tires and wheels 4 lug to 5 lug conversion?

[kimerpof]

Im looking to get new wheels and finding 4 lug wheels that i like is difficult so i just wanted to get the 5 lug i prefer! Has anyone done this?

[BBL70]

was thinking in doing but change my mind, I don't think it will be safe, some web you can go .....

http://www.shop.adapterkings.com/product.sc?productId=11

http://adaptitusa.com/4-lugto5lugadapters.aspx

http://www.motorcitybolton.com/wheel-adapters-wheel-spacers/4-lug-wheel-adapters-wheel-spacers.html?gclid=CIaK5Zvc_rICFeV7Qgod8kkAuA

[tinkwithanr]

Interesting topic to bring up again. I will be doing the conversion on my project car, and have seen a couple of options as to how to get there.

The adapters in the links above would be the easiest option. That being said it's not really the best way to do it. Due to the thickness of the adapter your offset would need to be fairly high. Likewise, while I'm sure they are designed to be plenty safe, it just adds that many more parts to fail.

The way I'm planning to do it uses all stock BMW parts. For the front suspension, I'm using Tii Struts with e12 (5-lug) front hubs. I don't have the part number in front of me, but they share the same bearing sizes. For the rear, I already transplanted an e30 subframe into my '02, so I can use the standard Z3 swap parts (more info on that can be found here: http://extradrei.com/5lug.html).

[TobyB]

It'd also be possible to redrill the rear hubs.

You'd probably get to weld up one hole,

and then always have to drill the drums, but it'd

be cheap.

Of course, given the plethora of 4x100 wheels, the

only REAL reason would be because you wanted to...

t

[tinkwithanr]

Of course, given the plethora of 4x100 wheels, the

only REAL reason would be because you wanted to...

For about 90% of situations I completely agree. However, there are rare times that it might actually make sense to go with a 5 lug setup.

In most situations, due to the might demand for 'classic' wheels in the 4x100 bolt pattern, similar wheels will pull a much higher price tag than their 5x120 counterparts. I got a set of 5x120 for less than half of $2k (or more) that the same wheel in 4x100 normally bring.

Then for my front struts I'm going to be able to use e12 struts, which give me vented front brakes as well as a strut tube that accepts standard Koni race inserts, all for less that $200. Compare that to Tii struts that keep going up in price and it was worth it to me. Granted it will take some machining work, so it isn't exactly plug and play. But for those with the ability you could end up with better equipment for less cost in the end.

Of course, in the end it's really just 'to each his own'. I must admit I have a soft spot for this kinda stuff...

[TobyB]

Yup, sometimes

'because it makes me happy'

is the best reason there is!

t

[FB73tii]

Then for my front struts I'm going to be able to use e12 struts, which give me vented front brakes as well as a strut tube that accepts standard Koni race inserts

Granted it will take some machining work, so it isn't exactly plug and play.

I am looking at building shortened struts with tii spindles and large diameter tubes to accept the Konis. What do you need to do to use the E12 struts? I checked part numbers and it looks like the E12 pitman arms (32211108267 & 32211108268) are different than the 2002tii pitman arms (32212624162 & 32212624163) and the safety wire hex bolt is M10 on the E12 while M8 on the tii. Which pitman arms will you use, and what machining is required? Would a custom roll center spacer help adapt the tii pitman arms to the E12 strut?

Thanks, Fred '74tii & '69GT3

[tinkwithanr]

I'm using the E12 spindles and hubs with a roll center spacer that will accept the '02 steering arm, as well as add some extra negative camber. I'm also going to try and incorporate an adjustment mechanism that will let me use standard KONI double adjustable race inserts (the compression adjustment is done from the bottom of the insert, and so the standard stock assembly makes getting to it impossible).

Originally I was planning to use the Tii spindles with the e12 hubs. This would let you use the standard steering arm without adapting, but you still have the skinny strut tube. The bigger issue is what to do for brakes. The standard go to on tii struts would be the e12 calipers and the '77 vented disc, but unless you want to keep machining the proper bolt pattern into them each time you do a brake job it's not a good solution. The next option that makes sense would be to use the vented rotors from the e12 that come with the calipers. However, the 5-lug vented rotors have a diameter of 280mm vs the e21 vented rotors (255mm). This means that using the e12 rotor on the tii spindle would interfere with the e12 caliper.

So by using the complete e12 strut/hub/caliper/rotor assembly you get upgraded brakes and the larger tii bearings at a much lower cost. I was able to find the entire assembly, including cross drilled rotors, for under $200. Compare that to the cost of tii components ($400 for strut tubes, $100 for early e21 hubs, $150+ for e12 brake parts and your still stuck with small diameter inserts) and this starts to make some sense.

[HRDCRE74]

I have made rear hubs to make them the bolt on and no subframe mods required. Email for more details.

Doing the touring 5 lug project blog. I'm using tii rear hubs. Machining them down and have outter machined with the 5x120 pattern. OEM centers pressed and welding in to New piece. Have photos of the process. Been on my tii now for 4 months. Test fitted and planning on doo.g rear disc conversion. I can email more info and images.

Dracoruno@ gmail.com

Thanks,

Le

[FB73tii]

Sounds like the way to go for the front 5-lug conversion--very cool. So rather than a shock adjustment access port in the roll spacer (spacer would have to be pretty thick) you are fabricating an adjustment mechanism? Worm gear set-up perhaps? Will be interested to see how this turns out.

--Fred

[tinkwithanr]

Nothing quite that complex. Well see how it looks once my struts come in, but I'm planning on just having a rotating knob permanently inserted into the bottom of the strut that is accessed through a recess in the spacer. Shouldn't have to be any thicker than a normal one, just have to make it out of the right material (2024 aluminum should do the trick).