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Djthom

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Everything posted by Djthom

  1. Hi All My 73tii has a 74tii engine installed. I have the original stripped long block missing all of its tii parts. I am planning to rebuild the original engine and use the tii parts from the 74tii engine. My question is around the injection pump. It's tag number is PL04-124.02 which corresponds to a 74 pump per lists on the forum. In James Taylor's Restoration Reference on page 131 he states the Model 74 cars had a different injection pump than earlier types. Are there in fact significant differences? Did they all use the V7 control cones? If I rebuild my 73 engine with the higher compression Euro pistons will I be OK running this 74 pump? Many thanks Darren
  2. Hi All. My car has a replacement 1974 tii engine 2781974 installed. I'm fortunate to have the original engine that I'm going to rebuild and install. Just posting in case someone down the road is looking for their lost matching engine....
  3. Is Pierre still making these? Some of the old threads don't work and the links to his former website don't either. Is there any updated contact info?
  4. What were the original pads made of? Mine got a bit hot today and were smoking a bit. I assume that was just years of oil burning off but I'm wondering what else I might have been breathing. Did they contain asbestos?
  5. Could someone post the dimensions of the warm up regulator come retainer tool so I can make one? I've already made the others as indicated above and saved the big bucks.
  6. The synchros turned out to be ok well within spec. But the rear flange nut was loose. By tightening it, I could see the engagement with 2nd gear was improved. All back together and works great. I wish I had taken the advice in a couple of these posts and checked that nut before I took gearbox out and tore it apart.
  7. Yes I have. Actually initially I removed that and thought the problem went away for a few minutes but it returned sadly. Wouldnt that have been a sweet fix!
  8. Hi All I have an issue where the gearbox jumps out of 2nd gear but only on deceleration and only when the oil gets hot. I have Redline MTL oil and all of the shift linkage and gearbox mount bushings are new. It does not crunch either up shifting or down shifting normally, but when it falls out of gear and I try to engage 2nd I do often get a crunch. This has been discussed before in various ways and I've read all those posts but was wondering if the hot oil only condition might narrow down what I need to do. Synchro, shift fork, other? Thanks for the help Darren
  9. Thanks. I think it's more than reasonable price. I need to thin the herd. I'm going to miss it. So enjoyable to have a daily driver classic!
  10. Selling my 74 only because I found a 73tii. Good solid reliable driver. Some corrosion in rockers and rear wheel wells. No reserve auction https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254333893913
  11. Thanks guys. Car has VIN stamp, under hood VIN plate and steering column VIN plate. Also numbers matching so engine stamping too
  12. Hi All In the process of selling my car, some prospective buyers have asked me about registering a 1973 tii in California. Is it exempt from smog? Besides the ownership/title staying it is a 73 and then email from BMW stating its build date, is there any other formal documentation required to get exempt? Maybe someday I will be lucky enough to be registering all my cars in the sunshine Thanks. Darren
  13. Thanks. I fixed my 74 yesterday so I'm not distracted with that task
  14. All fixed with 65psi at idle. I believe the incorrectly installed oring was the root cause in the end. I lost a few weeks of driving but I'm glad it happened when it did and now I have new gaskets on the front of the engine and the pan. If you're reading this please use it as a reminder to make sure your check oil light bulb is working and not burnt out
  15. Hi Mike, I did crack the fitting to see if any oil was there but nothing. I think I know what happened. The bent oil pan baffle and missing bolt on the pickup hanger of the oil pump suggests the PO had it apart before. I didnt have to raise the engine to get the sump off. The o ring on the little pipe had some telltale indentations that look like it was pinched. I think they may have put the o ring in the body of the pump rather than on the pipe when last installed. I opened and cleaned the pump. Resealed it. Made an adapter to spin the rotor with my drill and its pumping oil. So I'm going to assume it was the oring incorrectly installed which gave way and put back together when I get my gasket set.
  16. Hi All Selling my 73tii on BaT. I also have a blog of the restoration on the forum. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002tii-24/
  17. its been a conflicted and multifaceted decision process, but I have decided to list the car. I've enjoyed this project immensely and am still enjoying my '74. I'm sure I will have another tii at some point
  18. Yes for sure. Got to love the "while its apart... ." trail. But that's part of the fun of having vintage machines
  19. Thanks Hans. I will look at that o ring also. I took the front covers off to see if there was any type of internal oil leak inside the timing chest. The car had sat for awhile. I bought a new filter thinking some sludge might have worked loose and blocked the old one. Are those o rings standard sizes that I can pick up at a local hose and hydraulic shop or do i have to order from part supplier?
  20. HI All I have a 74 that I've been using for months as a daily driver. The other day I started it and the oil light was on. I know it wasn't on the night before because I was watching the fuel gauge on my way home. I put my oil pressure gauge on and confirmed no oil pressure. No oil leaks or oil in the coolant. Since then I've pulled the pan, taken off the oil pump. Everything seems fine including the relief valve. The only thing I noticed was the o ring in the bypass tube was unseated. But that might have happened as I took it down. Has anyone had a similar issue? With no smoking gun I'm reluctant to just put it back together and repeat.
  21. It changes so much with lighting and camera settings. The body shop looked up the formulation. Its still in the database
  22. Finally the project is complete! Here are some photos and description of the final product. As you can see, I had the side markers and reflectors deleted. I also got rid of the knee height rub strip. I installed euro turn signals and new short stainless bumpers with the integrated euro plate lights. I sourced earlier bumper brackets to pull them closer to the body. I purchased new rain gutter trim, rocker trim, tail panel trim and badges. The beltline trim is mostly new with a couple of professionally restored pieces that aren't available currently. I used King of Trim and they did a fantastic job. The driver side grill in in great shape. The passenger side has some corrosion. I decided to keep it and use it. It's the original one the car was born with and the overall finish matches the other pieces. I will keep an eye for a better one and may look into having the original badges restored. In the end I achieved what I had set out to achieve. A sort of euro/backdated tribute to the original E10 design combined with the awesomeness of a tii.
  23. Djthom

    Trunk

    In what could be the most boring post in this blog, here are some photos of the trunk. New seals, white seam covers, and vinyl for the side and floor covers. I modified the original battery bracket to reuse here. Its sitting on rubber insulators. I added a photo of the tank before the panel went in. Shame that bodyshop painted top won't be seeing the light of day anytime soon.
  24. Djthom

    Bottoms Up

    The exhaust is the stainless one from Ireland Engineering. The red cable is indeed battery. I relocated the battery to the trunk for a cleaner engine bay
  25. With spring approaching and with just a few trim bits left to be completed, I'm looking forward to seeing a lot more of the top than the bottom. But here are some pics before it comes down off the lift for spring.
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