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Jerzy

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Everything posted by Jerzy

  1. Jerzy
    When it needed a battery, I picked one up from the local Farm & Barn and tossed it in. The next morning she wouldn't start. Fearing the worst I called a local independent shop, Toyota Specialists, begging for assistance. The owner said to remove the battery cables and clean up every contact point until it shined. Never had trouble again. The starter needs a lot of current. A thin layer of oxidation on a battery post or ground connection can block current but still present a voltage reading. I hope your problem is as simple to solve.
  2. Jerzy
    Some people have used the return line to supply fuel. For factory correct plumbing, compare this photo to the plumbing drawing in the above post -
  3. Jerzy
    #66 is the tii fuel pump The brown wire is ground. The GN-WS (green-white) comes from fuse #12 - should have voltage when the ignition is on. Step #1 is to check the condition of the fuse. Even if it's not blown, it could be making poor contact due oxidation or weak contact at the copper holders. Full schematics at - http://2002tii.org/kb/tag/electical-diagram
  4. Jerzy
  5. Jerzy
    #19 is the plastic vapor recovery tank that should be mounted in the trunk. (It's not as big as the drawing shows.) #18 is the line that I think you are saying that the fuel comes out of. #17 is the charcoal canister that the car had originally #22 is the fuel return line - often disconnected by now. #25 is the fuel return valve - often missing. Are you running the mechanical fuel pump (#24) or has an electric pump been added? If the car has an electric pump, you may be running at too high a pressure. Post some pictures if you can. The electric pump is usually mounted under the car, above the rear axle.
  6. Jerzy
    That's why I was never hired to be a translator at the U.N. A translation of the schematic key pages might be helpful to fellow NK owners. Is the '02 owner's manual on that site written in Spanish? I've bookmarked your blog and look forward to spending time there.
  7. Jerzy
    You're in luck! Download the "Manual de Reparações BMW 02" on this page - http://bmw2002.terraweb.com.pt/downloads.htm This copy includes the NK. (click the schematic to enlarge)
  8. Jerzy
    You're right - it is a black/yellow wire - not black/green. I screwed up on the translation of the color - I apologize. The socket is for the wiper relay.
  9. Jerzy
    Should be hot with ignition on. The motor "+" lead is shown as a black/green wire on the schematic I'm using. It comes from fuse #5. The black/green wire supplies power to the motor from the wiper switch. +12 volts is fed to the wiper switch by another purple/black wire that also comes from fuse #5. See if you have voltage on this wire at the switch. Here's a link to the schematic. Print out a copy - you can mark the leads you're trying to trace - http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,316840/
  10. Jerzy
    How old is that oil analyzer, and when did you last have it factory calibrated? If you really want to know the condition of your car's oil - send a sample to a reputable lab.
  11. Jerzy
    If you're like me, you seldom see the inside of your distributor. Don't forget that lonesome felt pad sitting under the rotor. Per the owner's manual, it enjoys a few drops of engine oil now and then.
  12. Jerzy
    The seal tends to stick. Take an old butter knife and bend the tip to allow you to run it under the rubber. Carefully do the entire circumference of the seal - anywhere you can reach. Then try the push-from-inside technique. If the seal hasn't hardened, the glass should come out. Save the bent butter knife - it's helpful during installation. I've never changed glass on an '02 but had success changing the rear glass on an '84 SAAB with a similar seal & lockstrip design. I had the help of two friends.
  13. Jerzy
    AND - Manual de Reparações BMW 02 Available for download at: http://bmw2002.terraweb.com.pt/downloads.htm
  14. Jerzy
    That the fuse blows after the engine fires may point to a problem with the tach or it's wiring. Unplug the 3 wire tach connector from the back of the instrument cluster - see if it still blows.
  15. Jerzy
    It's not just a matter of tightening the bearings - they need to be properly seated. I've always used the grease-in-the-palm technique to pack them. Here's two descriptions of the process. You Tube has videos. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4205243 http://www.automedia.com/Inspect,_Replace_and_Repack_Wheel_Bearings/ccr20050201wb/1
  16. Jerzy
    from Hot Spark BMW page - http://www.hot-spark.com/1-bmw.htm
  17. Jerzy
    Looks like #1843 is the one. Can't help you with the points. More info here - http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/29/32/
  18. Jerzy
    It lacks power. Keep the motor speed up and use a light touch. Patience. The bit will last longer.
  19. Jerzy
    That looks like a Pertronix Ignitor in your distributor. According to the Pertronix instructions: - The red wire goes to the free terminal on the ballast resistor (the white ceramic object mounted above the coil) - The black wire goes to the negative side of your ignition coil. If you're just trying to get the car fired up - that's what I'd try first. However, I THINK the aftermarket coil you have may have it's own internal resistor - which would allow you to bypass the ballast resistor. That relay could also be eliminated with the addition of a wire from your starter to the coil. Something to think about. Here's the Pertronix instructions and the tii ignition wiring -
  20. Jerzy
    Images found at: http://nuke.bmwyoungtimerclubitalia.it/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx
  21. Jerzy
    Images from the forums at: http://nuke.bmwyoungtimerclubitalia.it/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx Also found other Zynki's - And a couple of loco americanos -
  22. Jerzy
    - what was the dash gauge reading?
  23. Jerzy
    #74 is the fuel tank sender. The other wires are Brown/Yellow (which runs from the fuel gauge to the "G" terminal on the in-tank sender) and Brown/Black (which connects to the "W" terminal and appears to be a daisy-chain ground connection for other components) - full schematic here - http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,316840/ Here's some more useful info. I don't know who to credit for the Ohms test of the sender.
  24. Jerzy
    http://home.earthlink.net/~jennyscott/accessories.html
  25. Jerzy
    Lacking a good ground connection, the spring provides a bad path to ground. Suspect the cabling installation of your trunk mounted battery. from: Import Service - July 1991
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