Retractable seat belt install

[nbcbird]

For those of you who are considering Al “bluedevils” retractable seat belt conversion for the early 2002s (using the cumbersome wire hoop over the emergency brake), I used a fairly easy installation method without welding (see attached photos). I always thought the retractable unit had to be mounted on the ”B” pillar until I saw an installation from Rob Torres with the retractor unit mounted to the floor pan.

My method simply uses a 7/16” mounting hole in the lower vertical sill and a larger 1” hole in the upper sill. These holes were located vertically below the existing mounting hole under the rear window. The larger hole is an access for securing a nut/lock washer. I will eventually cover up this hole with a plastic cap as well as coat the area with some epoxy primer. The retractor has a small tab on the back which inserts into the small hole in the center and keeps the unit from rotating. I used many of the original Klippan mounting bolts/hardware—with some minor adjustments in hole size or bolt length. The original Klippan bolts are surprisingly 7/16”x20 pitch (NOT 12mmx1.25 as I originally thought). I am comfortable with this bolt-in method since the stress on the mount is in a shear rather than tension mode.

For the front cable buckle assembly, I used the original bolt, but shortened it and cut the shoulder down to the thickness of the mounting plate. The mounting plate hole was enlarged so it rotates on the bolt shoulder and allows the cable to move after it is secured.

Many thanx to bluedevils for his help with this project.

[jgerry2002]

With the door panel in place, where does the back part of that seatbelt go? out in front of it?

[bluedevils]

Nicely done Jim, many thanks for the pictures, very helpful. Seat belt goes in front of the the rear quarter trim panel. Many cars have the threaded holes over the ash tray, so if you can punch a small hole on the quarter panel, this types of belts can also be installed on a later model (72>) cars for a cleaner look.

[ifayeoh]

GREAT IDEA!!!! sure wish i would have thought of that yesterday!!!.....i ended up having to weld, arrrggghh.

[bluedevils]

Me too, I wouldn't have to send the welding brackets to you fellows...

[Guest Anonymous]

I had Al make me a set of Kipplans a few months back as I was no excited about welding in my brand new interior (or pulling it all out to install belts) Once I get some excess funds I plan on going this route. This should be made into a faq so that others with early cars can find it later! Thanks for the great idea.

[bluedevils]

I had Al make me a set of Kipplans a few months back as I was no excited about welding in my brand new interior (or pulling it all out to install belts) Once I get some excess funds I plan on going this route. This should be made into a faq so that others with early cars can find it later! Thanks for the great idea.

I second that, admin can you add this to construction zone? Let' call it Peacock

method (Jim Peacock) for seat belts.

[BaltoTim]

I went the welding route a few weeks ago--I have a buddy who is a welding wiz, and access to all the equipment. I have some pics I can upload if anyone is interested. Although I doubt it--this method looks much cleaner and more straightforward.

[BaltoTim]

I have one thing to add to this:

Make sure when you are positioning the retractor that the top of the dust cover--the slot where the belt comes out--is about a quarter inch or so below the plane of the front rail that supports the bench seat. Without some clearance, the belt will bind along the side of the seat.

[bluedevils]

I have posted Jim peacock's instructions at FAQ construction zone titled *installing inertia belts to early cars (<71)*. And yes, some clearance is needed, depending on the type of the retractor's plastic webbing guide.

[bluedevils]

I went the welding route a few weeks ago--I have a buddy who is a welding wiz, and access to all the equipment. I have some pics I can upload if anyone is interested. Although I doubt it--this method looks much cleaner and more straightforward.

.

Please post your pictures. Some fellows might prefer welding. You can add to my post at the construction zone as an alternative method to no-welding approach. It is good to have alternatives.

[jdt10768]

ncbird: Can you post a wider angle pic of the holes drilled and exact sizes of the holes? Thanks very much

[nbcbird]

Here is a wider shot of the install--all the hole sizes are listed in the original post. The vertical section at the right side of the photo is the B pillar. The mounting hole (7/16" at the bottom) is dependent on what size bolt the retractable unit uses. This hole is in the vertical section. The upper access hole (1" diameter in the sill section that is almost horizontal) is sized to accommodate the securing nut and your finger. It doesn't need to be exactly an inch--I used a step drill which helped me gauge what the final hole size would be (and made the drilling much easier). There are plastic caps for sealing holes in electrical boxes that work great for covering the big hole.

My sill cavity is filled with expandable polyurethane foam (which you can see in large hole). I am not worried about moisture retention since the foam fills the entire cavity and sticks to the inner metal surfaces like paint. I chipped a small channel between the upper access hole and the lower mounting hole and the nut practically fell onto the mounting bolt (without a chance of losing it). You could probably stuff a rag into the cavity for the same function. Good luck everyone.

[jdt10768]

this is very helpful! Thanks.

[bluedevils]

Jim, thx for the detailed picture. As for the foam, is this a special foam or same product sold at home depot or lowes for filling cracks, expending foam. TIA.