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Conserv

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Everything posted by Conserv

  1. Conserv
    Just as an FYI, these are actually two independent parts for each headlight, assuming you don't count the feathery gray gasket that's generally missing or badly cracked by now. The asymmetric filler ring is a spring-fit into the front of the headlight retaining ring. All U.S. headlight buckets have the headlight retaining ring -- chromed on the earliest cars, then silver cadmium plated until the end of the round taillight era, and black powder coated for the square taillight era. The headlight retaining ring fastens to the headlight bucket with three screws. But deep grille cars -- all U.S. '02's from 1966 through mid-1972 -- also have the additional asymmetric filler to dress up an otherwise awkward gap. You just squeeze the asymmetric filler and insert it into the retaining ring: that open gap disappears. Below, the headlight retaining ring in the background, the asymmetric filler ring is in the foreground. These aren't for sale; they're merely for illustration. Regards, Steve
  2. Conserv
    Photos illustrating steel rims in early brochures: The first two photos are from a German-language 1600-2 brochure, dated July 1967. The third and fourth photos are from an un-dated English-language 1600-2 brochure probably dating to early in the 1968 U.S. model year ("early" because the instrument cluster bezel is silver like a 1967 model, but a 1968 model because of the 1968-only smooth steering wheel hub and the U.S.-mandated padded dash that arrived approximately October 1967). The fifth and sixth photos are from an English-language 1600-2/2002 brochure, dated May 1968. Regards, Steve
  3. Conserv
    Walloth & Nesch sells the plugs! Welcome home! Regards, Steve
  4. Conserv
    Wurth’s Wheel Silver or Krylon’s Dull Aluminum are some of the best approximations of the original wheel color. There are threads that discuss these as well as other paint and powder coat options, including satin clear coat, etc., to mimic the original appearance. Your use of “Smokey” gives me a slight pause. One person might use that term for the original color, another might use that term for a darker-than-original re-paint. Below is a February 1967 (“2” over “67”) Lemmerz rim with fair-to-good original paint. This is the spare tire rim from the ‘67 1600-2 I owned from 1974 to 1976. I was the second owner; it had 54,000 to 8?,000 miles on it during my ownership tenure. Your ‘67 rims should be similar. Note: Lemmerz, one of the most common steel rim suppliers for the ‘02, painted most of their rims entirely black after production and then painted the front faces silver for BMW, leaving solely silver overspray on the reverse and barrel. On the rim below, you can see some of the black under-paint bleeding through the thinned original silver. I wonder if this is some of the smokiness you’re seeing in your rims. Lastly, BMW did not sweat the details on their steel rims. Paint was sloppily and unevenly applied. Runs were fairly common. Colors varied slightly from batch to batch. Recall, most of a ‘67’s rim’s face was soon-to-be covered by (standard) hub caps and (optional) trim rings. Regards, Steve
  5. Conserv
    Thanks. It’s the carbon cannister for the fuel recovery system. Fumes from the gas tank are piped from an expansion tank in the trunk, to the carbon cannister, and from there into the air filter. With the installation of the Weber — and removal of the stock air filter housing, they probably removed the cannister and, possibly, plugged the lines. I’d expect your car has already been partially or completely de-smogged by now. Regards, Steve
  6. Conserv
    +1 I use info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com. I don’t know if that initial “info.” makes a difference. Oh, yeah, then please post your car in this forum’s Registry! Regards, Steve
  7. Conserv
    One note regarding Mark’s excellent de-smogging instructions: unless your ‘76 was delivered new in California, it will not have a Thermal Reactor exhaust manifold. The “outside-California” ‘76’s, known as “49-state versions”, have a more benign manifold: not as free-flowing as a tii exhaust manifold or a shorty header, but not nearly as awful as the dreaded Thermal Reactor manifold. Welding a 49-state exhaust manifold, as a temporary solution to getting your car into regular use, is a good idea, as long as it’s cheaper than a good un-cracked replacement. If you provide some photos of the engine compartment, we can probably confirm whether your ‘76 is a 49-state or a California version. Below are some photos of my 49-state ‘76, especially showing the non-Thermal Reactor exhaust manifold. On other matters, all ‘02 A/C is post-factory, installed at dealerships or later. The three most common brands are Frigiking, Behr (most “OEM” in appearance), and Clardy. So even the Behr unit — Behr manufactured the ‘02’s original radiators, heaters, heater valves — would qualify as “aftermarket”. Lots of threads, as well as Rob Siegel’s book on the subject, discuss ‘02 A/C in detail. Compared to modern cars, or even to U.S. domestic cars of the ‘02 era, ‘02 A/C generally sucks. But, it also expands the driving season, and often the willingness of a spouse to agree to taking “your old car”... ? Regards, Steve
  8. Conserv
    Sorry to wander off topic, AJ! I’d swear that never happened before...? Our German colleague, Henning, is hoping to inherit my one-owner ‘76, and, thus, keeps close tabs on my use and modification of the car.... ? Regards, Steve
  9. Conserv
    +1 Yes, that’s precisely it! When you’re cruising at 70 mph, near 4,000 rpm’s (with a stock camshaft), the engine is so....”on cam” and responds instantaneously with a healthy surge to additional accelerator pedal: no shifting, just more pedal. And that surge is wonderful from 4,000 to just past 5,500 rpm’s (remember, stock camshaft and original Solex!). Best regards, Steve
  10. Conserv
    I’m glad you’re paying attention, Hen! ☺️ I guess I need to manage your expectations! Don’t expect to get more than 23 mpg out of my ‘76. Its fuel mileage range, from Day One, has been 17-23 mpg. The balanced and blueprinted engine, and the shift from 3.90 to 3.64 differential, haven’t changed the fuel mileage one iota — I suspect I rev it even more since the rebuild! As it happens, it was 93-94 degrees F when I took the photo and the A/C was on continuously. I hope you don’t mind. Covered 600 miles that day! Best regards, Steve
  11. Conserv
    And, if that happens, I’d take it as a sign that the “performance M10” is meant to happen now! ? Regards, Steve
  12. Conserv
    A slight clarification on the above: The 49-state version of the U.S. 1976 model used the E21 head, shared with the then-new e21 series — I’m fairly confident the the name of the E21 head, introduced in the spring of 1975 on the new e21 series cars, is not a coincidence. These 49-state versions, of course, were the only ‘02’s to receive the 3.90 differentials: California versions of the U.S. 1976 model used the E12 head, and the more common 3.64 differential. After 40+ years with my ‘76’s 3.90 gearing, when I recently swapped in an LSD, I chose a 3.64 unit. That wasn’t an accident. The former gearing may have well-suited my 20’s, but the latter better suits my 60’s....? Below, cruising south through Fancy Gap, VA in my ‘76 last August. The indicated 72 mph was very close to the actual speed according to my GPS. Given that the car already had the 3.64 LSD at the time, I’d guess that my tach has some error, and the rpm’s were closer to 3,750 than to the indicated 4,000 (stock 165HR13 Michelin XAS tires). Regards, Steve
  13. Conserv
    My ‘76 (49-state version) retains an E21 head. It has custom aftermarket pistons one might describe as “quasi-piano-top” to achieve a compression ratio of approximately 9.3 to 9.4. My ‘76’s head has not been shaved. Regards, Steve
  14. Conserv
    AJ, The engines were designed to rev. And even though overdrive transmissions had already been around for decades, BMW’s engineers never made an overdrive transmission available from the factory on an ‘02. Why? because everything that happens on an ‘02’s M10 happens above 3,500 rpms. Yes, if your daily driver is turning 2,000 rpms at 70 mph, an occasional drive in an ‘02 — 4,000 rpms at 70 with my ‘76’s original 3.90 differential — may seem a bit...busy! But deal with your exhaust leaks so you can actually drive the car now! The more you drive it, the less you notice the...busy-ness! As stated above, make certain you have 20W-50 oil in the car. Feel free to overhaul the carb (Solex or Weber), if it’s not been overhauled in the last 4 years or 40,000 miles — hint, odds are that it’s not been. Even when you do a “performance build” on a 2002, there are elements that could carryover. One thought is the following. There is a strong movement towards the electronic “123 distributor”. Find some of the long, endlessly-raving threads discussing it on this forum. If you think it might appeal to you, buy it now. You can tune it to your car’s current state, and it will eliminate a common “high-mileage M10” ailment: the distributors are worn, have lots of slop, and have lost their original advance/retard curves. When your engine has new pistons, higher compression, a hotter cam, etc., you’ll just use the 123’s app to adjust the curve for the “new M10”. Welcome to ‘02’s, and don’t be afraid to rev an M10. I contend that anything less than 2,500 rpms is lugging the engine and no one wants to do that.... ? Regards, Steve
  15. Conserv
    And of course even the 1974 2002 turbos had to...endure the rectangular spare tire hold-down, designed for the earlier steel rims. Below, VIN’s 4290376 and 4290675, respectively, reveal their spares with rectangular hold-downs. Notice that the first owner, perhaps tired of the bad fit, flipped the hold-down upside down! Regards, Steve
  16. Conserv
    More information about "Lemmerz"
    This is the standard rim for the factory turbo, and only the factory turbo. In outward appearance, it strongly resembles the styled steel rims standard on other square taillight ‘02’s. It differs in width and offset. No other 2002 sub-models received factory rims wider than 5” (Italy and England had country-specific dealer-option alloy rims available in a 5.5” width, by FPS and Dunlop, respectively). The factory option rim for a turbo was a 6” alloy rim, manufactured by both Mahle and FPS. The “turbo rim” was also distinguished from other styled steel rims by a bi-color paint scheme: at least the front face of the barrel was painted the traditional silver. But the front face of the center disk was painted gray. Part number 36111112607 appears on most (all?) of these “turbo” rims. The current OEM parts catalogue shows part number 36111112632. A note regarding authenticity of “turbo rims”: The Euro-spec e21 was introduced in the spring of 1975 (in approximately March 1975), in 316 and 320 versions. These cars used a styled steel rim, 5.5” x 13”, ET18, identical in appearance and specs to the 2002 turbo’s standard rims. But the part number for this e21 rim appears to be 36111116430. I do not know why this part number differed from the part number for the turbo’s rims. Could replacement turbo rims have been bi-color from the factory? I think it is certainly possible — maybe even likely — and that might explain the different part numbers. The U.S.-spec e21, in its 320i version, appeared in the U.S. in approximately August 1976. Thus, in the U.S., styled steel rims in the 5.5” x 13”, ET18, size are generally dated June 1976 and later. But, in Europe, styled steel rims in the 5.5” x 13”, ET18, size, can be dated to approximately February 1975 or later. What does this mean for turbo owners? It means simply that a styled steel rim in the 5.5” x 13”, ET18, size with a date stamp prior to February 1975 is almost certainly an original “turbo rim”. But for similar rims date stamped from February 1975 onward, it would be hard to distinguish a “turbo rim” from an early “e21 rim” — unless there was a clear provenance provided by, for instance, an original owner, photographs, documents, etc. The first photo below is from an original factory brochure. The second through fifth photos are of VIN 4290376 (manufactured April 19, 1974), photos from Bring A Trailer. The sixth through eighth photos are of VIN 4290675 (manufactured May 1974), photos from Bring A Trailer. 36111116430
  17. Conserv
    Scott, If you see orange peel on a panel, it's been re-painted post-factory. The original lacquer was dead smooth. Regards, Steve
  18. Conserv
    Lacquer. Single-stage. Regards, Steve
  19. Conserv
    I agree wholeheartedly. I've asked several times if anyone can provide, if not a numeric paint reference, then simply a good photo of an original rim with the dark gray paint. Generally, the answer is, "I thought the centers were black." Not much help. Has yours worn thin from too much weather, too much time, too many washings? A darker color appears to survive in the more protected areas. And...is the center disk paint laid on top of the rim's basic silver paint? Stated differently, did they start with a silver rim? Are the backs silver or black, or some other color? Thanks and regards, Steve
  20. Conserv
    Geez... Now every time I see a couple salvage buses and a six-wheel road grader, I’m going to be thinking “Alpina Borrani?”..... ? Regards, Steve
  21. Conserv
    The silver paint BMW (and other German manufacturers) used on rims was “anything lying around”, but was generally close to what you now might get from Wurth’s Wheel Silver or Krylon’s Dull Aluminum. Having spent the last 42 years with my Polaris 1976, I have always been annoyed that the silver rims did not match the silver body! Besides being a lower quality than the (Glasurit) body paint — the body paint being two-stage at least beginning with the PVC-frei version of mid-1973 — the silver of the rims was much less “metallic” (very few metal flakes) than Polaris metallic and was considerably less glossy. Regards, Steve
  22. Conserv
    Someone needs to dig out the c.d. “spring” post, and see if there is anything relevant in there: Based in on the wire thickness and free length, the turbo’s rear springs sound like the heavy duty 2002 springs, targeted at trailer towing — see c.d.’s post. Best regards, Steve
  23. Conserv
    But to be clear, Les, although both were manufactured by CMR, the Boston rims are steel rims, welded together. They’re also not an Alpina item. The Alpina Borrani’s are all alloy, riveted together with steel rivets. The ET40 of the Boston rims is going to take a hefty spacer, but they could be made to work, and might provide some space for a car with the Big-Brakes. Best regards, Steve
  24. Conserv
    Moi? Jealous? Envious? Coveting? Well, now that you mention it: jealous as all hell! ?? Best regards, Steve
  25. Conserv
    ET20, based on my measurement of the lone example in my collection! Fabulous find! Congrats, Steve
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