brianstj

Sure it's exhaust and not fuel vapors from the tank?

I put the GTS II seats in my wife's 325i. Very firm. The side bolsters are a little too narrow for me - I like the Acura seats that put in my 2002 1000% better. And the dye job on the Corbeaus SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!! The black seats faded from sunlight like I have never seen before.

Here is a thread on my MSD ignition: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,322010/highlight,/ Still have no problems ignition wise. Be aware that the coil with the MSD system no longer acts as a traditional coil - the MSD box provides the spark energy and the coil is just a transformer. I ran with the MSD coil because I figured they were probably well matched. I had one issue when I switched from the 38/38 Weber with electric choke over to the dual 40 DCOE's. The electric choke put a load to ground on the ignition circuit, so when that disappeared I had the problem where the car keeps running even after you pull the key out. The MSD box comes with a diode to cure this, and once that was installed everything was OK.

After the regulator was gutted I was seeing a nice 3.5 PSI at the gauge. I just pulled the regulator apart, took out the spring, and drilled out the shut-off ball. I drilled it out a little larger to make sure there was no flow restriction. I am thinking now that the problem was my fuel line being too close to the exhaust. I never saw the fuel pressure act strange or the lean condition when the car was cold. I have been busy, so I just got back to the car yesterday and pulled the fuel line out. I am still trying to decide between a hard line along the pinch weld of the body or braided line through the inside of the car.

The initial run (I usually go 2000-2500 RPM for 20 minutes) is for the cam break in. You should change the oil after this initial run. Seating the rings will require putting the engine under a load to produce high enough cylinder pressures to really acquaint the rings with the cylinder walls. Every person you ask will have a different opinion about how to do this - probably best to follow your machinist's recommendation. I wouldn't worry about oil consumption until you have enough miles on it for the engine to break in. It is going to burn some oil during this process - just check it frequently and make sure it doesn't get too low.

Great experience with Terry Tinney in Livermore on the machine work for my M10 rebuild. Very knowledgeable on these engines and won't try to push you beyond what you really need, but is well equipped with the tools and know how to give you as much as you want.

I gutted the pressure regulator, turning it in to just a distribution block, and went back to the Carter 4070. Fuel pressure was sitting at 3.5 PSI running in the driveway. I'll have to take it out for a drive before I can tell if this will change things.

I think I will go back to the Carter with no regulator and see how that goes. To answer the other question, the pressure gauge is mounted straight up right at the outlet of the regulator. You can see it in this picture when I had the 38/38.

I do have a filter before the pump. I should check it and see if there is any junk in there. I am thinking that if the gauge is reading 0 PSI, then there is either a problem picking up the fuel, or the regulator is shutting off the flow almost completely. Everyone seems to be adamant about running a regulator with Webers, so I don't know if I want to remove it. Maybe I will try another one. It wouldn't bother me if the O2 sensor was consistent at idle.

This may go a bit long cause I am going to try and throw everything I can remember in here to describe the issue... I am running an electric pump mounted in the trunk with a Holley regulator and gauge up in the engine compartment. I have run this with a 38/38, and now with 40 DCOEs. Pressure is set to 3.5 PSI at idle. I noticed at various times when I had the car running with the hood up I would look down at the gauge and see it was sitting at 0. I thought maybe the gauge was messed up or something - tapping on it did nothing, but the car stayed running and seemed to drive just fine. When I switched to the DCOEs I put in a wideband O2 sensor to help with tuning. I noticed one day when I pulled in to my driveway the O2 sensor was reading way lean at idle. I popped the hood and found the fuel pressure gauge sitting at 0. So probably NOT a faulty gauge since I am also seeing a lean condition when the fuel pressure drops. But the car still drives fine - even under a load with the DCOEs, and the O2 sensor has not shown any leaning out when under load. All this time I was running a Carter pump, but I had a Summit unit laying around, so I swapped it out to see if the pump itself was acting up. Same story - but I was able to gather a little more info and test a few more things after the pump switch. So when the fuel pressure gauge is reading 3.5 the O2 sensor is showing good mixture at idle. When the O2 sensor starts showing a lean idle I can jump out of the car, open the hood, and find the gauge reading 0. The O2 sensor readings still look the same once I start driving again and even when doing some hard pulls it doesn't look like I am going lean. I also have a voltage gauge and it is staying over 13.5 when this happens at idle. I pulled in to a gas station and I was seeing the lean idle, popped the hood and saw 0 PSI. After I filled the car I started it back up and still saw the lean idle, 0 PSI. But I also noticed I didn't hear the LOUD pump buzzing away in the trunk. I popped the trunk and found that it was actually still running, but very quietly (not typical), and the motor casing felt warm to the touch. Driving away I could hear the pump start buzzing louder and then quieting down. It also seemed that when I came to a stop that if I could hear the pump buzzing loudly then my O2 readings at idle would be normal, but if things were quiet I would be registering lean. Sooooooo....any ideas on this? I am finding it strange that it looks like I am starving for fuel at idle, but I can still take off and blast down the road just fine. Anyone ever experience anything like this?

I have one, just installed. I think they are all still independent runners??? Can't really comment since I have no experience with the 2 piece manifolds and I haven't got my DCOEs dialed in yet.

I always hear Webers want 3-3.5 PSI max. Looked at Summit Racing, the only thing I found that would go below 5 PSI was a little Holley unit. I am running it at 3 PSI (fed by a Carter electric), ran great with the 38/38, just switched to dual 40's and have no reason yet to suspect it is not still suitable.

Most (all) external electric pumps will be loud. I run the Carter in the trunk and you can hear it inside the car. Run a regulator - Webers want ~3 PSI max. Holley makes an inexpensive regulator that will set this slow, and it also has 2 outlet ports for running lines to dual carbs. Get a fuel pressure gauge so you can set it correctly. You can see my regulator setup that I just hooked the DCOEs up to here http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,341018/highlight,/ - I was running a 38/38 previously with this setup.

I think the factory recommended numbers are completely non-applicable. These numbers were derived based on 30+ year old tire technology and completely different proportions from what you are now running. You can probably start with those numbers and then play around with it a bit and see where you like it. I probably wouldn't go to the max rating of the tire - probably somewhere between 28-35 is where you will land. FWIW I run at least 32 PSI in my 195/50/15 Yokahamas. Drives well and no signs of weird wear, though the amount of negative camber on the car would probably mask anything the tire pressure would induce. Also, bumping up the pressure a bit reduces the rolling resistance and can provide small effeciency improvements. I wonder if there may also be a way to check with the tire manufacturer for recommendations based on rim size and vehicle weight? I bet if you were buying tires from TireRack or something that they would be able to give a recommendation.

Years ago when I drove an old VW bug I told I guy I was running Castrol GTX. He had me pull the dipstick when the engine was hot and rub some of the oil between my fingers - not slippery at all. He told me I should switch to Valvoline, so I did on the next oil change. Tried the same thing and the hot Valvoline oil was as slippery as can be between my fingers. Been using it ever since.

Just looking at a thread asking about what brand oil everyone uses, and I noticed that almost everyone is running Xw50. Why such high viscosity? I have a fresh rebuild with a couple thousand miles. I've been running 10w40 since I put it together. In the warmest weather I have driven in the oil pressure has not gone below 55 PSI at cruise and 25-30 at idle. At start up (especially on cooler mornings) the oil pressure can easily sit at the 80 PSI mark where the pressure relief valve starts dumping. So why is everyone running this thick oil? Another thing I found interesting is that I just bought a new Toyota, and it is only supposed to run 0w20 for ALL temperatures. So what is different about modern engines that allows for such light weight oil?

I just recently built an M10 with 9.5:1, 1mm over bore, 292 cam, header , 38/38, MSD distributor and ignition box. Very solid mover, very street friendly, decent idle, good power throughout the RPM range. I am now almost ready to do the tune and take it out for the first time with the new dual 40 DCOEs - can't wait! I was really happy with the setup I started with, but love the dual side drafts and will never say no to a little more oomph. I always run 91 octane, and I think I was running 32 degrees total advance. I got a jet kit for the 38/38, but I don't think I ever got it quite right. So I installed a wideband O2 sensor to help out with the DCOEs. Also, I heard the two-eighty cams are almost no different from stock.

Webers run mostly from the low speed (idle) circuit. If everything else is adjusted as you say, then it is time to follow the low speed adjustment procedure (available from Redline Weber) and get the carb set up correctly.

I just got my DCOEs installed, and the first time I fired it up this happened to me. The only thing I can figure that happened is that I disconnected the wire powering the old electric choke on the 38/38, and I think this circuit may also be powering my MSD box. The choke may have been providing enough load on the circuit to let the car shut off? Anyhow, the MSD instructions provide a schematic and a diode to use if this happens, so I am going to give that a try.

I'm in Auburn.

I was thinking maybe slight carb misalignment too, making them open at slightly different rates. I have the new Ireland 1 piece manifold, but that doesn't necessarily guarantee perfect carb alignment. But assuming a carb misalignment would also assume that the hard stops on the carbs are machined in the perfect position and that the linkage levers are also set up perfect to hit the stops at the exact same rotation point. Could be asking a lot to think that everything is that well lined up. It seems like the only way to really tell for sure would be to mock up a little degree wheel to see if each shaft actually rotates the same amount, or if there is in fact some misalignment causing them to open at different rates. Hmmmmmmm..... I think what I will do at this point is get them all synced up at the "closed" position. It makes sense to me that a difference in opening rates would be less pronounced at WOT. I am thinking it might not be a good idea to start bending up linkage based on trusting that all the little stop tabs are bent and placed perfect. Maybe if I run in to any noticeable driving issues I will think a little more about how to verify if both carb shafts are rotating exactly the same amount...

I got my DCOE's all mounted up - loving how they look! I got the car fired up just for a minute, but something was obviously out of whack - and then the car wouldn't shut off, but that's another story! So I got the cable linkage that pulls from the center from the bottom side. I love the simplicity of this setup, but I am wondering about the adjustability. I initially set the synchronizing screw to where both carbs would hit full throttle at the same time. When I fired it up I couldn't get it to run below 2500 RPM even with the idle speed screw turned all the way out - something obviously not right. So in looking in to the linkage, I found that the "slave" carb was opened up quite a bit at "closed" throttle when I adjusted the synchronizer screw for hitting full throttle at the same time. So I readjusted to make the carbs equal at closed throttle. When I operated the linkage by hand the left carb would hit the stop at full throttle, but then the right hand "slave" carb could still be pushed further to its hard stop - leaving up to about a 1/16" gap between the lever and synchronizing screw. Is there a way to adjust this linkage to make sure both carbs hit closed and full throttle at the same time? Or do I just sync 'em up at idle and not worry about it?