brianstj

The 38/38 has an idle jet on both barrels, no? How does the cut off solenoid work with this? Brian '72 2002

Just did this myself, and it was my thread that the diagram was added to The far outside bolt next to the oil pressure sender is the one that gets the special washer under the head of the bolt. No sealant or anything on that, but I used a thin smear of silicone on both sides of the gasket based on a couple different recommendations. The one thing that bit me was the rear head bolt on the drivers side (the one next to the oil pressure sender). There is oil pressure running through this hole, so make sure your head bolt and washer are perfect - no scratches, ridges, etc. If everything is perfect then you should not leak there, but I also ended up smearing some silicone on that washer as extra insurance. Brian '72 2002

I have searched through the forum to find information on potential causes dieseling, and I am still a little unsure what is really going to solve this. I am running a 38/38 DGES, Bosch blue coil (no ballast resistor), Pertronix, NGK BPR6ES plugs, distributor with vacuum module, timing was set to 25 degrees advance at 2700 RPM (per underhod sticker) with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged, and 91 octane Chevron gas. The car used to always diesel when I shut it off, and I attributed this to the carb not having an idle shut off solenoid + "some other issue" I just did a fresh rebuild, and the only things that have changed are a 292 cam, 9.5:1 pistons, 0.040 overbore. With the timing set statically at the first mark before TDC I did the 20 min. 2000 RPM cam break in run, and upon shutting down I got the old familiar dieseling. So we have Fuel+Air+Ignition happening when the key is shut off. Fuel and air are coming from the carb, so the question becomes, where is the ignition coming from? Hot plugs? Fuel combusting under compression? I believe I have the right heat range plugs and sufficient fuel octane. Many of the posts I have read point at timing as the major culprit - but what I don't understand is how this effects things once the ignition is cut off? Can anyone explain? I found one post pointing at Chevron gas - any validity to this? I thought about the option of an idle shut off solenoid, but then I am not sure if the 38/38 can run them and if this would just be masking some other issue? I also got some advise to lower the idle speed, and perhaps even the floats in the carb. I still need to do a once over on everything, set the timing while the car is running, and readjust the idle speed before I take the new engine out for its first drive. I just have a bad feeling that this is still going to be an issue. I could always just keep letting the clutch out after I shut it off to prevent tohe engine from turning, but if there is some issue going on that can be fixed, I would prefer to fix it. Brian '72 2002

Does removing the screw top from an NGK BPR6ES effectively remove the "R" and make it a BP6ES? And is that the right plug to be running? Brian '72 2002

I was informed that this particular bolt hole normally has oil pressure running through it. With good bolts/washers and proper torqing it stays sealed up. I had the washer installed flipped over from the previous installation - there was a little bit of a ring impression left from the bolt, and I had this side sitting on the head. I flipped the washer over and added a thin layer of black silicone to the washer for good measure (based on advice from a couple different sources). Everything seems fine now, but I will definitely keep an eye on it for a while. Another interesting thing I learned - if you are running ARP head studs instead of bolts, you have to seal the threads on that particular bolt. Brian '72 2002

My machinist informed me that the rear driver side head bolt hole normally has oil pressure running through it. I am getting a leak around the head bolt that is filling up the pockets next to the distributor housing. I was planning on putting some silicone around the head bolt washer. Any thoughts/experiences on this? Brian '72 2002

I have the special sealing washer in the correct location according to the diagram, no sealant/locker on any threads, Permatex black smeared on both sides of the housing gasket (cured >24 hours before start up), head bolt threads were clean & bone dry with a light coat of motor oil wiped on the bolt thread before insertion. Since I seem to be leaking out the top of the head bolt, I am not sure how the special sealing washer would change that? I have a couple new gaskets and sealing washers on order - anything I should do different on the next go around? Brian

I have the special sealing washer in the correct location according to the diagram, no sealant/locker on any threads, Permatex black smeared on both sides of the housing gasket (cured >24 hours before start up), head bolt threads were clean & bone dry with a light coat of motor oil wiped on the bolt thread before insertion. Since I seem to be leaking out the top of the head bolt, I am not sure how the special sealing washer would change that? I have a couple new gaskets and sealing washers on order - anything I should do different on the next go around? Brian

So do you put the sealer on the head bolt threads? Permatex grey hardening sealer work? Brian '72 2002

Thanks! I think I screwed up with the special seal washer. I have it on the outside of the housing, is it supposed to go inside to block oil to the head bolt hole? Also thank you for the advice on the distributor, I'll get it flipped around. Brian '72 2002

Hi All, I just finished assembling a fresh M10 engine and got it fired up for the first time. I have an oil leak that I am not quite sure what is going on with. The leak is at the back of the head and is pooling up against the distributor housing. The engine was only run for about 5 minutes, so there is quite a bit of oil leaking out between filling up those pockets and the amount that was dripped down on to the exhaust http://geocities.com/brianstj@att.net/02OilLeak.html My first suspicion was the valve cover, but I removed it and the gasket did not look like there had been any oil passing it. My next suspect was the distributor housing gasket, but on closer inspection I saw a very light oil trail running down the side of the head on the “uphill” side of the head bolt. This is leading me to think that there might be oil coming out from the head bolt. Is there any way pressurized oil can get in to that bolt hole? Anyone have any other suggestions or common things to look for? Thanks! Brian ’72 2002

I used a set of Integra seats that have a kinda square frame headrest (hollow in the middle). Not sure what year these came from - BUT, the stock 2002 seat rails bolt up to them if you redrill one hole in each rail. The seat adjustments work, they go back plenty far (I am 6'-4"), and there is no width or position issues. I think your biggest issue might be finding seats with nice upohlstery. I have 2 sets of cloth Integra seats, and they show some age (but I find them more comfortable than the Corbeaus in the E30!). I have never heard about the Integra rear seats. That might be something I have to look in to!