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pompei426

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Everything posted by pompei426

  1. pompei426
    I'm selling the following items. Everything is OBO. 1. Z4 3.0 Shifter and 5-speed press-on shift knob - $120 shipped CONUS - Noticeably shorter throw 2. BMW screw-on shift knob - $25 shipped CONUS - Compatible with any BMW that has a threaded shifter 3. E21 center and side grills - $120 shipped CONUS - Small dent on kidney that could easily be massaged out, no cracks in the grills 4. E21 Part out (trans, diff, seats, hubs, AC, front bumper spoken for) - PM for specific parts
  2. pompei426
    Eastwood Sharkhide Aluminum Protectant does a grest job. Wipe on and wipe off.
  3. pompei426
    1982
  4. pompei426
    Hello, I have a few 02 parts I am selling as well as an e21 I am parting out. The 02 Parts are as follows IE Poly Diff Mounts - $35 inc Con US shipping BMW Front Strut Covers - $25 (Inc. Con US shipping) - These slide into the top perch and cover the top of the shock- I believe these are NLA Transmission output flange seal and gasket (Genuine BMW) - $25 (Inc. Con US shipping) - Bought all three rear seals, only needed the shifter selector rod seal- These fit all? NK and e21 transmissions - Link to check compatibility: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part… New rear SF carrier bolts (the ones the rear mount slides up)- $25 (Inc. Con US shipping) The E21 I'm sorry to disappoint, but the trans, diff, seats, and steering wheel are all spoken for. But, if you need any other e21 parts, please let me know. The front grill assembly is in great shape, the fogs are crack free, all the glass is good. It's an unbastardized car, it's just had a tough battle with mother nature. I plan on keeping the car as a roller, so the hubs and rear brakes are not for sale. If you want the entire shell minus the parts I mentioned above (this car still runs and drives . . . until I start taking parts off) I'll gladly give it away for $500 OBO
  5. pompei426
    I have a set collecting dust Can I paint them red, say they're Alpina, and charge $100??
  6. pompei426
    Everyone has a set of these and no one wants them. They're not exactly original as the were installed just to comply with US DOT regulations. $50 for an unwanted paperweight is laughable.
  7. pompei426
    Toby, you are very correct. The POR15 fumes are getting to me. For some reason I still think its 2017. Harv, I made my decision after hearing your .02 cents. A 205 RA1 is plenty of grip (for now).
  8. pompei426
    Hey Beach Bum. This must be De Ja Vu, but it's exactly 2 years later and I just dropped my 13x6 borranis off for some 205 RA1s this morning. I have a very similar setup to you (GC plates, 300lb/250lb, ST sways, etc) and I'm wondering how it turned out. I do not have rolled fenders, but I'm assuming I will by the time I get back on the road. Did you have to pull the fenders at all? Thanks in advance! - Chuck
  9. pompei426
    I am selling a NLA and NOS M10 crate motor. The part number for this 2L long block is 11001261408. This is a factory rebuilt 1974 motor with later/upgraded rockers and valve seals. It was first shipped to BMW NA in New Jersey, then to Apple Motors in Virginia. From examination it appears to have 9:1 'piano top' pistons with a slight overbore of 89.22mm. Everything in the box is included in the sale. I would prefer to sell local and am willing to meet halfway up to 2 hours. The photos should answer all your questions, but if not, please ask. Photos: https://imgur.com/a/P1bwd
  10. pompei426

    Scope Creep

    pompei426 replied to zinz's topic in Off-Topic

    Jim, the plans continue. The rear SF is completely torn down, but I'm leaving the stub axles in. The gas tank is now drained and out of the car. I wish I knew the tank had more than 5 gallons in it before I started draining it. Oh well, only took 2 days for the garage to smell like carb cleaner and purple power again. Bumpers are coming off tonight. And blasting will commence shortly. Oh, also need to pick up a crate M10 this weekend. Don't worry, a motor is next winter's project. Where does it end? LOL
  11. pompei426

    Scope Creep

    pompei426 replied to zinz's topic in Off-Topic

    Last fall my giubo decided become more than one piece. Now, both subframes are down and disassembled, I need to weld up 2.5in spring percehes, the motor is coming out in the next few weeks, I've sold my wheels and bought Borranis, and I need to por15 and paint the underside. All this because when removing my old giubo I rubber my arm against the control arm and got a piece of rust in my eye. Theres another 10 projects I've woven into this plan, but luckily I'm forgetting most of them. What are the odds the car is back on the ground in May? - Chuck
  12. pompei426
    Ed, love this look. I have the exact same wheels and they need to get wrapped soon. Does this tire only come in a 185, or is there a 205. And if there is, do you think it'd fit? - Chuck
  13. pompei426
    292 because it's a great all around cam for a hot street motor. A little higher or a little lower is fine depending on where you want to make power and how high you want to rev. Springs? Definitely, everything in the motor should be paired with other components E12 or E21 because big valves, a 121Ti is hard to come by. If I had the choice I'd go with an e21. Better chamber design.
  14. pompei426
    Compression and Cam are where you make power 9.5:1 to 10.5:1 pistons Schrick 292 (284 isn't worth swapping in) Use an e12 or e21 head Weber 38/38 (for simplicity and drivability) or 40s (for WOT, looks, and sound) Shorty header (for low end) or a Tri-Y header (don't go for the biggest diameter primary) HD rockers and springs Shave a few lbs off the flywheel Balance and lighten everything (this is where you can save or spend the most $) Add a windage tray Add oil pan baffles Properly tuned, you should be making around 150-160hp
  15. pompei426
    I'm in 20707. I really only need a cam, crank and pistons. I have 2 heads, 2 blocks, and everything else. I'd worry about an oil-starved cam as well.
  16. pompei426
    If you weren't so far away, I'd buy it in a heart beat. I'm in MD and I see you're in UT.
  17. pompei426
    Looking for a new Schrick 292. Wondering if anyone has one collecting dust that they have no plans to use. Figured I would check before I buy a new one.
  18. pompei426
    It's all dependent on compression and timing. A California flattop (8.0:1) motor only needs regular unless you advance the timing a whole bunch. As Harv said, when you have the cam and compression, go for the good stuff.
  19. pompei426
    Yes, but they can be found new online
  20. pompei426
    I'm looking for a strut brace in decent shape. I figured I would check here before I buy a new one. Anyone have anything they'd be willing to sell?
  21. pompei426
    Here's what they look like in silver with caps and chrome lugs. I run a 8mm spacer in all 4 corners. IMO I think 250 is a little high for steel Toyota wheels.
  22. pompei426
    Looking to upgrade from H&Rs to Stage 2s. Hopefully they'll be an improvement at autox.
  23. pompei426
    Do you have any photos of the wheels on your car?
  24. pompei426
    Purple Power and a pressure washer worked great. Thanks! Sold it in 15 mins on FB.
  25. pompei426
    I am selling my Getrag 232 4-speed transmission. I converted to a 5 speed this Spring, and no longer need this transmission. The transmission was taken out of my 1971 02 at 88k miles and is original to the car. This transmission has performed flawlessly over my 5 years of ownership. It is not cold natured. It does not 'crunch' into 2nd gear (or any others). It does not pop out of gear. I have ran Redline MTL in it for the past 5 years and it hasn't leaked a drop. All in all, I'd say if you are looking for a 4 speed, this one is in great working order. I also have the correct driveshaft. If you would like that as well, it yours. Please let me know if you need any info or more photos. I live between Baltimore and DC and I would prefer a local buyer, but I'm willing to ship at buyers expense. I will also be traveling to Columbia, NC and VIR in the month of August and would not mind bringing it along if it is more convenient for you.
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