kmoy2002

jp5Touring captured it fairly well. Even if you wanted to diy it which is the route I took. A new set of covers are around $700-800 from lseat or ebay. Then you need misc hardware such as hog rings to clip it back together. You're going to want new webbing for the seat bases. You might need new knobs? Maybe something was missing or broken? I had a broken weld on my bolster that needed rewelding and I needed new foam. Factor in $100-500 for these misc costs depending on how much work you need. You're looking at around $800-$1300 without the cores. $1800-$2600 is fair given the amount of work and reconditioning most of these seats need.

Where are you all getting the "red" coil from these days? Every site I've looked at has it backordered or out of stock. I have the 1.8 resistor on the car. I just need the coil. Alternatively, is the consensus now to run the blue coil, which is readily available, and ditch the resistor?

@dlacey just checked the clamp below the tuna can and it's tight where it should be. Lifted the car and looked over the new fuel soft lines and they're routed through the supports where they need to be. I snugged the bolts to the electrical connections a bit more. They were tight when I got there. @SydneyTii the pump is wired via a custom harness my mechanic created and is connected, heat shrinked, and seems tidy/snugly connected. @NYNickafter checking all the above and wire brushing a few of the ground connection points, I took it back on the road for a shake down. I've got about 7/8 of a tank full of fuel. On level road after an intersection, I again lost throttle. Same symptoms. Engine never died. I'd repeatedly actuate the throttle pedal to no response. I began changing lanes in preparations for a complete shut down but all of a sudden, after a brief hiccup, I had throttle control again. I was able to drive it back home. This issue is driving me nuts and I can't seem to chase it down haha. Good grief! The only thing I can think about that is old that hasn't been serviced is the ignition coil. I have one on order in addition to the broken throttle return spring but I'm not entirely sure these are the root of my issue. Any other items I should look at/into?

@golftii I just checked under the car and the pedal is tight to the shaft at the pedal box. I did notice the throttle return spring broken and flopping around. However to my understanding, the purpose of this spring is to help return the accelerator pedal and there is a redundancy in the system with the upper spring near the firewall. I will be replacing this spring however would this cause an absolute lack of throttle response? I can still actuate the throttle and all the linkages still pivot the arms up to the mechanical pump. Any insight? @Swiss 2002TiiI'll look into the wiring of the fuel pump. I had my mechanic do the e28 fuel pump conversion and I assumed he had kept the original wiring.

Thanks @Son of Marty just pulled this morning and the pickup screen looks good. I had forgotten they replaced the pickup when they ran new lines. I also bench tested the coil. 7.26 K ohms + to center and 3.4 ohms + to -. Not picture is the resistor and that read 1.8 ohms. I

Thank you everyone for the replies. I finally had a chance to look over all these items this afternoon. All the physical linkages pivot and articulate as they should without any signs of slipping. I manipulated the linkages by hand and by throttle and they all seem to be tied together. I pulled the battery and looked at all the ground straps and those too are all tight and tied to where they're supposed to. The car is still running points. In addition to what I mentioned in the initial post, I had new rotor, points, cap, wires, and plugs. The only item that I haven't addressed with the electrical are the coil and resistor. Fuel wise, I've changed the fuel filter 2 times since reviving the car in 2016. During that time, I had entirely new fuel lines run from tank to front along with the e28 fuel pump. It's a very peculiar symptom and doesn't happen all the time. Any other leads?

Hey @Toga, I just replaced my window rail this afternoon and have a few tips that might help if you haven't already gotten it installed. The new OE unit i s certainly much narrower and I couldn't get both the gasket and the glass in without forcing things. What I ended up doing was clamping the new unit to my workbench and working the channel open with a wide pry bar. Not the most elegant approach but it opened it up ever so slightly where both the gasket and the glass fit in snug. It'll be a bit of pry and test fit. You won't need to crank it wide apart. Hope this helps.

I recently took the tii out for a 20 mile trip and the car starts, runs (seemingly) fine, and even hit a mixture of freeway/street driving. The issue that I noticed this time is that randomly, I'll get a complete loss of throttle. Engine completely unresponsive to throttle engagement. I had this issue so I coasted off the freeway onto the service lane and the engine suddenly kicks back and I got throttle response again. I resumed driving to my destination with no additional hiccups. On my return trip hours later, I took a right turn to get onto the freeway and the same issue occurred again. Complete loss of throttle unresponsive to pedal engagement. I thought it was a fuel pump issue but the engine never died. It hovered at 1k just nonresponsive to throttle. A few moments later, I got throttle again and was able to get back onto the onramp and continue my trip back home; again without any further hiccups. I'm a little at a loss for what this might be. I thought it was the fuel pump however the engine never died and I've already had the fuel pump replaced with the Bosch e28 fuel pump. I've also changed out the fuel filter up near the radiator. I've already had a new set of plugs, wires, and distributor cap installed with less than 4000 miles on the set however granted that was back in 2016 when I got the car back on the road. I've been reading this might be a coil issue? Could this be a ignition issue? Should I replace coil, points, condenser, cap? When I did the plugs and wires back in '16 I used NKG BP6ES and it's ran fine to this date. Let me know what everyone thinks.

Hey members, Looking at options for water pump options for a tii. Most of the regular sites I shop at ECS, Turner, FCP, etc only stock the OE BMW unit. I recall in the past there were a plethora of aftermarket alternatives? RockAuto and Autozone carry an aftermarket replacement but the pumps depicted don't have that 90 degree return flange of the tii pump and look like the standard 2002 pump. Is my only option to splurge the pricey OE unit? I've read that people here have rebuilt their water pumps? I'm not familiar with that process as I was under the impression these were consumables that people often replaced rather than rebuilt. Any leads on anyone that could do that here in Los Angeles? Sources for alternative pump options? Open to hearing the collective communities thoughts. Thanks,

That's my car! I rented it a few times for this show. I haven't had a chance to watch the episodes yet nor was I on the set but the car was used a handful of times for the show. The car in question is a '73 2002tii. Fun fact, the director is a car guy and called out this car as a '73 with its long bumpers vs the shorty bumpers of the 60's. The car was almost not cast! Attaching a few shots of the car. They took off the Zender spoiler for the shoot. The same car was also rented for a music video shoot. The same fjord is featured at 0:19 https://youtu.be/Oy8y3xhLXV8?t=19 They also casted a nice 911 among others for this same shoot. They shut down the 101/110 and shot way in the early morning if you're familiar with the Los Angeles area.

For those curious, I ended up going with the eBay set and doing the work myself about 3 years ago. They are still holding up and look just as great as when they were first installed if not better looking more worn in.

My father owned this inka tii back in the 80's in addition to a fjord tii. He parted with the inka car in the late 70s early 80s in Chicago. It could be anywhere. Curious if anyone on the board now owns this car. 2762660 - BMW 2002 tii US - built October 9th, 1972 - delivered October 17th, 1972 to Hoffman Motors in New York - colour Inka (paint code 022);

Driving on the freeway, I hear is a loud thud and banging as something is being dragged underneath the car. I initially thought the muffler had broken from its hanger but to my surprise, the half shaft appears to have broken away from the flange of the differential. I didn't get a chance to crawl under the car as I had it towed to the shop. From the photo I took, it seemed as if the bolts had backed out and whatever bolts left hanging sheared or snapped. The broken half shaft also seemed to have knocked a chunk out of the differential cover. My question is how did this happen? I had the same shop R&R the differential a little less than 2 years ago. I've put on 2k miles since having the rebuilt differential put in. Could the shop have not torqued these bolts down on the drivers side properly? Do these bolts back out often? Did they use incorrect bolts? The hardware looked new. Or is it just sheer chance that they happened to back out? The shop noted that the passenger side bolts are tight. Same shop is suggesting I replace all 4 joints as one is frozen which includes new boots. Anyone have any insight? Thank you.

Can someone guide me as to where P/N 51716454226 Right and P/N 51716454225 Left door caps are installed on the car? Description indicates they cover up the recessed bolts in your door to keep that clean factory look.

Having a hard time deciding which wheels to run. Seeking opinions from the larger group

Mike is right. From what I recall, the e21 license plate light is a direct fit P/N 63261365755 for about $20 or so each. It's an original BMW part but not OE for our 2002s

A. Yes, that is the Clutch Master Cylinder B. No, it connects to the Clutch Slave Cylinder C. You need to have it connected to the slave cylinder otherwise the system will be open and you will leak fluid. There is a bleed valve on the slave cylinder.

Looks like Supersprint has come out with a new exhaust that has the "S" bend like the original exhaust. The profile doesn't look like it would match up with the cutout on the body (looks too short compared to the original). Has anyone purchased this exhaust and has fitment photos? I currently have the center exit system on my tii as that was all that was available when purchased years ago. https://www.supersprint.com/ww-en/bmw-02-series-66-77/bmw-2002-20i-100-hp-68--75/rear-exhaust-right-54.aspx#!/

I would suspect an air pocket in the system. When I changed my MC, I did not bench bleed. I filled my reservoir and let the air naturally escape through the hose from the MC to reservoir before I began bleeding. Are you using a Motive bleeder and what pressure are you pressurizing the system? Are you getting clear fluid on all of the lines and did you ensure you bled all the bleed nipples on the calipers (not sure how many there are on the 1600 but there are a few per caliper on my tii)? Did you ensure all your fittings are tight on the new MC and there is no leaks?

The base of your seat looks exactly like mine. Bought my adapters from this ebay seller and here is how they look in the car. The brackets are now less than what I paid at $135 for the set. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Recaro-Seat-Installation-Bracket-Set-for-BMW-E21-320-is-2002-Porsche-Opel-VW/253091889191?hash=item3aed73c027:g:-CUAAOSwdxdZjs9M

This was at Alchemy Works off of 3rd st. 826 E. 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90013