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MarcD

Solex
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Everything posted by MarcD

  1. Sorry. Wrong spot. Ignore that.
  2. I did a full console delete. My only complaint is I miss having a cup holder and it took a while to find a leather boot that I liked.
  3. Do you still have the DCOE pair?
  4. Not picky about the style as long as I don't have to repair the casting. I'm in South Louisiana if anyone is close-ish.
  5. Interesting. All the ones I've ever seen have been between the firewall and the pump, rather than between the pump and the carb body.
  6. You should've seen the look on my neighbors face when I cut a couple feet of his water hose so I could make sure each intake sounded the same.
  7. Yep. Carb body is completely stripped sans the choke and ventrui.
  8. Got a set of auxiliary ventruis and chokes that are proper seized in the body of a DHLA. I've put a heat gun on the carb body and beat on them harder than I wanted, no dice. They are stuck like chuck. I think I can make a puller but thought I'd ask before striking out on my own. Ideally I'd like to pull these without doing enough damage to make them unusable.
  9. If Joebarthlow doesn't want them shoot me a message and I'll give them a good home.
  10. The box cleaned up really nice. No noticeable wear on the gears. The shims are not salvageable and one of the brass bushings in the bore is worn flat on one side. I suspect that damage came from a poor reassembly. Freshened up the bearings with new 440 stainless rollers. The factory rollers were all over the place when I sized them so I went with some 5/16 balls that I had on hand. I can't imagine this being a problem. Picked the best 24 out of the box Old and busted. New Hotness
  11. The bearings are in rough shape but the plastic housing looks nice. I'll haul the ball bearings to the bearing shop and see what we can find to match them up. There is also some kind of shim in the bore thats worn badly on one side. I'll have to see if I can drive them out and find a replacement.
  12. I just did this job. I bought a set of extra long slim line wrenches and I was able to easily reach the difficult studs from underneath. The extractor bits above are excellent if you rounded off one of the old copper nuts. I like the ones by gray pneumatic. If you use the replacement studs from IE be aware of how they fit into the head. Mine had a very tight fit. I'm use to studs that go in almost finger tight where these required some not so insignificant effort.
  13. One can accomplish alot with a 3lb hammer and a torch! What about these IE rebuild kits I see advertised for $550? The quick ratio kit looks interesting. They are obviously sourcing bearings from somewhere.
  14. After going to WAR with the pitman arm I was finally able to pull the shaft and gear. The box felt like it was bound up but eventually broke free. The gears feel nice and tight although there is some corrosion to address. Hubris says I can polish that out. The roller is in really nice shape thank god because it looks like a huge bitch to remove/replace. My main concern is the rough feeling of the bearings on the input shaft. I'm discovering the bearings are no longer produced. The machine shop could probably work it out but is it worth the expense? Has anyone here had success rebuilding one of these without the BMW bearings?
  15. When the drops on the garage floor go from brown to black, that's how you know it's time to change the oil. It's hot out there, man. Real hot. Humid too. 7 men lost their lives taking these pictures. I think there is some slop in the mounting holes of the cover. I really want to loosen the bolts and see if I can line it back up with the mounting boss but the timing cover doesn't leak so it goes against my better judgement. In hindsight I didn't need to remove the valve cover to install the header and replace the studs. Dumb.
  16. I don't have any Hondabond but I do have some Yammabond!
  17. Replaced the gasket while I had the cover off, now I have a significant leak where the head meets the timing cover. Top side by the water neck. I think I know the answer to this but I'd rather not send the cover to the machine shop to have a couple thousandths taken off. The cover is also out of square left to right which I found strange. I want to use a little RTV under the valve cover gasket at that joint. My friends say that's trashy and I should fix it the right way. I see blunt has a silicone gasket that looks like it's thick enough to take up the space, so that's option 2. Has anyone used this silicon gasket with any success? Or should I just pull the cover and machine it to the correct height?
  18. Do you think Bonnie has a 2L cylinder head sitting around? I need one.
  19. I went from a two pole to a Twin Busch TW S3-10E. For a small garage, the scissor lift is great because you can park on top of it and it doesn't require any shop air. The one I'm using has 4 feet of lift and no center bars.
  20. When lefty loosey turns into lefty snappy offy...Plus a few other "while I'm in there" items. That broken manifold stud was in a bad spot so I went ahead and changed them all. I found the IE studs to fight a little tighter then I would normally like, on this particular head. Use your best judgment if you install these. studs. Did a quick little valve check and new gasket. The old manifold was leaking at the 02 sensor bung so I picked up a header. The studs are just finger tight in the last picture
  21. Buy one sight unseen on the internet and get some sketchy Russian fella to haul it 750 miles to your house. It's way more fun that way.
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