Need help with Heater Box Removal

[Gurmail]

Let me start by saying that it was only going to be heater control valve removal, which turned out to a little more difficult due to its age. Since the interior of the car had already been stripped, I thought it a good idea to get to the valve by removing the heater box, and allowing me to do a complete refurbishment. Read up on the comprehensive archive article, and proceeded to remove the glove box and the aluminum lever covers to expose the mounting screws. However, the screws are not exposed. Picture attached below.

The screws are too far of either side of the dash. Then, I thought I've no choice but to remove the lower portion of the 3-piece dash. Removed all 9 of the obvious screws, but the dash would not barge.

Am I missing any other screw or could the dash be glued to the frame in addition to the screws? It there another way to remove the controls besides removing the lower dash? Please help.

Thanks,

Gurmail

[TobyB]

Oh. The FAQ has an error.

You have an early dash.

Pre Modell 71.

Those don't unscrew. You either unhook the cables from them from behind,

or pull the dash to get at the screws.

There's a reason I haven't pulled mine.... and that's iT!!!

solly,

t

[adamgraves]

i need to pull my heater out to fix what sounds like a screaming fan. got to be something worn or loose and fixable. so to get the heating unit out do i have to yank the whole dash?? again im a newby at 02's.

[pkbinplano]

dont those covers just pop off and the screws that secure the slider controls just behind them ?

[Scott Sislane]

i need to pull my heater out to fix what sounds like a screaming fan. got to be something worn or loose and fixable. so to get the heating unit out do i have to yank the whole dash?? again im a newby at 02's.

no you don't, for '76, basically, from memory:

Run the car & make sure your heater valve is close (on cold) reducing amoutn of fluid in hoses and heater core.

Remove your ctr console

your lever control plates pop off, then control plates unscrew. (small screw on either side, on face)

remove the plastic hoses and wires

two bolts - 1 on either side of the box holds the box up to the firewall.

Disconnect inlet/exit hoses on either side of the fan motor (engine bay area)

Unscrewing the two nuts will allow the box to drop down.

box removed

box

I think there's an faq on doing this.

Crack box open (drill rivets out that keep the two pieces togther) and replace motor. (this is the time consumign part)

This is for the later years, earleir years are a little diff.

[Mike Self]

only three levers, the control panels/levers are hell to remove...there are itty bitty nuts and studs on the back side--and the studs have been clipped short, thus buggering up the threads.

If you're gonna pull the heater with this setup, it's easier to disconnect the cables at the control lever end--and even that requires some contortions under the dash to see/reach them.

Before you pull the whole heater assy, try lubricating the heater blower armature bushings with it still in the car. The rear (commutator end) is easy to reach--just pop the plastic cap off the end of the motor. The front one is more difficult, but a spray oil can with a wand (like a WD 40 can, but use "real" oil) can be carefully worked around the armature. I was able to shut my 69's fan up in this manner, and it worked for many years afterwards before I finally had to pull the heater for a general refurbishment.

cheers

mike

[Gurmail]

Thanks for all the responses, but I think some of us have gone off on a tangent. I think Solly and Mike understand the situation.

I'm going to have to figure this one out for myself. I'll look into Mike's suggestion to disconnect the cables at the level/control ends. It looks to be the best bet.

Thank guys,

Gurmail

1968 1600

[adamgraves]

great advise. FYI my screws behind the lever face plates were almost totally covered in dash rubber. Bugger to get the out and in but all rebuilt and clean now. thanks faq.