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pompei426

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Everything posted by pompei426

  1. The last 2 have been Febis. I had to bend the rod on my M10 245. Before install the M20 245 was throughly inspected. Yah, I noticed that on the last go around when one of the bolts backed out. A new flange will be going on when I replace the guibo. I'm pretty sure, as this one was propped up at least once before install and it leaked fluid from the top. I don't see why it wouldn't be clear now.
  2. Hey Markster, any luck with any of these tips? I'm on my 3rd shift shaft seal on my 245 and absolutely disgusted as I've put less than 100miles on my car and it's leaking and the guibo is getting chewed up somewhere (again). FWIW, I put Teflon tape on both shift plate mount holes, I have 2 shift shaft seals sandwich-ing graphite rope and dielectric grease, and the fluid is still finding a way past and making an ugly mess. The only thing I haven't done is shave the guibo, but maybe thats what's necessary? Everything is perfectly aligned and there's minimal flex on the guibo through the rotation. I don't know why Getrag put such little clearance between the shaft and guibo. If this issue persists, I'm yaking the 245 and throwing a 260 in (m20 swap).
  3. Hey Everyone, I'll probably regret this, but I'm selling the QR steering box I've had in my car for the past 4 years. I'm 'softening' my car so it's less of an AX hot rod, and more of a road trip car. The sport shocks are turning into HDs, the 100TW Toyos are turning into CN36s, and I figure my original steering box will work just fine and save me the parking lot arm workout. This steering box was an amazing upgrade over the stock box when it came to performance driving, though a wheel larger than 350mm is recommended, especially with added caster and 205 Toyos. As far as the condition, I popped off the top, had a peek, and everything looks great. I didn't see any pitting. How I had it adjusted, out of the car, on center, there's not much of any play and I can sweep the arm from side to side with just the push of a finger. There's no binding or tough/rough spots in the arc. Before I installed it, I tensioned it on the bench, and it still feels the same 4 years later. I don't know much, but I knew it was better to have the steering box a little loose than too tight. With new fluid, it's ready to be bolted into another car and enjoyed! I'm asking $2,500 but open to offers. Con-US shipping is included.
  4. Hey Everyone, I'm selling my Maxilite Alpina wheels with new Yokohama Advan tires. The wheels are 15x7 et12 and the tires are 195/50/15s. I mounted one and decided it's not for me. There weren't any fitment issues, I just like the look of my 13s too much. Selling everything for what I have in it. I'd really like to sell local/in person (located in 20707), but I can ship at your expense. Price is reduced to $1,600 OBO
  5. I am selling a M10B20 I just removed from my 2002. The motor runs, but it did huff and puff more than the big bad wolf. Needs new rings and valve seals. Besides that, it ran great. Has a stock cam and 8:1 flattops, an E21 head, but somehow kept up with Tiis. I'm selling the motor with a weber 32/36 that has been jetted to C.d.iesels prescription, a M3 starter, and a year old E21 (one wire) alternator. I WILL NOT ship, but I don't mind driving a little to meet half way.
  6. I am selling my perfectly working ignition system. If you're tired of adjusting points, or have ran out of matchbooks since everyone vapes, this deal is for you. With these parts, you just plug and play. The wiring and modification to the distributor is already done. This system has worked flawlessly since I've owned it. Price is $200 and includes ConUS shipping
  7. Hello, is this still available? Also, any insight on how difficult it would be to swap front sections? Best, Chuck
  8. I am selling my Weber 38/38, Canon intake manifold, and throttle rod. The 38/38 provides a nice upgrade from the 32/36 but still maintains the 'set-and-forget' reliability. These items were purchased from IE. In addition, this comes with the water jacket housing from my old 1bb carb and a rebuild kit for this carb. It doesn't need to be refreshed, but I wanted to do it anyway. I have since changed my plans and don't need this anymore. Price is firm at $450 and includes ConUS shipping For reference: The carb from IE is $375 The manifold from IE is $230 The throttle rod is $35 Less
  9. Marshall, I'll be rolling in with 2 E34s. I also gave the details to Manny (E30), Kevin Grim (2002), and my friend Tom (E28).
  10. Marshall, I'll be joining once again. I assume we're going with the standard 8-8:30 departure from your house?
  11. I have not purchased Bav control arms yet as I want to buy the NLA part first. And yes, I need E9 or Pre-74 Bav rods.
  12. I am referring to the rods that link the control arms to the front subframe.
  13. If you have a set, I'd love to buy them. Thanks!
  14. Go for the 2.9L M20 with ITBs or trip Webers. It'll blow the doors off the S14 cars.
  15. Reviving a dead thread here for future readers. It is important to match all aspects of the motor with one another. The 2 most important variables for a M10 (or really any motor) are cam and compression. Those 2 things need to be compatible, then you can determine intake, exhaust, ignition, etc. A 1.6 or 1.8 will only make a hotter cam less street-able as you aren't displacing as much air/fuel as that cam was intended to flow.
  16. The scraper/windage tray pictured is actually on a block with long rods and a 84mm crank. Minor alterations (grinding) are required.
  17. I know the 123 is great, but I think the people that see the real gains didn't know how to properly tune their distributor. I'll likely go to it, but I'd like to use it on a real dyno, not just the butt dyno. The windage tray scrapes the excess oil off the crank
  18. I'm currently also in the process of piecing together a stroker M10. I've talked to a lot of brilliant people and what I've come up with is the following. E12 Head (what I have) Schrick 304 (@Harv, you and few others have convinced me) 10:1 CR IE 144mm rods Weber 38/38 (@kbmb02 I'm interested to see hear what you do to get the most out of that carb) S14 2.3 crank (snout threaded and keyed) Tii recurved dizzyARP head and main cap studs Single row chain IE adjustable cam sprocketIE Alpina-style header IE windage tray IE oil pan baffleLightened stock 228mm flywheel I'm hoping with the adjustable cam gear I can bring the 304's 'sweet spot' just a hair as I like to have solid mid-range power. I estimate when properly tuned this setup should make 170-180 at the crank, but feel free to crush my dreams and say 150. All I know is that whatever this motor ends up making will be light years better than my current 8:1 'smoker'. Jason, I'm curious what the extra displacement from the S14 bore will yield. It'll certainly increase torque, which is what you're after. At the very least get the head professionally ported so the extra CCs have a chance to flow up top.
  19. Completely forgot to add that. The wheel is 360mm.
  20. Hello, I am selling a 1970 Personal/Nardi steering wheel for a 2002. I purchased this wheel from Hans Wortelboer roughly 2 months ago. This is a beautiful wheel in excellent condition. I am selling it because it's frankly too nice for me to use and I miss the thumb pads and fatter grip of my Momo. Price includes ConUS shipping
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