Jump to content

mbaze

Solex
  • Posts

    168
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by mbaze

  1. It's a horrible design. My '71 was like this when I bought it. The entire front and some of the driver's side was cracked. Bavarian Professionals down the road from you used to source the entire metal "boat" and replace the old with the new. Now they weld the existing part back in place when possible and install a new bracket for extra support that is supposed to eliminate the wiggle and make the whole unit stronger. It's expensive, though. Me, I just had my neighbor weld all the cracked areas. It's worked well so far.
  2. If you want to know what this stuff costs new, you can start here. But you'll save a bundle buying used. I recently bought two good condition fenders for $250/pair and a trunk lid for $60, all through the good people on this board. Michael
  3. Thanks all for the replies. I realize that no breathable car cover is going to be 100 percent waterproof. That's fine. But I want to minimize my car's exposure to overnight condensation and keep the surface rust in check. If the dew is going to seep through the cover onto the car (or build up underneath), then I'm not sure of the point of covering it in the first place, at least for that purpose.
  4. So I got a BavAuto car cover for Christmas. It's their "Ultimate Car Cover,'' which claims to provide "exceptional protection against rain, snow, dust, UV degradation and condensation.'' I was somewhat surprised to find that a) there was significant condensation/dew on the car this morning under the cover, and that the users guide that came with the cover said it is "not designed to be waterproof in rainy conditions.'' Since I park outside most of the time, I want a cover that will keep the dew off on cold mornings and keep the car dry in the rain. Is every cover going to let condensation develop on the car on cold mornings? And don't BavAuto claims about its Ultimate cover conflict with what's stated with the actual product?
  5. I don't have experience with 1600s, but the number is usually stamped on the metal housing near the top, as in this photo (though this is not a 1600/2002 distributor, it's very similar). Rub the housing with a rag or steel wool and it should reveal itself.
  6. BavAuto sent me balljoints without hardware as well. They shipped it out the next day. By the way, although the dealers and most suppliers will sell you 8.8 bolts with their hardware, the good folks at Barvarian Professionals in Berkeley, CA will highly recommend 10.9 or 12.9.
  7. Pretty much the only non-stock thing on my '71 is an aftermarket, electric, glass sunroof installed by a previous owner. I love it. I don't know if my car originally had a sunroof. But I imagine an installer could fit a new one on yours.
  8. It makes no difference to the alignment. The spacers were added to U.S. models to get the front headlights up to a govt. specified height.
  9. There's also this link, which has a good, close-up diagram of the top strut assembly. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,289061/
  10. Actually, new fenders are nearly $800 with tax and shipping if you get them through my local dealer.
  11. I'll be curious to see if this sells. There was a '73 Tii on eBay the other day (in Reno) that didn't even garner the reserve. Bidding topped out at $6,100. It wasn't restored, but looked to be in good condition. Tough times out there.
  12. No capping. That vapor needs to go somewhere. You can snip the hose in the engine compartment and just let it hang toward the ground, or as noted, vent it out of the trunk.
  13. Just make sure that when you put everything back together to string safety wire through the bottom three bolts of the strut housings. Otherwise, you might end up like this someday. Michael
  14. Some resources below. The second has individual parts that you can buy to save you labor and cutting. There is some disagreement about whether you can use a pre-cut driveshaft available from several sources, or if you should have you driveshaft custom cut and balanced. Others will know more than I. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/20/32/ http://www.racetep.com/5speed.html
  15. I emailed the guy. Nice guy, but he's not a DIYer, so he doesn't know anything about the head, including whether it has a cam or not. He has no receipts of the work done.
  16. Did you check the Haynes manual? I don't have one in front of me, but it has wiring diagrams for several different models.
  17. Anyone have a good condition, non-leaking steering box they are looking to get rid of? Prefer Bay Area pickup, if possible.
  18. Not a bad idea. Both my original bolts were bent and had to be cut off.
  19. The solution for me was jacking up the strut and clamping the sway bar and tension bar with a C-clamp. Then just tap the linkage bolt down with a hammer. The C-clamp is prone to slippage because of the rounded surfaces, so safety glasses are highly recommended when you put your face down there. Also, a little grease on the sway bar linkage bolt helps that final, bottom bushing go on. Note that when jacking up the strut, put a piece of soft wood on the jack top so as to not damage the control arm. And by the way, the Maximillian diagram clearly shows the cupped washers facing away from the bushings.
  20. The washers and bushings were just randomly slipped on the bolt to show the problem. Thanks all for the suggestions/tips. Happy Thanksgiving.
  21. I found a thread from a couple of years ago where someone suggested trimming each bushing by about a quarter inch. But I can't imagine that if I took this into a Bimmer shop, they'd do that. There has to be a common sense way to do this. Alas, Haynes and the shop manual are silent on this. More suggestions welcome (while I look for some clamps).
  22. Everything is the same size as the stock parts I took off—except for the bushings, which were much compressed. I had at least a half inch of extra thread on my original bolts.
  23. What am I missing here? I'm trying to install a BavAuto front sway bar bushing kit. Note in the pic below that with all four bushings on the bolt, there is no room for nuts, etc. And that's without the width of the sway bar and and control arm. What's the trick to getting these on? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...