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Is It Hot In Here Or Just My Car?


jgerock

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Finally got around to bleeding my brakes after rebuilding the front calipers.  Boy, was it hot in the garage this afternoon!

 

With the front end up on jack stands, I unlocked the steering column and used my BavAuto pressure bleeder on the front calipers, then raised the the rear of the car and bled the rear cylinders and finally the clutch system.

 

While under the car, I was checking the guibo mounting hardware and decided to try to shake the exhaust by grabbing the downpipe.  GEEZ - why is it so hot?   I had not run the car for the last 2 weeks.  The center resonator was not hot.  WTH...

 

D'oh.... I turned the key too far unlocking the steering column and my AFR gauge turned on and heated up the 02 sensor.  It was on for about 20 minutes while I was bleeding the system.

 

IMG_0983_zpsb5ad0588.jpg

 

 

Learn from my mistakes!

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I would chalk that up to live and learn. When working on my TR6 one time, I left the key in the on position by mistake. After about 30 minutes I looked and saw that oil was bubbling up out the top of the coil. The points must have been closed completing the circuit through the coil.

 

BTW, when bleeding brakes, I always start with the wheel furthest away from the MC. 

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BTW, when bleeding brakes, I always start with the wheel furthest away from the MC. 

nice habit for remembering which wheel you have done, but adds no value to the bleeding process.  it makes no difference which one you do first, they all have their own line from the master.   the rears have one line, but the brake line distance to right and left rear is exactly the same because the line splits in the center of the car.

 

nothing wrong with doing the "furthest away first", but it has no effect on the process.

 

so jim...do the brakes work ok now?  did you check your front wheel bearing play while you had the car up?  i always do that after a track day.

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Have to re-bleed the fronts.  Took it out in the neighborhood and have a mushy pedal.  Will check wheel bearings at that time.  Had to get more fluid before tackling the entire system.

 

@peterschop:  I too usually start with RR wheel when doing brakes, but my system was only open at the front during the caliper switch out.  Main reason for bleeding rears (and clutch) was to switch from low temp. fluid to HT ATE Blue.

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olympic auto parts on eisenhower carries ATE blue.  you can also use ATE type 200.  same stuff without the blue dye.

 

I switch back and forth between the two with every fluid change.  Color change helps me know I have new fluid all the way to where I want it.

 

Jim - did you do the bleed sequence correctly?  Inner, Outer, Upper?

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I switch back and forth between the two with every fluid change.  Color change helps me know I have new fluid all the way to where I want it.

 

Jim - did you do the bleed sequence correctly?  Inner, Outer, Upper?

 

I do it per the Blue book instructions:  Upper, inner, outer.  Took the car out for a drive yesterday after the 2nd round of bleeding.  Better, but needs a higher pedal. Air must still be trapped inside the piston cavity per Marshall's advice.

 

Sourced extra ATE fluid from BavAuto last week.

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Jim,

 

Don't forget the bleeder nipple on the back side of the front calipers!  Ask me how I know?  Mushy pedal until I remembered to bleed all three! :-)

 

FWIW, I start with the right rear, then left rear, right front, then left front (and clutch slave last).

 

John

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Jim,

 

Don't forget the bleeder nipple on the back side of the front calipers!  Ask me how I know?  Mushy pedal until I remembered to bleed all three! :-)

 

FWIW, I start with the right rear, then left rear, right front, then left front (and clutch slave last).

 

John

Yep!   "Upper, inner, outer".

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