

 

post-45192-0-05063700-1383972942_thumb.j

 

 

post-45192-0-74474800-1383972982_thumb.j

 

I have already put a few coats of POR-15 gloss black on the outside surfaces of the tank:

 

 

post-45192-0-45838000-1383973099_thumb.j

 

One more question for Mike:  How many quarts of the Red Kote did you need to coat your tank?

 

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by schoir
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Maurice,

One quart will cover with some left. After about 30 minutes of rotating the tank very slowly, just pour out the remaining fluid through the fill tube to prevent puddling in the lowest point.

Also, careful with the acetone and blow dryer. I'd let it air dry quite a while to allow for evaporation of the flammable acetone.

j9273c.jpg
'71 Agave, '71 Verona, '74 Inka, '73 Chamonix

"FAQ Member Number 60"

 

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I used the POR-15 kit. 

 

Besides it being a bit of a workout on your back muscles; constantly turning, rolling and flipping the tank with metal-ready and with the paint itself, i found it well worth the trouble. Looks lovely inside now and should last another 50 years or so!

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