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SteveK535

Solex
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  1. Steve:  I just started to redo my brake hard lines. Do you have any tips? Did you use 3/16 cunifer when you did yours? Do you still have your BMW?  Thanks.  

     

    jim

  2. I don't think you will hear a bad review on Redline products.
  3. I think I'm heading for a new booster too. Difficulty rating on a scale from 1-10? Looks simple, but have heard it's a nightmare. Mostly asking for time estimate, but there is a part of me that needs to prepare my motivational capacity as well.
  4. I had the same problem, if I recall correctly I tried penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer on a wooden dowel. That didn't work within my hammering "comfort zone". I think I finally got it out by heating the cast aluminum housing with a torch and supplemented that with the hammer wood dowel tapping. You don't want to hit it too hard because the casting could break.
  5. Congrats! BTW, If you feel its sorted out enough to go to BAV Auto Show and Shine this weekend....its a great time.
  6. I used to have a 72 Bavaria and the SeniorSix group was the only resource I got involved in. At the time they didn't have a forum, looks like they still don't, but they did have an emailing circuit that, at the time, worked if you wanted info, but got annoying if you didn't want every single email. They are a good bunch of folks, at least they were in 2004, lots of good knowledge and the emails were a split between technical and the love of beer and pork. The site does appear to be falling out of currency, too bad.
  7. Just this past Labor Day weekend, I was at 02fest at LRP and happened to get into a couple of discussions on 3rd Brake Lights, one discussion was with Scott. I was interested in the thought, but not necessarily in doing it to my car. As luck would have it, the ride home was in biblical rain and traffic. I could tell the cars, trucks and semis behind me could not see my penlight sized roundie brake lights, either at all or not until it was almost too late when we were moving at 30-40 mph due to the dreery daylight and road spray. I lost count of how many times I braced myself for impact. Luckily that didn't occur. When I got home I chatted with Scott some more about what he had done and had photgraphed on this post, so off to eBay i went and got me one too for $15. I purchased white LED strips that have two sided tape and applied them to the lamp reflector. A little different from Scott, I used the base as well because I found that I could easy attach it to the package shelf cover with pan head bolts and a fabricated attachement plate made out of an old metal light switch cover. This way the entire assembly could be slid out with the package shelf liner if need be. The end result is a great safety addition to the car and it looks like its always been there. Very unobtrusive and in todays world, does not stand out as "not supposed to be there". Thanks to Scott for the idea and now I'm cruising a bit more safely.
  8. You didn't ask this but this link might be helpful if you want to make adapters to put your seating in. I did this last year and it worked great. You can custom fit a wide variety of seats in this way and not affect the original perches with the exception of potentially drilling another hole (s). This way the original seats can go right back in if you decide later. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/126337-wheels-tires-seats-and-cocomats/?hl=honda+prelude Good luck.
  9. I guess that's both good and bad news, hopefully you'll have some great progress today. Told Michael I would be passing by again on Thursday if you guys are interested in those 4 rubber covered steel things that spin round and round.
  10. David, just so you know, the tool I dropped off with Michael is a double flare tool set not bubble flare. I didn't know you were looking for bubble flare tools, sorry.
  11. Please drive that 02 there! I love that look, something about an 02 with patina that I can't resist. Sticky pedal be damned!
  12. David welcome!!! Nor'East 02ers could always use new members. You missed our fun drive in June in CT, but there will be more. Tom - order is in for mid 70s, wispy clouds, 15 mph winds from the west. Anything I missed? (Man I just figured out I havent posted in a long time - just happened to see this post - my nose was itching.)
  13. I'm giving you what I thinks is a final update. Scott Sislane was nice enough to supply me with a 32/36 DGAV water choked Weber and an 002 mechanical dizzy, to trouble shoot further. I'm not going to review all the previous attempts on this because if you've followed this post, you already know, if not, read it cause you'll learn all the things I did unsuccessfully. Essentially, I had previously worked on both my original 32/36 and ignition components along the way, but not replaced them (I rebuilt my 32/36 with mechanical choke and switched from Pertronix to points in my dizzy). Scott convinced me that as a winter weekend project I should try replacing both and see what happens, can't hurt. So easier said that done I went for the carb first. Converting from a mechanical choke 32/36 to a water choke 32/36 is not hard but it does take quite a bit of patience as you have to adjust not only fuel mixture and idle but also initial choke setting and choke plate tension. I learned that they all play into the equation simultaneously so there is essentially infinite adjustment potential if you are not paying attention tot he feedback you get. To get it right you have to adjust the carburetor both hot and cold so there is some iterating involved waiting for the engine to cool down. If you have time, its all good stuff and rewarding as well. If you don't have the time, it's a pain in the ass. Turns out, after the install, the problem still existed with my random stumble, but I was happy with the new carb so I left it on. One last thing I did though convinced me I was onto something finally. I was adjusting idle on the carb while I was fine tuning it and noticed the idle was unsteady. I thought maybe I had a vacuum leak so checked the line again and it was fine. So I pulled it off and the freaking idle immediately stabilized. I left the hose off and took it out for a run and it only stumbled three times or so verses what it used to do (dozens) over about the same distance/time. So now I'm starting to think the vacuum diaphragm was bad causing random advance/retard while cruising. With the line off, the linkage is still free to move a bit, so that may explain the much less frequent but still present, occurrence. I then went to replace the dizzy. The 002 body Scott sent me didn't have any of the guts in it and my 008 Pertronix does not fit in it, so I bought a cheap set of points and a condenser, thinking I would put a Pertronix in it if the new dizzy solved the problem. Well I think it did. I have driven it on the highway for about 50 miles with no stumble whatsoever. I replaced the points with a new Pertronix and I have a stable idle and robust cruising. Think I got it this time! Thanks for reading, and thanks for the advice guys!
  14. I'm giving you what I thinks is a final update. Scott Sislane was nice enough to supply me with a 32/36 DGAV water choked Weber and an 002 mechanical dizzy, to trouble shoot further. I'm not going to review all the previous attempts on this because if you've followed this post, you already know, if not, read it cause you'll learn all the things I did unsuccessfully. Essentially, I had previously worked on both my original 32/36 and ignition components along the way, but not replaced them (I rebuilt my 32/36 with mechanical choke and switched from Pertronix to points in my dizzy). Scott convinced me that as a winter weekend project I should try replacing both and see what happens, can't hurt. So easier said that done I went for the carb first. Converting from a mechanical choke 32/36 to a water choke 32/36 is not hard but it does take quite a bit of patience as you have to adjust not only fuel mixture and idle but also initial choke setting and choke plate tension. I learned that they all play into the equation simultaneously so there is essentially infinite adjustment potential if you are not paying attention tot he feedback you get. To get it right you have to adjust the carburetor both hot and cold so there is some iterating involved waiting for the engine to cool down. If you have time, its all good stuff and rewarding as well. If you don't have the time, it's a pain in the ass. Turns out, after the install, the problem still existed with my random stumble, but I was happy with the new carb so I left it on. One last thing I did though convinced me I was onto something finally. I was adjusting idle on the carb while I was fine tuning it and noticed the idle was unsteady. I thought maybe I had a vacuum leak so checked the line again and it was fine. So I pulled it off and the freaking idle immediately stabilized. I left the hose off and took it out for a run and it only stumbled three times or so verses what it used to do (dozens) over about the same distance/time. So now I'm starting to think the vacuum diaphragm was bad causing random advance/retard while cruising. With the line off, the linkage is still free to move a bit, so that may explain the much less frequent but still present, occurrence. I then went to replace the dizzy. The 002 body Scott sent me didn't have any of the guts in it and my 008 Pertronix does not fit in it, so I bought a cheap set of points and a condenser, thinking I would put a Pertronix in it if the new dizzy solved the problem. Well I think it did. I have driven it on the highway for about 50 miles with no stumble whatsoever. I replaced the points with a new Pertronix and I have a stable idle and robust cruising. Think I got it this time! Thanks for reading, and thanks for the advice guys!
  15. one is 0231180018 JFUD 4 other is 0231115081 JFUR 4 (points are opposite each other on these two). Can either of these be used on a 73 02? My current one is a 0231180008 JFUD 4 (points oriented same as other JFUD 4) - all vacuum advance (or retard). I was going to swap out one to trouble shoot a random stumble, assuming they were all the same dizzys which they are not now that I have them in hand. Research from other posts suggest : "Bosch JFUR 4 Distributor = 1600/1802/2002 Bosch JFR 4 = 2002 Tii Bosch JFUD 4 = 2002 A " My car is a manual and if the above is correct has an auto distributor in it so is the one I have installed incorrect for the car? I'm confused.


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