Weber carb ID?

[MarkS]

Just need to figure out which model carb this is so I can get a rebuild kit. Numbers are a little tough to make out. Anyone?

[72Golf]

38DGAS

[MarkS]

Cool, thanks. That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure.

Car runs like crap. Have to feather the throttle while it warms up for 3-5 minutes. Then seems to run ok but stumbles a bit under 1k and over 5k. Will give it a good cleaning then try & rebuild it.

Found a few threads on 32/36 vs 38. They seem to indicate the 38 will give you more power/performance but can be harder to tune than the 32/36. Would gladly sacrifice a little power for reliability. Any thoughts?

Again, I've had this car for 2 weeks and am still getting to know it.

[Napes]

Might want to check these links:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,755529/t,345719/

and,

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm

Bob Napier

[c.d.iesel]

...... "Found a few threads on 32/36 vs 38.

They seem to indicate the 38 will

give you more power/performance

but can be harder to tune than

the 32/36.

Would gladly sacrifice a little power for reliability

Any thoughts? "

yes - put that 38 lump on the shelf and put a new 32/36 on.

do you want to drive your car?

or work on a lousy running, no time,

too tired, don't know how, can someone come to my

house for Beers and fix my 38 for months and months and......

your present lousy running can also be due to low compression,

vacuum leaks, lousy ignition, poorly adjusted valves......... ?

A COMPRESSION TEST IS No. 1 on your to-do-list .

[Mike Self]

It shows an uncovered vacuum port at the carb's base. If you're not using it for the carb vacuum advance or something else, it should be tightly plugged. Otherwise you'll have a massive imbalance between fuel and un-metered air.

Your poor running when cold is either a badly or non-performing choke (yours is water-activated) and/or the fast idle linkage is not working/missing/disconnected. That's a link between the choke mechanism and the throttle linkage that boosts the idle speed when the choke is on. Your choke problems may be a matter of adjustment, cleaning or no longer functioning.

Being the thrifty type, I'd try dismantling and thoroughly cleaning your carb, reassembling with new gaskets and possibly a new needle valve, adjusting the choke properly and see how it works. If all is well, you've saved +/- $200 for a new carb; if not, you're only out the cost of the kit (or make your own gaskets and buy just a needle valve.)

mike

PS--check archives for directions on setting the float level--a critical thing on a Weber carb.

[MarkS]

Good stuff, thanks guys. Will update once I have this figured out. Thanks again.