Paint?

[beelm]

Just trying to gain some knowledge on paint. If I'm not doing show car/concours and am looking to have the car finish similar to what it was in 1972, is a single stage paint going to do that?

[esty]

If I'm not doing show car/concours and am looking to have the car finish similar to what it was in 1972, is a single stage paint going to do that?

yep...providing the painter knows what to do

[fourtii]

Log in, then email me off my tab and I can help you find a shop capable of what you're looking for locally.

[TobyB]

Ah, yeah, but 2 stage has a better chance of surviving the sun in NM for

longer than the 3 years the stock paint did...

it's hardly any more expense. really. I held off for years. I was a dope.

t

[beelm]

Hey thanks for the advice, I will follow up. Strange thing is I was getting a quote of 50% less for the single stage vs multi coat/cear coat. When I look up the material cost estimates, maybe $500 difference, must be a lot of extra labor.

[TobyB]

That's odd, indeed- my experience has been that the material cost is negligable,

and the only added time is for changing guns and cleaning two, instead

of just one.

4 coats of single really do equal 2 of base and 2 of clear.

In fact, the base/clear system uses, if anything, a bit LESS material,

and each stage is the same cost or cheaper.

On top of that, everyone who paints cars is familiar with it, whereas

single stage is a bit 'old fashioned' and not all painters are as comfortable with

it.

But that's just my experience.

The real advantage of it is that you can get nice, even color coverage

and then the clear provides better UV protection and hardness.

And I have found it applies better, so the 'as shot' finish looks better.

Like I said, I shot single for years, and the first time I put clear down,

it was a true Homer Simpson moment- it was easier AND looked better.

And every car I've done in single is now oxidized...

t

[beelm]

That's odd, indeed- my experience has been that the material cost is negligable,

and the only added time is for changing guns and cleaning two, instead

of just one.

4 coats of single really do equal 2 of base and 2 of clear.

In fact, the base/clear system uses, if anything, a bit LESS material,

and each stage is the same cost or cheaper.

On top of that, everyone who paints cars is familiar with it, whereas

single stage is a bit 'old fashioned' and not all painters are as comfortable with

it.

But that's just my experience.

The real advantage of it is that you can get nice, even color coverage

and then the clear provides better UV protection and hardness.

And I have found it applies better, so the 'as shot' finish looks better.

Like I said, I shot single for years, and the first time I put clear down,

it was a true Homer Simpson moment- it was easier AND looked better.

And every car I've done in single is now oxidized...

t

[dpecsok]

As was mentioned by others, yes your car was originally a single stage paint. However, using a basecoat/clear coat is they way to go.

With the uv protectorants built into a single stage paint system, the paint will start to degrade much sooner.

[beelm]

Thanks for all the information and advice! I am not sure what to make of the quote I had, difference in price between single & clear coat, except that you are all giving me more information and questions to ask the paint shop. I'll keep digging! The UV sounds like a definite plus given the intense sun we have here. The materials used in the clear coat vs base doesn't seem to explain the price difference....hmmmmm. Becky

[esty]

there are still an awful lot of good looking cars around wearing their original single stage paint...regardless of type of paint the key to longevity is maintenance

[beelm]

Good point on the number of good cars out there with original. My car's original 40 year paint is still in very good shape... exception is one edge of the hood where the prior owner had a fender bender and the paint was oversprayed (probably in 1976) and has flaked off. And then the rocker panels, sigh, and a rear driver side rocker/rim. Otherwise I might be tempted to keep the original, still shines, in my younger days I would always hand wax. Been in a garage and/or covered up.

[SRC60]

I've sprayed both. I think it depends a lot on your color. Metallics, especially light colors, I would definitely go base/clear. Solid colors, I would probably go single stage. As far as I know, BMW still uses single stage for their non-metallic colors. I have a red 2002 Toyota work truck which is outside all the time and completely neglected as far as paint goes and it still looks fine - no oxidation or discoloration at all. Your car looks to be white and if you keep it that color and use quality paint, I think single stage will be fine. Plus, its easier to do touch ups later.

Just my $.02, Steve

[TobyB]

PPG Concept single, their 'top of the line' in 1995, lasts maybe 3-4 years

outside here, then starts to oxidize.

I have 4 cars painted in it to prove this.

When I repaired the daily driver, I shot their clear (2000?) over the repair.

As an experiment.

10+ years ago.

That end hasn't oxidized.

I'd be kinda surprised if BMW's solids aren't cleared- I'll scuff the 318 when

I have a second and see what comes off!

t

[wegweiser]

Hey thanks for the advice, I will follow up. Strange thing is I was getting a quote of 50% less for the single stage vs multi coat/cear coat. When I look up the material cost estimates, maybe $500 difference, must be a lot of extra labor.

We do a complete hand wet sanding of the entire car before any clear is applied. That's time consuming as you can imagine. Also - from my understanding, you can sand out any dust particles from pigmented paints before the clear is applied....but the clear has to be perfect over it.

I'm not a painter myself....but I watch co-workers turn out some pretty impressive work from our paint booth....and I have spent many MANY hours sanding as part of the prep.

[beelm]

Hey thanks for all the information. Talked to someone else today, estimate of $5500 for clear coat paint and soda blast, probably another $2000-3000 for the body work. The estimate of paint sounded pretty firm, body work depending on what else is found when the car is down to metal.