ClarenceTE72

Hello, I'd like to install my mirror. I have the mirror, gasket and holder but I don't have the hardware screws. Email me at ctdriver86@gmail.com Thank you!

any advice on doing this well chargin? I just ordered a set and will be trying to put this on this weekend.

Yea, I just emailed esty earlier today. Unfortunately black is only available on the larger loop carpet set. I'll shop around for a black set before I settle with the grey. Thanks for the response!

Hey Mlytle, is your carpet set the grey smaller loop (H4)? Looking for a carpet set that easy to clean also. I was hoping for black smaller loop but it's not available

If your using coilover springs, I recommend swift springs. They are the most accurate linear springs. The response and predictability of the car is very controllable with the right damper setup. What is the car used for? Awesome beast by the way

Yea I'm trying to get that one, and 1 more to complete my set. haha

bump, will consider 2 15x7 mahle's

It's a bit of a long shot but I'm looking for 1 BBS mahle rim if anyone has one they'd like to get rid of. Needs to be 15x7. Only looking for 1 rim. Email me at ctdriver86@gmail.com Thank you!

So what fuel pump did you end up using? I'm also having an issue with cyl 1&3 running rich and 2&4 running lean.

I finally finished the front suspension as the parts came trickling in last week. I was scrambling to finish everything by saturday as I attempted to make an appointment with ken blasko for front alignment and a quick tune. Swift springs Came! Here is the rest of the parts, new calipers, porterfield brake pads I assembled it first without the rotor to build the new hardlines from the calipers to the bracket on the strut. cleaned the hubs for new bearings New bearings and race Finished assembly The car had been sitting for weeks. So after I bled the brake system, I pulled it out on friday afternoon and gave it a wash. The suspension is a little too low for me, that's the highest it goes. Since it's setup for autocross, I might have to extend the strut so I can get 2-3 inches of stroke on rebound. I'm really enjoying the color under sunlight when it's clean. Saturday At Vintage BMW Racing. The car drove pretty well on sunday. Tom from Vintage BMW racing gave the carbs a quick tune and it made a very noticeable difference in MPG and driveability. I did have some cooling issues throughout the day, I think I may need a higher pressure radiator cap and silicone hoses. Possibly and oil cooler in the future. But I'm overall impressed with the suspension setup it has now. I still have th do the rear bushings better rear brakes. Overall I was able to do a 1:38.3 with the current setup and an open differential. I'm hoping to shave a few seconds off after getting a 3.91 LSD diff and rear bushings and brakes. Till then!

Last week, I worked on the car after work as much as I can as I waited for the rest of the parts that came trickling in. I was signed up for Open track at Streets of Willow on Sunday so I was eager to finish hoping there would be little to no setbacks. One setback I encountered was that I was actually running the brake system with DOT 5 silicone fluid. So I wanted to switch back to DOT 4 or 5.1 for better brake pedal feel. This is somewhat a general quick write-up in case someone accidentally mixes DOT 3/4/5.1 (non-silicone) with DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid and don't want to spend an arm and a leg getting it flushed at a shop. From my online research, denatured alcohol was the solution to flushing silicone out of the brake system. I disconnected the rear brake lines and attached empty water bottles to it. I took another water bottle, clear rubber hose, and end cap from a gear fluid bottle and attached it to the rear main line on the master cylinder. I slowly poured the denatured alcohol and gravity fed it to the rear. It worked! All of the gunk and silicone fluid flushed out until the fluid was clear. Here is some left over fluid Sorry I don't have more pictures of the old fluid, I forgot to before I dumped it. It was really dirty. Here is the clean fluid. After the flush, I just blew the rest out with my air compressor I did the same method for the front lines since my lines were disconnected waiting for the new calipers. I just put a cup at the end of the lines and poured the denatured alcohol through the system till the fluid was clear and blew it out with the air compressor. Once I had my brake system back together, I manually bled the system through pumping the brake pedal with the help of my sister. After I got all the air bubbles out, and did an extra bleed rotation just in case. Everything works fine now and my fluid is clear and clean! Brakes are much firmer than with DOT 5 Hope this helps you guys! I will update another blog with the finished suspension.

Hello, I'd like to start rebuilding my rear differential/subframe. Wanted to know if anyone local has a rear subframe I can use to rebuild so I can just swap it in once its ready instead of having the car sit on jackstands (sometimes I need to move it) Email me at ctdriver86@gmail.com Thank you! Clarence

Thanks for the info, any update? Any more issues? I'm debating converting from my weber 45s so I can drive the car more with better mpg.

Reviving this thread for the one who have experience. I'm trying to buy volvo upgraded calipers and wanted to know if anyone can suggest the right caliper brand to get or can suggest which to stay away from. I know ATE is different from girling. But at the rock auto website it has girling calipers from A1-cardonne, centric, beck/arnley, raybestos, astra, centric and nugeon. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/emailpagetofriend.php?ni=596 Can someone direct me in the getting the right girling without having to over pay or getting the wrong one? I would greatly appreciate it. I have a track day comming up and I'd like to get the right caliper to put together in time. Thank you!

My japanese inspired retro/modern 02. Working on the suspension right now for future track days.

very beautiful car!

I've been driving the car as much as I can since I got it. I took it for some spirited driving and was surprised at how well the car handles. The previous owner had mentioned that he would like the car to go to someone that will enjoy driving it and as we discussed. I was looking for a car that I could enjoy driving. So after a couple of hundred miles of driving the car, I decided to go a more street/track version of the car in order to be able to enjoy as much as possible. So I have since sold my CSi wheels to a happy tii owner and bought a set of 14x7 enkei RPF1 wheels for a miata. The wheels don't fit perfectly in the front and I had to ad a spacer. I'm running dunlop z1 tires for grip. I'm happy with the look as I wanted a retro/modern look for the car. Hence why I decided to run a 14" rim. Not to mention the rim only weighs 8lbs! I noticed a good amount of difference under acceleration. I also added some cibie headlights with yellow vintage h4 bulb covers to give it a more nostalgic look and bought some good condition driver grills for the car. I'm very pleased with the look at this point. I've also decided to rebuild the shifter, which made a huge difference in driving feel. Using the z3 shift lever with new parts from IE, the car feels much more solid when shifting. before after I've also realized that the car came with tii struts/brakes. Which was great! I cleaned them up and refreshed them. So I started to piece together the e12 calipers so I can do a big brake upgrade. But as a working student, I decided it might be better for me to build a non-tii coilover setup over the tii struts. I then sold the tii struts to fund my coilover setup. I was able to acquire a Ground control/koni suspension. I thought this would be a better setup for what I wanted to do. Since I was about to upgrade the struts, I thought I might as well upgrade other parts of the suspension with what I had saved up. I started with the front first and will do the rear suspension later on. So I got urethane bushings, Steel braided lines, new ball joints to refresh the front suspension. Since I was refreshing the front suspension, I decided to take off the sway bars, control arms and tension rods. After measuring, I realized I had 25mm sway bars up front and 22mm in the rear. So I decided to get them powdercoated along with the tension rods to refresh them up. The only left is to complete is the brakes and coilover springs. I ordered some swift coilover springs to see how well they would be for the car setup I'm planning. Swift's coilover springs are one of the most accurate linear springs available. Here's a dyno test explaining by a privateer. http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/157535-swift-springs-dynoed.html Which translates to a more predictable and comfortable driving feel. I'm hoping this well yield a pretty comfortable ride yet aggressive enough for maximum handling capability. This has been pretty successful for the japanese tuners who have tried it. I'm hoping I could accomplish the same with a 7kg/mm = 391lb spring. I'm still waiting on the front calipers I ordered through my uncle's shop. I've ordered a set of porterfield rs-4 brake pads for the girling volvo calipers. I will update as soon as I complete the setup. I've also signed up for a track day later this may to do some testing, I'm hoping to finish the front suspension and brakes by then to do some shakedown testing.

Thank you! I'm assuming the ATE is also for a vented disk?

Hello, can reviving this old thread. Can someone confirm if the ATE or Girling pads for vented rotors are the same or different? Or have the dimensions for both? I'm doing a brake upgrade with porterfield brake pads and want to make sure I order the right caliper Thanks

Reviving this old thread. Supark, can you get us the measurements of the Volvo pads? ATE or girling? I ordered some porterfield RS4 brake pads and they came here before the calipers I ordered. I'm still waiting on the calipers but I would like to know which pads porterfield send me for which calipers so I can make sure it fits. Thank you for your help! Or if anyone can give the dimensions of both ATE or Girling caliper pads

Here pictures of the engine, as you can see, the car was painted inside out except the engine bay. I wanted to clean it up a bit so I decided to pressure wash then pastidip the engine for now to clean it up (until I have enough to re-do the paint in a couple of years). My Booster failed recently so I had that rebuilt and also gave the car a slight tune up with Iridium spark plugs and IE wires and a new cap and rotor and electronic ignition by hotspark. The Weber 45s still run rich, even after I leaned it as much as I can while running as best as possible. Might need to re-jet and add msd.

Thanks! Will do. Anyone out here willing to sell they're coilover too, I'd be open to it.

As I'm going through the car and fixing it here and there, I started with the paint. It's in pretty good shape for a car painted in the 90's. I noticed that it was never wetsanded so I took the time and hired someone to help me wetsand the car and here are the results! Before During After, I was very pleased with the results. Around this time, I also restored a set of CSi wheels I had acquired. I took the bolts off, had the centers painted satin silver and I hand polished the lips (which was very tiring) First coat of polish After Paint Final polish, my arms were pretty sore after this... I couldn't wait to have them intalled so the very next day, I got the tires mounted and put them on. I was happy, for the meantime..haha.