engine and drivetrain Oil Pan Gasket Question

[pilotnbr1]

I have a an oil pan gasket leak/seep.. I am considering that as my next little project. After some faq searching it is obvious that the engine must be lifted a couple inches to change the gasket.

My question- Has anyone attempted/or is it possible to change the gasket with out lifting the engine and putting 2 strategic cuts in the gasket? With the gasket cut is it possible to wiggle it in and then forma-gasket at the cuts?

I have an e46 which I have heard this technique will work... I realize this is a half-ass repair and I will most likely bite the bullet and do it the right way. Just curious if this is even an option.

Luke

[SteveK535]

Short answer is you can't do it. Engine has to come up for the pan to clear the oil pump. Cutting the gasket and fitting in pieces doesn't sound too feasible to me, sound to me like you may have more leaks than when you started doing it that way.

[pilotnbr1]

The people who do this on the e46 forums don't remove the pan.. Just create enough gap to remove the old gasket and put the new "cut" gasket in. I am with you though on the possibility of new leaks- but some of them swear that they get a good lasting seal.

Luke

[c.d.iesel]

TWO NO 's from Connecticut

" My question- Has anyone attempted/or is

it possible to change the gasket with out l

ifting the engine and putting 2 strategic

cuts in the gasket? With the gasket cut

is it possible to wiggle it in and then

forma-gasket at the cuts? "

you'd make it worse. Forget the thought.

better to add oil and keep cardboard underneath

than to botch up the current gasket

you only need a small floor jack and piece of 2x4 placed under the transmission for lifting - How do you change tires now ?

Cut the tires and drive foward to remove the rubber???

[pilotnbr1]

So CD you don't support the engine from the top after the lift? Sounds much easier if you can just lift from the bottom and brace the engine with some wood blocks.

Yeah this whole cutting the gasket thing only crosses my mind as a quick fix to get you to a time and place where a proper repair can be made. If it is even possible....

[nbristow01]

I replaced my oil pan gasket. Was not that bad of a task. I lifted the motor as high as I could(took distributor cap off). Used several long extensions with a swivel end at the socket. Pulled oil pan, cleaned both surfaces. I used yamabond for sealant. Put yamabond on pan sealing lip, I zip tied the gasket to the pan at several spots(be sure to have the head of the ziptie on the underside of the oil pan lip)I put yamabond on the engine oil pan surface area, slid new pan in and gentle snugged a few bolts, then clipped the zip ties and slowly pulled each one out and put a bolt in its place. Then added the rest of the bolts and snugged down. Whole job took about 2 hours

[SteveK535]

Thing is there are a few leaps of faith you would be resolved to making if you do this. Like CD said, at least with your current leak you can manage it as it is a known. After you are done doing it with this method, you will have a new "known" condition which could include: insufficiently cleaned off old gasket (mine was a pain in the arse with full access), pieces of gasket falling into the pan with no way of getting it out, which can't be good. Unknown damage to the new gasket assuming you can get each of the "one million" bolts back in the pan. THe best case its you are successful, the worst case is it leaks a lot worse and you have all sorts of debris in the sump. I wouldn't do it. Like CD said, if you have a free weekend it can be done right, or managed the way it is for a while. By the way, I did mine similar to the way Bill Williams or Jgerock (forget which one) did it. There are really good pictures posted of that, if you search the forum. 4*4 across the strut towers, jack up engine, chain up the motor using the lifting lugs and then go for it! Good luck!

[c.d.iesel]

yea - what SteveK535 just said,

PLUS have two new rubber motor mounts to

install before you drop the motor back down.

Bet your single trans mount is toast also - your car

will smile if you replace all three now - Dirt Cheep.

Dig It!

[jgerock]

BTDT. Not as easy as it sounds. Use a thick paper gasket instead of the cork one. Cork will most likely compress, causing leaks, making you do it all over again.

The oil pump pickup had to be removed in order to get the pan back in. I removed it after this picture was taken. The transmission mount nut was also removed and I used a floor jack to lift up on the trans for more clearance. I couldn't lift any higher since the alternator (even loosened) hit the battery tray (tii guys suffer more on stuff like this).

I too used small zip ties like Nick did. Another neat trick from another FAQ'r is to use sewing thread (or dental floss!) to keep the gasket in place.

[SteveK535]

Jgerock - Well I just looked up BTDT and learned something new. M2 (me too). Your photos and advice were great when I did mine. With regards to the cork verses paper, I used cork, but torqued much much less than the recommended value. No leaks thus far, although its only been a few months. I absolutely agree with you if you use the recommended torque though. I actually happened to have had two gaskets. First one I torqued to spec and it squeezed the living sh*t out of it. Redid it to less torque (mechanics feel) and its fine. Looks like you used a 2*4, did it flex much? I went with a 4*4 and not at all.

[jgerock]

That is an odd sized 4x4 I got from work. It was used on a shipping pallet. Very dense wood. It didn't flex at all. The engine sat in that position for several months while I replaced the rod bearings, piston rings and head gasket.

I wouldn't do this again... pull the engine next time.