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Djthom

Solex
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Everything posted by Djthom

  1. Hi Guys. Bumping an old thread. Just got my tii back on the road. Is there a FB/instagream/other means of this group communicating? Would be nice to be in the loop on what's going on locally
  2. Hi guys. I pulled the pilot bearing out of a 74tii crank. It's a sealed bearing but had the 2 sealing caps and felt ring. Would this have been the factory setup? Or did a PO change the bearing to a sealed type and just put the dust covers back in? From what I've read on the forum I believe if you use the sealed bearing the covers and felt aren't necessary. Could I get confirmation on that? Thanks Darren
  3. Quarter inch aluminum with compound bends for strength. Grade 8 carriage bolts right through the original tracks to hold it on. Small wood wedge at the front as a guide to not roll off the end. No issues for tii or MG but the 911 clearance required a platform runners between the ramps and the tracks. I made those by gluing up some Dow insulation boards that are light weight and easy to store
  4. If you have room, consider turning a 4 post lift sideways and having some new ramps fabricated. I had mine made out of aluminum. It does reduce how much work you can do from below but let's you fit more cars! (That's another 73tii up top under the cover)
  5. I would recommend Liqui-Moly classic. It's available from Pelican or other places online. Another good option is the Driven oils which are the continuation of the old high zinc Brad Penn oils. (PennGrade is supposedly the rebranding of Brad Penn but the formula changed as detailed on various porsche sites including LN Engineering). I used to use VR-1 but have moved away from it after someone pointed out it's a racing oil and meant to be changed after each race. Supposedly it lacks some of the moisture scavengers and other ingredients that are needed in a longer term oil.
  6. Yes VTO do a replica I believe. I like the black centres as well. Nice contrast with your body color
  7. Hello. Looking for especially Kleeblatts but would also consider period correct rims. ATS, OEM FPS, cromodora, etc
  8. I had some dented and scratched pieces restored by King of trim. You might inquire there since you have the originals. I had my nose and the passenger door pieces redone since the repros were out of stock everywhere when I was finishing my car. The restored pieces matched perfectly
  9. Hi All. Just wondering if JSO5000 or anyone else ever finished their Mini wheel modifications and have the optimal ET and width sorted out. Thanks
  10. Bumping an older thread. If you're at home and looking for a project to do on your car, I implore you to fix a faulty or burnt out oil pressure light if you have that issue. A working light saved me from catastrophe.
  11. With everything set to do put the head back on, I began assembly only to discover in process that the bottom left bolt in the front cover had been broken off in the block. With no way to address that in the car, the rest of the engine had to come out. And this is where the opportunity presented itself to drag my future plans into the present since I'm not driving anywhere these days anyway. Rather than just drilling out the broken bolt, I decided to switch horses and rebuild the numbers matching engine block. My original plan had been to build up the short block some winter and swap it in. More on that in another post. The engine bay was also a bit shabby particularly around the battery tray. I took the opportunity to decrease everything and repaint the affected areas with POR15 after using Eastwood rust converter.
  12. I hope they make a serious effort to remanufacture parts. I was shocked when I entered the 02 world on how poor the selection of remanufactured parts is. By comparison in the British car world you can nearly build an entire MGB or Triumph out of new parts. I know original and NOS are always best, but when you need something you're stuck. Recently I needed a tii kugelfisher toothed pulley and my only option was to luckily find a used one.
  13. I've parched them. If you take the cover off and turn over, clean the backside as there is a lot of decomposed stuffing stick on and then contact cement a large wide patch of similar color vinyl. I put a piece of duct tape on the front face of the cover to hold both sides of the crack perfectly in place while working on the backside. After the glue dries, have someone run a stitch line down the adjacent seams in the cover hence the wide patch. You don't want it reopening when stretching over new foam which is a good idea to install while it's apart.
  14. Djthom

    Head is Ready!

    I got my head back from the machine shop and began getting it ready. Head has new stainless exhaust valves, all new guides and seals, new heavy duty Ireland rockers, reground and reground cam. I know it's a driver but I bought a new fastener set and painted all the parts in dull aluminum to keep them looking bright and clean.
  15. Djthom

    Intro to my new tii

    Martha slowly gets up bringing her beaded seat cover with her. " I know" she says eyeing the tii
  16. It wasn't long before there was trouble in paradise. I began to notice more and more white smoke on startup. And then my suspicions were confirmed by the telltale milky oil underneath the fill cap. Leaky head gasket and/or front cover gasket? A dreaded crack? Driving season ended abruptly. The engine in the car is a 74tii engine. The original engine (tall block) was included in the sale and swapped in the past for reasons unknown. My original plan was to build up the original engine and then swap it back in next winter. Oh the best laid plans of mice and men... When I pulled the head off the 74tii engine in the car I was surprised and alarmed to see it had a 121 head with piano pistons!!!! Oh oh. Based on the advise on the forum and the obvious conflict I don't know how this engine had been running as long as it did. The PO hadn't put that many miles on over his brief ownership over a couple of years. Fortunately the E12 head on the original engine checked out with no cracks. So the plan is for a total head overhaul and then put it back onto the 74 block for now. I will redo the original block at a later time...
  17. After getting the car home I set about rectifying some of the immediate concerns. 1) Falling our of 2nd. Thanks to the wealth of info on this site I was able to fix simply by torquing the gearbox output shaft nut. Problem solved 2) Upholstery. Before selling the 74 I swapped the rear seats. I had put new foams and Aardvark covers in the 74. I also scavenged the rear seat belts. For the front seats I put new foam in the bottom with heated seat elemets. I was able to sew in a patch of blue vinyl on the inside of the cover. You can see blue thread stitch lines but its passable and comfy 3) Trim. I had saved some good trim pieces from the red tii that were ok but not concourse. I swapped any belt trim for which I had better pieces without dings. 4) blower fan. Fortunately I just had to buy a new motor. The electrical and switches and relays were all ok. With all these adjustments the car is feeling better and better
  18. So here it is, the new tii. The Good; Roundie, tii, sunroof. Matching number engine included. The perfect starting point. Original BC car that never saw salt. Underside and rockers are solid except for a small patch in passenger floor. Previous owner put lowering springs and Bilsteins. The Bad: corrosion along belt line of hood and trunk lid as well as rear quarter wheel lips. Pops out of 2nd gear. The Ugly: Green cam cover and tired upholstery with some cracks. Cracked dash as expected. I won't mention the wheels for fear of starting a war.
  19. This is my third 02 in as many years. How did I get here and why? My first 02 was a roundie tii that I completely restored and sold. It's story was detailed here. The sheer cost of the restoration and the fact I already have other high level restored cars resulted in a change in strategy.... Hence my next car was to be a 3 season driver. The concept was to get maximum usage and enjoy daily driving of a vintage classic without worrying about every raincloud or stone chip. It's story is documented here. I LOVED this car and it filled the garage gap exactly as I hoped. I used the car daily and enjoyed every moment. Which brings me to the car in question. I had been keeping an eye out for a roundie tii with sunroof at a driver level comparable to the 74. I found this new 73 02tii which meant the 74 had to go. So I have ended up with what I hope will be my ideal 02tii for the long haul. Roundie with sunroof at a level I can enjoy daily for 3 seasons
  20. I measured the dome height of the piano. It's around 4.5mm. The previous owner told me today he had driven the car like this over 4 years estimate 7000 miles. I don't understand why I don't have any signs of contact. All the threads I've found on the FAQ state this combo won't work. Is it possible they put a different crank into this frankenengine? Could I tell by just measuring the stroke? I'm not ready to pull the bottom end
  21. Thanks everyone for your input. On this car prioritizing best head over originality. I will keep the other head as a spare. The car is going to be my 3 season go anywhere driver. So reliability and longevity are critical. I just want to strip off the "compromises" the engineers were making to comply with the emissions regulations of the day and get to the purest design intent.
  22. Here are the photos. I took engine apart due to leak in front cover but was otherwise seemingly running fine. I'm dealing with Frankenmotor here. I have the original block and will do a full optimal build but I'd like this current engine to keep going until I get some other projects completed
  23. Hi All I am about to rebuild my 73tii engine and have a 121 and E12 head to pick from. I plan on getting new pistons and going up to 10:1 compression. Which one should I choose? I've searched and read other posts on this question but from what I found they weren't tii specific and/or didnt consider a concurrent optimal choice of pistons. Thanks Darren
  24. I recently purchased a 73tii and pulled the head today. I was very surprised to see it had 121 head with Piano top pistons. Doesn't look like any modifications have been done. The engine block, injection pump and plenum are from a 74 so this can't be the original head. I dont see any signs of conflict Maybe as echappe suggested above there were 2 types of Piano top pistons? I have the original engine to rebuild but need this one to last me a bit longer. S
  25. Thanks. Ive done some more reading and that appears to be the case. I probably have V6 rather than V7 cone. My plan was to rebuild to a stock euro configuration with the higher compression pistons. I wonder how much impact the cone difference would have under those conditions
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