BarrettN

I'm currently traveling outside of the United States and was wondering if anyone ever comes across dealerships in other countries that might still have some old stock of parts that are NLA in the US and Europe? I'm in Central America, I suspect that even back in the day getting parts here wasn't easy, but I suppose I don't have anything to lose stopping by the dealership and asking.

Maybe a bladder of some sort could be used to localize and control the area where the force is applied? Maybe even one of those paint less dent repair guys have the tools to work the dent out from the inside?

You might want to look at using Wurth adhesive lubricant HHS 2000 for the glides, it's neat stuff. Goes on thinner and gets in where it needs to be, then sets up into a heavier lube.

Mmm, it hadn't occurred to me to use the higher voltage regulator, with some decent lights and AC that's probably a good idea.

Sorry I wasn't clear, but yes, I understand that someone would need to rewind an original alternator. My question was more as to what limitations there are with rewinding one, knowing that more modern alternators produce more power, I assume there may be changes in design that might keep an older unit from producing as much power even once having been rewould.

I'm curious, can anyone here comment on what limitations there are in rebuilding an original alternator versus replacing it with a more modern unit? I have a 74 tii, and have read the threads about what alternators can be swapped in from later cars, but I like the idea of having the original fitment that having an original one rebuilt would give. I'm adding AC & am planning on using a Spal fan, so I'd like to bump up the available power.

I like the sound of what the Tank Renu people do - first they bake the bejesus out of it, which should get rid of any coatings. Then they media blast the inside with steel media - they open access holes as needed to have access to all of the inside. Then they fix any holes or weak spots and weld it back up (I was told that they lead over the access holes - can you still use lead for body work in this day and age?) and then they give it a baked in PVC liner, and optionally a PVC exterior coating as well. Has anyone here used them and can confirm that what I've been told is accurate? (my source, voice call with a local Tank Renu franchise owner)

I'm guessing that the tank was stored empty?

I'm redoing my tank -it sat with gas in it for an extended time with gas in it after someone used what looks like the Eastwood kit on it, but didn't get all the rust out. Now it's a nasty mess of chewing gum and rust, I'm going to be going the tank renu method.

WTB Ireland Engineering Stage 1 springs, fronts and rears. Willing to pay or trade for parts. Thanks! Barrett

Thanks - I wasn't even thinking about rubbing - I'm only running 13s (IIRC 13x5.5 et18 - the Alpina look 13" rims) so I think that's less of an issue. I was as much interested in handling and ride quality. I've looked at the stance thread (ok, I haven't read the whole thing, 1,200+ posts!) but what I saw was more ride height, rubbing, and wheel offsets being discussed over handling and ride quality.

I will come to no surprise to those who have followed my ride height thread that I'm in the market for some different springs. I'm curious to hear feedback on what aftermarket springs are out there and how people like them. I have Bilstein HDs on my car, ideally I'm shooting for a daily driver firm sporty ride. Something that on a BMW today would at least be a M-Technic but better towards a M series suspension, but nothing that requires a kidney belt for daily driving. I suspect that the IE stage 1s will fit the bill, are there others that I should be considering? Both IE and H&R mention their springs lower 1.25" - am I right in assuming that this is based on the pre-73 spring height? I'm particularly interested in hearing from any of the lucky few with multiple cars who regularly drove different setups back to back - when you reply if you don't mind sharing a bit more such as what dampeners, size of tires & rims, or any other factors you feel made an impact, that would be much appreciated. Barrett

And if all that fails, pm me - there's an 02 local to me being parted out and the owner has been really reasonable on pricing, I need to go get a few more things off of it so it wouldn't be a problem to add one more to the list.

When you figure it out, please let me know!

Well, under the threat of being replaced the missing calipers reappeared. The springs on front match the diameter as well as the paint markings for rear springs. But the springs on the rear are still a mystery, they have no paint markings that I can see, and measure approximately 13.3 mm (!!) in diameter. Some previous owner had made some nice upgrades - Recaros, Getrag 5 speed (240), a 3.91 or 3.90 LSD, even a Hirschman red tipped antenna. New carpet set, dynamat under it and inside the door panels, they were doing things right, but it looks like things went off the rails before it was ever finished. The car had no driveshaft when I bought it. I don't think the car has moved under its own power for over 10 years. I find things like the stock driveshaft center bearing mounts removed and some hacked together made out of angle iron further down the driveshaft tunnel. It's stuff like this and these springs that make me wonder if someone later who really didn't know what they were doing got their hands on the car later.

In case anyone is wondering - I usually start writing a post on my phone, because that's where I have the pictures, then save it and edit it on my laptop to move pictures around, etc - and that's how you end up with more than one version of my original post. The current version shows the "tweaked" version - and in this case, the extra info I found while editing it on the spring markings.

Well, here's to hoping that the front springs are in the rear. Jimmy, you wrote "You probably have rear springs on the rear too" - can you tell me why you think the rears also have rear springs? I suppose it doesn't matter, now that I know that there are rear springs on the front, as soon as I get home from work today I'll be looking at the rear spring paint markings and we'll all know for sure.

OK, I spent some time looking at this over the weekend - those of you that have enjoyed the entertainment value of this thread will be happy to know that I only eliminated some possible causes, but only just maybe now have found the cause. First, for the doubters - yes, there is an engine it! OK, it's missing the airbox, exhaust, driveshaft, and battery, but that's not going to make 3"+ difference in ride height! You are all just hating on my because I picked up this abandoned beauty for such a great deal I measured from the ground to the rocker just in front of the jack point - 10.5", so about 3" high compared to others. I loosened up the nuts on the radius rod and the control arm, then did my best Greg Louganis impersonation bouncing up and down on the end of the bumper, but while the car moved up and down (it's not frozen in place), the static resting height didn't change. (OK, I stole this picture, it's not from my car - but these are the locations I loosened) The numbers on the strut tube reference back to tii struts. I did note that the strut top looks to be assembled with the spacer below, so I could drop them a little bit by reassembling the strut tops, but we're not talking about a huge difference - and having the strut assembled as it came from the factory obviously isn't the cause of this problem. I then measured the height of the spring unloaded and under under load - 9.5" unloaded, about 2" less under load. I could see that the both ends of the springs are seated correctly (and that the spring has white paint marks - I can't tell the underlying color). It wasn't until posting this just now that I went out to look up the color codes, I see "White 750-776 lbs" listed for rear springs - so it's looking like maybe the front and rear springs were switched? I've misplaced my calipers, I may have to go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap set so that my good ones will appear (because that's how it works when you misplace a tool - go buy a replacement and the lost tool immediately comes out of hiding) and I'll be able to measure the wire thickness. Here's to hoping that the paint codes on the rears match up to what should be on the front - I'd hate to think that somewhere along the way springs were lost and they kludged together whatever they could. Even better, this could explain why I can't get any clearance for the steering idler link!

Tires are 185/70/13s

You are all making me self conscious - I've got to figure this out and get it fixed, then post pics here so this thread can die before I die of shame!

My brother also suggested that I check that possibly the tops of the springs are properly seated in the upper spring perches. If the weather cooperates I'll be looking at it this weekend. My main focus is getting the other car I have out of my garage so that I can get this one in.

No, I haven't - I'll give that a shot. No driveshaft yet & it's been raining, I'll be concentrating on the car that's in my garage currently so that I can get this one inside out of the weather. It's been sitting outside for several years, but that's no reason not to get it inside asap now.

If you're willing, let me know when you're free to Skype sometime and I can show you what's in the car. Maybe looking at it live you might see the problem.

Good suggestion, I'll check which are longer - I have done very little on the car so far, this would have been done by the previous owner.